VapingBad
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SX350J
Apr 10, 2015 13:45:51 GMT
Post by VapingBad on Apr 10, 2015 13:45:51 GMT
I never let a 510 stay gunked up I press "new coil/same coil" cos I reset the mod every day before first use by firing it without and attie attached to solve the issue. I find it mainly in tanks as opposed to drippers and I know that makes no sense at all Makes perfect sense, drippers would tend to have a more direct connection path and lest parts as thermal expansion cycles may affect connections between parts.
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Greigster
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Post by Greigster on Apr 10, 2015 13:55:41 GMT
Just did a test on mine after seeing yours letsavit and I also get a little charring, although not as bad as yours. Dry clean coil reading .18ohms at 20 Joules/watts. From 300f upto 460f in 20f increments, fire button held for 10 seconds at each temperature. Wisps of smoke from cotton at 400f and above.
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letsavit
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SX350J
Apr 10, 2015 14:06:12 GMT
Post by letsavit on Apr 10, 2015 14:06:12 GMT
Greigster 300f is nearly as dark as 400f.... Shouldn't be doing that...
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Greigster
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SX350J
Apr 10, 2015 14:32:46 GMT
Post by Greigster on Apr 10, 2015 14:32:46 GMT
Greigster 300f is nearly as dark as 400f.... Shouldn't be doing that... letsavitStrange that the 340, 360 and 380 are not as charred. I will make a new coil and re-test to see if that helps.
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letsavit
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Blue Plonker
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SX350J
Apr 10, 2015 14:41:47 GMT
Post by letsavit on Apr 10, 2015 14:41:47 GMT
Greigster 300f is nearly as dark as 400f.... Shouldn't be doing that... letsavitStrange that the 340, 360 and 380 are not as charred. I will make a new coil and re-test to see if that helps. You have the flask clone? Try on that as well for a comparision.
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Greigster
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Post by Greigster on Apr 10, 2015 15:14:13 GMT
@ bullgog New Coil, coming out at .164ohms. Vapor Flask Clone with 10 second fire at each temperature.
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letsavit
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SX350J
Apr 10, 2015 15:24:50 GMT
Post by letsavit on Apr 10, 2015 15:24:50 GMT
400f on the clone cottons mark is lighter than the SX at 300f.. The clone and DNA have been proven to be close enough, +-10f, that's way off
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blakey
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Post by blakey on Apr 10, 2015 15:43:48 GMT
I never let a 510 stay gunked up I press "new coil/same coil" cos I reset the mod every day before first use by firing it without and attie attached to solve the issue. I find it mainly in tanks as opposed to drippers and I know that makes no sense at all Makes perfect sense, drippers would tend to have a more direct connection path and lest parts as thermal expansion cycles may affect connections between parts. Being acutely aware of expansion and connections I double wrap the wires to the posts and tighten the connections up hard, then after a few puffs I'll re-tighten the connections. I try to never use any adjustable 510 and try to make sure that it's screwed right in on dripper or tank to remove as much resistance instability as I can from the attie itself. But when it all spends the night cooling down the parts may contract at different speeds for different metals and thicknesses more on a tank than a dripper. Whatever the cause, re-calibrating the resistance each day resolves things for me.
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sydsut
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SX350J
Apr 10, 2015 15:46:45 GMT
Post by sydsut on Apr 10, 2015 15:46:45 GMT
Has anyone tried these experiments with rayon instead of cotton, or for that matter any of the TC mods with rayon?
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Greigster
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SX350J
Apr 10, 2015 15:49:40 GMT
Post by Greigster on Apr 10, 2015 15:49:40 GMT
letsavitHere with same coil as VF Clone. No marking of the cotton until 400f. Second Photo is with the two wicks lined up (top SX350, bottom VF Clone) and not a huge difference between the charring.
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letsavit
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SX350J
Apr 10, 2015 15:50:54 GMT
Post by letsavit on Apr 10, 2015 15:50:54 GMT
Makes perfect sense, drippers would tend to have a more direct connection path and lest parts as thermal expansion cycles may affect connections between parts. Being acutely aware of expansion and connections I double wrap the wires to the posts and tighten the connections up hard, then after a few puffs I'll re-tighten the connections. I try to never use any adjustable 510 and try to make sure that it's screwed right in on dripper or tank to remove as much resistance instability as I can from the attie itself. But when it all spends the night cooling down the parts may contract at different speeds for different metals and thicknesses more on a tank than a dripper. Whatever the cause, re-calibrating the resistance each day resolves things for me. Entering and locking the ohms manually would save about 99.9% of my issues with the DNA40 I have today... Back to the SX350j, where was I....oh yea it's a POS....
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letsavit
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SX350J
Apr 10, 2015 15:53:53 GMT
Post by letsavit on Apr 10, 2015 15:53:53 GMT
letsavitHere with same coil as VF Clone. No marking of the cotton until 400f. Second Photo is with the two wicks lined up (top SX350, bottom VF Clone) and not a huge difference between the charring. I'll do mine again, give me half hour..
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Greigster
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SX350J
Apr 10, 2015 15:56:13 GMT
Post by Greigster on Apr 10, 2015 15:56:13 GMT
I have my setting at Standard and this boosts the initial temperature to above the temperature set. At 560f it was yo-yoing between "595f" and down to "Dry Coil"
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letsavit
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SX350J
Apr 10, 2015 16:22:56 GMT
Post by letsavit on Apr 10, 2015 16:22:56 GMT
0.14 ohms read by both, reader 0.15, organic jap cotton. SX mini on soft. DNA40 20watts @450f SXMini 20 joules @450f Results about 150f out.
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Greigster
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SX350J
Apr 10, 2015 16:56:58 GMT
Post by Greigster on Apr 10, 2015 16:56:58 GMT
Have you tried it in centigrade? Just wondering if that would have any effect. 450 f = 232c Edit : the vape seems the same in centigrade so probably no difference to the charring of the wick!
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