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Post by letsavit on Jul 29, 2015 0:37:09 GMT
John answered in 3 mins they plan a protection module for 2 cells so you could use a cradle with that. Got that keystone holder with fuses here, think it be too big anyhow and prob best let windows do his own thing.... Lipos on plugs anyhow, isn't it? So easy enough to replace and not like my only mod when charging... John reply on 2 cells "common" "form factor" maybe 200 watts was a little excessive....
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letsavit
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Post by letsavit on Jul 29, 2015 0:39:49 GMT
You can turn of temp protection and show temp in main menu I see... Still a big sequence for adjustment for us temp only guys...not the end of the world I only typically do it once.... they're getting there..
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Post by VapingBad on Jul 29, 2015 0:43:02 GMT
John answered in 3 mins they plan a protection module for 2 cells so you could use a cradle with that. Got that keystone holder with fuses here, think it be too big anyhow and prob best let windows do his own thing.... Lipos on plugs anyhow, isn't it? So easy enough to replace and not like my only mod when charging... John reply on 2 cells "common" "form factor" maybe 200 watts was a little excessive.... 133 W in 2 cell with LiPo/Li/IMR, 100 W with LiFePo4, 133 W plenty for my 36 W with 120 W pre-heat, but a little light in the loafers for the pre-heat for 70 W + IMO, but flat 133 W will still have more balls than the 150 W + mods out there ATM.
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Post by VapingBad on Jul 29, 2015 0:46:17 GMT
You can turn of temp protection and show temp in main menu I see... Still a big sequence for adjustment for us temp only guys...not the end of the world I only typically do it once.... they're getting there.. There was a request to be able to wet it up to have the temp adjustment for the main up/down buttons, it works for your atties now, but you could be in for a shock if you put a big dual coil build on and get loads more watts than you wanted.
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letsavit
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Post by letsavit on Jul 29, 2015 0:49:18 GMT
Got that keystone holder with fuses here, think it be too big anyhow and prob best let windows do his own thing.... Lipos on plugs anyhow, isn't it? So easy enough to replace and not like my only mod when charging... John reply on 2 cells "common" "form factor" maybe 200 watts was a little excessive.... 133 W in 2 cell with LiPo/Li/IMR, 100 W with LiFePo4, 133 W plenty for my 36 W with 120 W pre-heat, but a little light in the loafers for the pre-heat for 70 W + IMO, but flat 133 W will still have more balls than the 150 W + mods out there ATM. I stick with a full fat 200watts from @windows then for first one... Lipo ... I'll see what hindsight brings but until then I don't think I need anymore than 70watts for my builds.
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letsavit
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Post by letsavit on Jul 29, 2015 0:51:11 GMT
You can turn of temp protection and show temp in main menu I see... Still a big sequence for adjustment for us temp only guys...not the end of the world I only typically do it once.... they're getting there.. There was a request to be able to wet it up to have the temp adjustment for the main up/down buttons, it works for your atties now, but you could be in for a shock if you put a big dual coil build on and get loads more watts than you wanted. Yea still want to limit the watts for protection, especially with 200....!! just that to be the secondary press fire buttons five times menu, kinda flip them.
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Post by VapingBad on Jul 29, 2015 0:56:12 GMT
The big pre-heat is great letsavit (it stops at 100 F below your temp), I notice a good difference to the DNA40 and it makes the Kingxin flask feel like Cloupor Mini (looking at my watch and sh1t waiting for it to get warm). Look at the 200 watts as future proofing, I have lost count of the times I have read we don't need that much power since mods went to 20 W.
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Post by VapingBad on Jul 29, 2015 1:00:26 GMT
There was a request to be able to wet it up to have the temp adjustment for the main up/down buttons, it works for your atties now, but you could be in for a shock if you put a big dual coil build on and get loads more watts than you wanted. Yea still want to limit the watts for protection, especially with 200....!! just that to be the secondary press fire buttons five times menu, kinda flip them. I tend to stick to a temp and adjust the watts, but remember this has 8 profiles hold up+down for 2 secs then press up twice and you have changed profile. The profile can have different wire, pre-heat, a screen shoot will be quicker
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letsavit
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Post by letsavit on Jul 29, 2015 1:24:40 GMT
The big pre-heat is great letsavit (it stops at 100 F below your temp), I notice a good difference to the DNA40 and it makes the Kingxin flask feel like Cloupor Mini (looking at my watch and sh1t waiting for it to get warm). Look at the 200 watts as future proofing, I have lost count of the times I have read we don't need that much power since mods went to 20 W. We will see, like you I slagged if the mini m class when I first got it, didn't think it could do temp control at all because it was so out, still is but quite like it now....somehow seems to push out more from my kayfuns at times, still not sure how... Evolv will always have my respect for bringing this tech to existing, very clever...you know my views on this board, 200watts, lipos and not focusing on temp "control" was not the way forwards for me, lower ohms and the software, yes....but I'm just one user with many to please...now it's only fair to (try*) not comment until I have one in hand to add or take back...let's see Had a browse of their forum the other day, all reads very time consuming, they going release some sort of instructions for the main useful features you guys are finding? Edit.. Crossed posts..yes I got some reading to do when I get one...
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Post by VapingBad on Jul 29, 2015 1:37:37 GMT
The big pre-heat is great letsavit (it stops at 100 F below your temp), I notice a good difference to the DNA40 and it makes the Kingxin flask feel like Cloupor Mini (looking at my watch and sh1t waiting for it to get warm). Look at the 200 watts as future proofing, I have lost count of the times I have read we don't need that much power since mods went to 20 W. We will see, like you I slagged if the mini m class when I first got it, didn't think it could do temp control at all because it was so out, still is but quite like it now....somehow seems to push out more from my kayfuns at times, still not sure how... Evolv will always have my respect for bringing this tech to existing, very clever...you know my views on this board, 200watts, lipos and not focusing on temp "control" was not the way forwards for me, lower ohms and the software, yes....but I'm just one user with many to please...now it's only fair to (try*) not comment until I have one in hand to add or take back...let's see Had a browse of their forum the other day, all reads very time consuming, they going release some sort of instructions for the main useful features you guys are finding? Edit.. Crossed posts..yes I got some reading to do when I get one... I always knew the SX did limit temp, just way off, but the main deal breakers were no pre-heat and that strange pulsed output. TBH the YiHi was a massive disappointment I really wanted to to be good and the more I think about it the more I realise the gulf in quality between the two in terms of electronic design and component quality. EG most of their boards have very big home made toroidal inductors (big coil round graphite ring) and even the DNA clones use better shielded inductors (largest square grey blocks). And if the pulsed output in temp mode is desirable why didn't they use it for kanthal? I could go on There is an inter active tutorial for the softwareE: like the new avatar letsavit is that your dog?
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letsavit
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Post by letsavit on Jul 29, 2015 1:48:44 GMT
We will see, like you I slagged if the mini m class when I first got it, didn't think it could do temp control at all because it was so out, still is but quite like it now....somehow seems to push out more from my kayfuns at times, still not sure how... Evolv will always have my respect for bringing this tech to existing, very clever...you know my views on this board, 200watts, lipos and not focusing on temp "control" was not the way forwards for me, lower ohms and the software, yes....but I'm just one user with many to please...now it's only fair to (try*) not comment until I have one in hand to add or take back...let's see Had a browse of their forum the other day, all reads very time consuming, they going release some sort of instructions for the main useful features you guys are finding? Edit.. Crossed posts..yes I got some reading to do when I get one... I always knew the SX did limit temp, just way off, but the main deal breakers were no pre-heat and that strange pulsed output. TBH the YiHi was a massive disappointment I really wanted to to be good and the more I think about it the more I realise the gulf in quality between the two in terms of electronic design and component quality. EG most of their boards have very big home made toroidal inductors (big coil round graphite ring) and even the DNA clones use better shielded inductors (largest square grey blocks). And the pulsed output, it is desirable to have that why didn't they use it for kanthal? I could go on There is an inter active tutorial for the softwareSometimes it better to not understand fully what's going on and learn your own work arounds... That screen shot makes sense, save a few atties, upload then you're off... Doing wire curves, battery monitoring etc. not so much...expect that done for me without intervention when buying the latest chip.....but that's personal to me I suppose, software is a work tool....certainly doesn't feel like a "hobby" sitting in front of software ...! Edit... not my dog but love me Bulldogs...turned up when I googled "lost vape epetite" bored of blue willy thing now..!
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Post by VapingBad on Jul 29, 2015 1:59:38 GMT
If you buy a mod you never need to run the software as the mod maker should have run set up the case and battery details before shipping.
Almost everyone will just upload the wire curves from SteamEngine or the wire vendor, it is all quick & easy just use what you want and ignore the rest. I go in change one or two things press upload to device and am out 10 seconds later. Teh geek bits are very useful for finding faults with builds, atties & batteries or at more detailed level seeing how the different settings effect the output and load of good stuff you can happily ignore.
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Post by VapingBad on Jul 29, 2015 9:26:03 GMT
The fw (whole software 51 MB) wit 2S battery support is available now link, this is pre-release so not fully feild tested yet.
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Post by phatfil on Jul 29, 2015 15:40:15 GMT
Ive been playing with internet of things and the didy programmable esp8266 chips, and was thinking mmmmmmmmm had a quick look at the datasheet which seemed to indicate the board uses a 9v operating voltage?? im sure i read that wrong?, and i couldnt see any solderpads giving access to the RX and Tx lines prior to the usb encoding chip? as a total numpty when it comes to electronics is there a 3.5v +ve feed on the board and is it possible to access the pre usb tx and rx lines?? as if so why not broadcast the vape info to the cloud too hehe
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Post by VapingBad on Jul 29, 2015 15:47:18 GMT
Ive been playing with internet of things and the didy programmable esp8266 chips, and was thinking mmmmmmmmm had a quick look at the datasheet which seemed to indicate the board uses a 9v operating voltage?? im sure i read that wrong?, and i couldnt see any solderpads giving access to the RX and Tx lines prior to the usb encoding chip? as a total numpty when it comes to electronics is there a 3.5v +ve feed on the board and is it possible to access the pre usb tx and rx lines?? as if so why not broadcast the vape info to the cloud too hehe It's 9 V as the power is routed through the battery balance & management IC, but the dropped it down to 6 V for 2S operation. It is buck only regulation which is why it is 97 % efficient. But as you say the logic circuit will be at usual levels.
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