VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Jun 23, 2015 22:49:44 GMT
It was at the higher wattages that they all go way out......the SX and the DNA40 were way over and the Evic chip way under From a usability, safety.....or any other perspective.......is is better that it's over or under? Are you talking about temperature? When he put Ti on two mods that don't support it, Ti will only cahnge resistance with temp 60% as much as Ni so of course they were out. As far as safty goes the temp reading being out is only a safety concern if you have something in your liquid that should not go above a specific temperature, but I don't think there is anything yet identified, we know that VG produces Arcoleine over 200 c but when mixed it is not likely to happen to any concerning during vaping. I guess what happened with the Evic is that when it jumped out of temp mode it used the stored value of r to work out the voltage needed to provided the watts and this voltage was too high and amounted to far more watts. This is just poor design of the basic building blocks of the board and if it regulated watts in a better way it could not happen.
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letsavit
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Post by letsavit on Jun 23, 2015 22:49:58 GMT
This thread still going on...!
The temp on the DNA is way more accurate and consistent compared to the SX. The SX temp is work in progress for me ATM...but it's seems dependant on the atty, coil and joules set.
The DNA I set the temp I want to run at, typically around 400f then watch the watts it's using and set 5 watts above.
The SX I have had to learn another way, for now.....I up the joules until I get the vape I want and watch the temp, I then set the temp at what it's maxing at.... That's been anywhere from 300-380f.
On the DNA I can have a Kayfun at 40 watts (25 over what it needs to run at 400f) and the vape will be the same but I set the 5 watts above for protection with regards to what we are discussing, don't want a 40 watt burnt hit if it drops out. The SX, the joules and temp seem more interlinked. Now I could say it can't drop the power as quick as the DNA to control the temp but it's giving me a bloody good vape at the moment so I'll give it the benefit of doubt for now......
Edit...both I can suck the tanks dry on kayfuns with steel sections so they are both doing thier job....
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Jun 23, 2015 22:54:25 GMT
Only tagged you letsavit as Busardo measured them both within a couple of percent accuracy and we both had a different experience, more about his testing methods than anything else.
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letsavit
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Post by letsavit on Jun 23, 2015 22:54:49 GMT
No adjusting down!!! Like an very old digital watch where you have to go all the way round again. He has got the jumping out of temp control all wrong, the watts won't matter (unless you set them to something silly) they will cause it to act as a non temp sensing mode and not cause any nasties in general, but they could if you take short cuts designing your board and software. The problem is lack of real time power regulation and he goes on to tar the Evolvs with the same brush and all of them since the Darwin have can not do what he described. What is real time power regulation: using the product of current and voltage to control watts. What do other mods do: measure the resistance and pick a voltage to fire at, so if the resistance changes the wattage changes because the voltage is set. (This is also why I say the SX seems to do temp limiting in a silly way IMO and not because I am an Evolv fan boy) EVOLV FAN BOY
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Jun 23, 2015 23:00:00 GMT
Don't blame me letsavit, it's the way they did the electronics you know what I'm like about quality audio any system is only as good as it's weak spot and this not keeping track of the resistance thing is just the bean counters running the design department IMO. Or to put it another way
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letsavit
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Post by letsavit on Jun 23, 2015 23:00:17 GMT
Only tagged you letsavit as Busardo measured them both within a couple of percent accuracy and we both had a different experience, more about his testing methods than anything else. Well I wouldn't trust his gear then, I can taste normal, burnt and fecking burnt and both my mini SXs can run no where near DNA temps, they're well down it. 300f today. I know I can stick this build on a DNA and will need to be in the 400s to get this vape.
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hogweed
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Post by hogweed on Jun 24, 2015 14:36:07 GMT
I saw a video today that the batteries could be an issue on them I've had one for a few days now. Who cares about whether they are 4500 or 5000 mah honestly? The thing has plenty of grunt and the batteries last for ages on a full charge. Apparently P. Busardo has a MAJOR problem in that it jumped out of TC while he was vaping at high wattage and he copped a mouthful of hot splutter! I sure hope mine doesn't, and hasn't so far. One thing I have found is, (this is my first TC mod), that the nickel coils by different makers vary from great to crap! The Kanger OCC Nickel Coils are SHIT! I got 2 packs of 5 with mine and have gone through 4 in a few days. They work fine at first, then quickly deteriorate. The vapour production just goes WAY DOWN and even setting it at MAX everything it is still mediocre. So I tried a nicikel build on the RBA section of the Sub Tank Mini and it is GREAT! Set to 250 celsius at 35 watts and it is almost too strong for me, so plenty of headroom there. Has anybody ELSE had a bad experience with Kanger Nickel OCC prebuilt coils for that Sub Tank or Sub Tank Mini? Please share as according to Rip Tripper his coil lasted him for weeks and was still clean as a whistle! My first 3 were so gunked up with shit (I used the same liquid on the RBA and other nickel coils) and very disappointed KangerTech!!!
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drunkenbum
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Post by drunkenbum on Jun 24, 2015 14:39:39 GMT
I saw a video today that the batteries could be an issue on them I've had one for a few days now. Who cares about whether they are 4500 or 5000 mah honestly? The thing has plenty of grunt and the batteries last for ages on a full charge. Apparently P. Busardo has a MAJOR problem in that it jumped out of TC while he was vaping at high wattage and he copped a mouthful of hot splutter! I sure hope mine doesn't, and hasn't so far. One thing I have found is, (this is my first TC mod), that the nickel coils by different makers vary from great to crap! The Kanger OCC Nickel Coils are SHIT! I got 2 packs of 5 with mine and have gone through 4 in a few days. They work fine at first, then quickly deteriorate. The vapour production just goes WAY DOWN and even setting it at MAX everything it is still mediocre. So I tried a nicikel build on the RBA section of the Sub Tank Mini and it is GREAT! Set to 250 celsius at 35 watts and it is almost too strong for me, so plenty of headroom there. Has anybody ELSE had a bad experience with Kanger Nickel OCC prebuilt coils for that Sub Tank or Sub Tank Mini? Please share as according to Rip Tripper his coil lasted him for weeks and was still clean as a whistle! My first 3 were so gunked up with shit (I used the same liquid on the RBA and other nickel coils) and very disappointed KangerTech!!! What i saw was not to do with whether they are 4500mah or 5000mah, its to do with the way that they have used lipo batteries without advertising it and some concerns over whether the device has a balance board to charge safely
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Post by phatfil on Jun 24, 2015 14:48:25 GMT
@bogweed my experience with the kanger OCC heads and NI200 builds on the rta base is opposite to yours,, my occ heads have stood a weeks vaping so far and are going strong, while My Ni200 rta builds have been pants.. I could use all and any Ni200 build tips you have and as im dim pics help a lot.. Cheers
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Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on Jun 24, 2015 14:53:28 GMT
Did PB not examine the connections on the batteries, just went in and criticised the lower than spec capacity. Anyone with any knowledge seeing multiple cells would examine the connections to see if they were series or parallel, balance charged or not. Especially if someone wants to make it a safety concern and become the 'White Knight' on a mission to save us all. He's not electrically qualified is he?? If he is he wants sacking!! hogweed, I recall seeing a few posts criticising the quality of the Kanger OCC heads - seem to be a bit hit and miss depending on where they are from. If they're from China they'll be more miss!!
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Post by DiscoDes on Jun 24, 2015 14:58:23 GMT
P Busardo went through the battery thing, the 1500 mAh (per cell) rating is at 30A discharge current and this mod does not need anything near that. Basically at lower outputs the batteries capacity is higher. He charged his device and used a meter and the device capacity came in at over 5100 mAh. Also you only need balanced charging for cells connected in SERIES the ones in this are in parallel and according to P Busardo this is OK. I really don't think that an experienced manufacturer would take this risk of not using the correct charging circuitry in one of their products. I have bought the kit, this includes the matched Mega One atomiser and the reviews I've seen when the device is used with this atomiser there are no problems, in fact the reviewers have been very pleased with this combination (Rip Tripper, Dave Dorn etc). Problems seem to arise when people use different atomisers and coils, when P busardo had problems Joyetech told him to use the Mega One atomiser and coils and when he did this the "problems" disappeared! His beef was that in his opinion you should be able to use any atomiser on the device. But as pointed out by VapingBad at very low resistances which are needed for TC the margins on getting the coils and connections perfect are slim, 0.15 ohms is not much at all and stability of a build will be a major factor in the coils efficacy. (phew)
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Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on Jun 24, 2015 15:11:08 GMT
Thanks DiscoDes. Good to here the right info and not insinuations and interpretations. 30Amps per cell would give a potential 90Amps, so PB did the right thing and tested at lower, and Joyetech can't be criticised. I'm also agreed that the wrong atties and more often pilot error causes so many problems with TC. As I pointed out earlier one guy spent 2 days trolling a good thread on this mod only to realise he was wrong when he tried premade heads and not microcoils. Vaping is a learning process, that should be done stage by stage. Jumping up a few levels often leads to frustration and anger. Dammit I gotta get home and watch some of these vids, don't have the luxury of broadband out in the country (read portacabin in a farmer's field).
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blakey
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Post by blakey on Jun 24, 2015 16:02:03 GMT
The initial ruck was over the use of multiple lipo batteries fitted without a balancer for charging When in parallel the batteries are self leveling and require no balance board When in series you absolutely must have a balancer or a very good battery charging bag and a tin hat The evic has its batteries in parallel and are therefor of no concern The dna200 when its released will also use multiple lipo cells but in order to achieve the 200w the batteries will need to be fitted in series and a balance board is in the spec and will be fitted. With regards to temperature control, the sx board and the dna board operate differently to each other and provide greatly different readings- why now then, when we have another board that provides different readings to the first two do we suddenly start panning it It's all very simple, experiment and find out the temperature setting that burns your cotton, that'll be your benchmark- then make sure that you adjust to taste keeping the point at which your cotton burnt as a maximum setting- adjust to taste for all settings below that benchmark The only good thing that I can see coming from all this rubbish is that Joyetech may just drop the prices in a bid to boost sales due to bad publicity.
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tim
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Post by tim on Jun 24, 2015 21:55:21 GMT
I already ordered one blakey, and I agree very much with what you have said. But I hope the price doesn't come down....... I wanna be unique.....
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Post by DiscoDes on Jun 26, 2015 7:23:01 GMT
More from Dave Dorn on VTTV last night, he did a coil the with Titanium look at the Video Below from 48:15
He also talks about the 30w "Boost" when you press the button, look here at 54:10 and what you need to do when you swap coils.
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