Cammy
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Post by Cammy on May 17, 2015 6:39:20 GMT
Hi. My istick has recently stopped reading that any tank is attached when snugly fitted.
I've noticed if I loosen it ever so slightly then it's ok. This has gotten progressively worse to the point it only recognises my tank when it's so loosely attached it wobbles which in turn causes the reading the fluctuate between sub 1 ohms and 3 ohms on a 1.7 ohm coil.
This seems really weird as usually it would be the other way - over tightening would've caused the pins further apart causing them not to touch. The only way I am getting a vape is by really loosening the tank. It's so loose that I have to try and hold it in place with a finger whilst I press the button with my thumb.
Anyone ever experienced a problem like this and have any suggestions to solve it? Or is my istick done(I've had it since November/December and it's been a top performer since the day it arrived).
It's not my tanks because they fire easily on my MVP...
Anyone any ideas?
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Greg
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Post by Greg on May 17, 2015 7:45:45 GMT
The 510 connector will be loose internally and shorting out, I assume it's the 20w watt I stick ?
You can try and fix it, see the link to a repair in my sig. If you don't fancy the repair option then bin it and buy a 30watt is tick, the 510 on those are far far superior and very unlikely to suffer the same fate.
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Cammy
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Post by Cammy on May 17, 2015 7:51:07 GMT
Yeah mate, it's the 20. I'll check out your repair guide but have ordered another from FT as feared it was on its last legs. Thanks for yer help fella
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 17, 2015 7:55:32 GMT
I would say that the grommet around the centre pin has split or perished and when you screw an atty on it is shorting out or it is pushing the centre pin down and its touching somewhere on the inside, but suspect its no1 above. If you have a soldering iron, the easiest way to repair it would be CAREFULLY remove the topcap which is not easy as the screw heads are like chocolate, disconnect the red wire from the centre pin, replace the grommet, an insulator from an old kanger head is ideal for this, re solder the red wire to the centre pin and replace the top cap.
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Cammy
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Post by Cammy on May 17, 2015 8:25:44 GMT
Unfortunately I don't own a soldering iron and haven't used one since school.. Looks like I'll just need to go back to the vamo and MVP until my order from FT arrives. Thanks guys
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 17, 2015 9:15:50 GMT
If you have a drive and have a car, take a trip up the M8 and I'll do it for you.
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Cammy
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Post by Cammy on May 17, 2015 9:38:18 GMT
Very generous offer striker42, just how far up the m8 are you mate? Short term I've noticed if I prise the centre pin up it kinda works for a couple of hours as it used to. I have numerous other batteries as back ups, even a istick mini but none pack as big a punch as the istick. Possibly the best 20ish quid I've spent in a long time...
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 17, 2015 10:06:54 GMT
I live in Harthill Cammy, so wil obviously depend where in Glasgow you live as to how far it will be.
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Greg
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Post by Greg on May 17, 2015 10:17:33 GMT
Yeah mate, it's the 20. I'll check out your repair guide but have ordered another from FT as feared it was on its last legs. Thanks for yer help fella If you've ordered another 20 and it's not too late, cancel it and order a 30.
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Cammy
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Post by Cammy on May 17, 2015 13:28:38 GMT
I have but it hasn't been shipped yet. I'll get on the case straight away...
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ozy
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Post by ozy on May 17, 2015 22:30:33 GMT
try putting a rubber seal around the base of the tank get one the right thickness so as you screw your tank on press the fire button and check when it reads your coil as your screwing it on and you will want it to connect at the same time as the seal stops you screwing it down anymore this will stop the wobble hopefully
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