SX350J

[letsavit]

Apr 10, 2015 16:56:58 GMT Greigster said:

Have you tried it in centigrade? Just wondering if that would have any effect.

450 f = 232c


Edit : the vape seems the same in centigrade so probably no difference to the charring of the wick!

Had enough mate, if it was £50 I'll try vaping at 270-300f because it is doing some temp control but £170.....this ones not calibrated right and going back in the box.

Edit..wonder if I can flash it on the PC? haven't got time ATM...

[VapingBad]

Apr 10, 2015 15:46:45 GMT sydsut said:

Has anyone tried these experiments with rayon instead of cotton, or for that matter any of the TC mods with rayon?

I did in October, IIRC I got bored at about 500 F as I would never vape that hot and didn't get any scorching that was visible with the naked eye.

[VapingBad]

blakey for my sins the R doubled on the DNA for the first time in ages while I was out, that clone origenny deck was the prob, moving the deck back and forth and a good ultrasonic clean and back to 0.11 ohm. But it never normally goes off overnight, my point being, if in fact I have one, is it's mainly an atty issue (mod quality to) that was not a problem until we needed resistances this low. For the uninitiated that's not Evolv, YiHi or anybodies fault, it's just physics nickel is by a long way the most suitable wire for temp sensing and it low resistance.

[decoy]

is it just me or do most of these so called temp controll mods not work properly
i dont think anybody has tc nailed down yet but evolve seem to be getting thee and this mystery v3 flask clone that robby did the group by for
i did sooo lust after the sx mini but with added temp cont it might of been my bday pressy to self icon_shoppingm

but for once i didnt jump in and waited and i still havent got a tc mod
what is the point of tc if its to stop wicks burning and hide how badly set up an atty is (dave to his mates in the pub"with this temp cont i can run my kayfun at 40 watts"athow we know if the tc works it will drop the real time watts to around 15 if its setup well)in which case im out i likes fiddling to get things right

if its to stop me vapeing bad stuffs as in over cooking to juice and that lovely dry hit on a full on dripper(yummy not)then i may show some more interest in it ,but i think the resistances for tc are far to low allowing for smaller probs to become a nightmare it just all seems to fiddly for not knowing what your atty can do(ie my erl will happily run at 15 watts on a 1.2 ohm coil and if i take it up to 16 watts nasty things happen

im not going to buy any mods with tc until they change the way it works

i do feal for any one who gave in to the sx mini,s charms i still sorta do but im going to wait for a wee bit

[Get Off My Cloud]

I get the feeling TC at least in the manner it's being attempted so far is always going to be more hassle than it's worth, too many variables and instabilities to be consistent.
And lets face it at this point we don't even know really if it's necessary.

[blakey]

Apr 11, 2015 2:05:56 GMT VapingBad said:

blakey for my sins the R doubled on the DNA for the first time in ages while I was out, that clone origenny deck was the prob, moving the deck back and forth and a good ultrasonic clean and back to 0.11 ohm. But it never normally goes off overnight, my point being, if in fact I have one, is it's mainly an atty issue (mod quality to) that was not a problem until we needed resistances this low. For the uninitiated that's not Evolv, YiHi or anybodies fault, it's just physics nickel is by a long way the most suitable wire for temp sensing and it low resistance.

I figured early in the game that the attie and its connections were the cause of most issues with this technology.
In the main I have no issues with it and I mainly use it in drippers, its great to know that you aren't going to burn the wick when you haven't got enough juice on it.
I still mostly wire up tanks with kanthal, my style of vaping doesn't see more than 9-10w for the most part so temp limiting in a tank isn't really needed.

[robby]

TC/TP is okay for the likes of people like me who like to know what`s going on and spend a few hours adjusting, fiddling and testing etc, but to me it is overhyped. I squonk or drip mostly at about 15 watts and have no problem knowing when to top up. I might keep a wick going for a week and generally when I relent and change it, it`s relatively unmarked when I take it out of the coil. I was lucky to find a good TC clone for £50 ish. Little difference between it and the Evolve DNA performance wise. An experienced vaper really doesn`t need a lot of protection against nasties and dry burns, for me it means the flavour is muting a bit so top it up. I haven`t used the DNA40 clone for about a week, nothing wrong with it, it`s hard to drag myself away from squonking at about 15 watts. TC has all been part of the "hobby" aspect of vaping for me. Keeps the old grey matter exercised

[Deleted]

I got a DNA40 device last November and I hadn't used kanthal since then, so I decided to take a step back in time and coil up a Spheroid and use it on my Semovar, a set up I used most back then.

At about 9w with a 1.2ohm coil I used to think it was a flavoursome and satisfying vape, not so now, I found it lacking. My style of vaping changed with the DNA40 and the Spheroid with it's restrictive air flow is redundant.

The first 2-3 weeks with the DNA40 were frustrating to say the least, and I got very close to throwing it as far as I could. It is idiosyncratic and can be frustrating, as everyone found out, but once sussed my other devices don't get a look in. I now have 3 of them and they do play up now and again but, it's easily sorted and I'm prepared to put up with that for the superior vape I'm getting.

[Deleted]

I seem to have had a different experience using TC on various devices ( Both originals and clone) at first I had a few problems with the Vaper Shark Rdna40 ( mainly my own fault due to not following basic instructions, ie changing the atty whilst the coil is still warm is not recommended )

And initially a few issues reading the coil resistance on the Vapour Flask clone ( again my fault and easily remedied by rebuilding or checking all the connections on the build being used)

Apart from those initial issues, all have performed as I would have expected, no dry hits, no burning cotton and they are the mods that I switch between daily.

What I have done, and possibly there is something in this, is that I use either the big Sub tank or Mini with the OCC Ni 200 coils , last time I had any resistance issue etc was on one of my own builds months ago.

I finally recieved my Yihi SX350 M series yesterday, had a wee read of the set up, popped a Subtank and Ni200 Occ coil on, and Bob's your Uncle working fine at 22 joules in TC, set at 420f.

Happy vaping

Cheers

[macmagoo]

Looking at the photo's the DNA looks underpowered given that cotton chars at 420F and the Yihi result looks more realistic because it has started to burn the cotton at 30 above the char point. I own both the Yihi M class and the RDNA40. I personally would not compare them like this because the chips are probably using different algorithms to measure what is going on. At the moment my Kayfun 4 is working on both devices perfectly.

[letsavit]

Apr 11, 2015 9:59:18 GMT macmagoo said:

Looking at the photo's the DNA looks underpowered given that cotton chars at 420F and the Yihi result looks more realistic because it has started to burn the cotton at 30 above the char point. I own both the Yihi M class and the RDNA40. I personally would not compare them like this because the chips are probably using different algorithms to measure what is going on. At the moment my Kayfun 4 is working on both devices perfectly.

Mines charring at 300f, possibly below, so is greigsters. That's 120f out, can live with 30f.... My cotton I use is Ken do with bacon and eggs... seriously though I have purchased a few types of cotton and this seems to char a little higher than boots stuff that's why I use it.

mines being returned, I'm sticking with the DNA...

[Deleted]

car147 macmagoo you both made positive comments on the use and working of the DNA40, but as far as the quality of vape goes do you think it's worthwhile or an over hyped device and TC/preheat is not really needed?

[macmagoo]

Apr 11, 2015 10:18:33 GMT @scooby said:

car147 macmagoo you both made positive comments on the use and working of the DNA40, but as far as the quality of vape goes do you think it's worthwhile or an over hyped device and TC/preheat is not really needed?

I think we will know a lot more about the benefits, if any, of temperature limiting once some of the studies are complete and the information is released. I don't have any issues with it at the moment so we will have to wait and see.

[macmagoo]

This is new technology and if I did not like the TL I would just switch back to Kanthal. If Yihi gets lots of feedback saying that their TL is not accurate enough I am sure they will sort it out with a Firmware upgrade which you will not get with the Evolve chip because it is not user updatable. I think the Yihi SX Mini is one of the best mods around at the moment mainly because I think their chip is a lot better than the Evolve equivalent.

[VapingBad]

Apr 11, 2015 9:59:18 GMT macmagoo said:

Looking at the photo's the DNA looks underpowered given that cotton chars at 420F and the Yihi result looks more realistic because it has started to burn the cotton at 30 above the char point. I own both the Yihi M class and the RDNA40. I personally would not compare them like this because the chips are probably using different algorithms to measure what is going on. At the moment my Kayfun 4 is working on both devices perfectly.

But Greigster's photos show the YiHi charring cotton at 300 F over 100 F below the char point, are you referring to some other photos?

I read on PotV that the YiHi is limited to 50 J and Richard form mod maker has said Temp mode is only currently supported on a single battery, but couldn't imagine anyone wanting to put an extension on the mod.