VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Jul 16, 2015 11:13:19 GMT
With a dripper, it is going to be changing all the time as you vape from "just filled" to "needing filled" as the juice flow is going to be reducing slightly all the time? VapingBadI would think so, Evolv said they were surprised that they found in the original development that pauses in inhaling caused the biggest raises in temp. I think one reason for cleaner flavour is avoiding cooking the liquid and the little bit of residue that leaves on the coil even those these pauses/variations may be very short. letsavit are you saying that heat and temperature are the same?
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Post by letsavit on Jul 16, 2015 11:20:50 GMT
With a dripper, it is going to be changing all the time as you vape from "just filled" to "needing filled" as the juice flow is going to be reducing slightly all the time? VapingBadI would think so, Evolv said they were surprised that they found in the original development that pauses in inhaling caused the biggest raises in temp. I think one reason for cleaner flavour is avoiding cooking the liquid and the little bit of residue that leaves on the coil even those these pauses/variations may be very short. letsavit are you saying that heat and temperature are the same? No I asked how do you measure heat?
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Bob
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Post by Bob on Jul 16, 2015 11:31:01 GMT
Why do folk use the Fahrenheit scale when doing these tests, I can understand that yanks using the F scale they dont know any better but the celcius/centigrade scale is way more familiar to folk in europe and the UK, publish a temp in F and i need to google its value in celcius which i get.... come on chaps All the mods seem to have fahrenheit, but not all have centigrade, and personally I prefer fahrenheit ............................. and pints and pounds and ounces lol I'm also of the older generation that was brought up with all the older units, and although I'm not too bad with meters, grammes I still struggle with °C and litres
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Jul 16, 2015 11:32:51 GMT
letsavit joule heating (like in an e-cig) is normally measured in watts, for DC it is IV or for simple DC resistive circuits I 2R or V 2/R, for PWM you need to convert the voltage to RMS, for PFM I guess you need calculus.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 16, 2015 15:25:47 GMT
You measure heat in a unit of power like Watts. Heat is heating power, put a kilowatt heater in a small room and it will noticeable warm it, but put it in a big room like a warehouse it will heat it just as much but you wouldn't notice the tiny change in temperature. The heat is the same in both examples, but the temperature change is very different. Vaping temp limited devices by maxing the watts and just setting the temperature is like going back to using a mech in that it is the coil that determines the power use. If you take 2 set ups one single coil and one dual using exactly the same coils and wicks set a max watts and the same temp with suitable airflow the dual coil will use twice the power and create around twice the vapour. It works for some people as the coil is the right size, but with temp limiting IMO it is better to set the watts more or less as normal, maybe 10 % higher than non temp limited YMMV we are all different. I set temp by flavour, if you loose vapour production doing this you need a bigger coil (more contact area with the wick). On some builds you may not ever reach the temp, others you get close when watts, build, wicking, airflow & temp are more in balance, but for builds where it keeps going over it really makes a difference to the vape quality. Devices with good temperature controlled pre-heat give a better vape even if you never get to temperature, if you have a build like this on a Evolv DNA turn off temp limiting and the vape is not as good try it if you don't believe me. One I always remember is the swimming pool and the a hot cuppa, there's far more heat (energy) in the pool even though the tea is a higher temp. VapingBad explains it far better than I could. robby I build my coils to suit the SquapeR I vape. I know it has the airflow and wicking to keep up with about 25w. I like my vape around 150mW/mm2, so using those parameters I can build a twisted ribbon/wire coil to suit using steamengine. I've also found that I like the flavour with the temp set <200c (392f) so in use I start off with that and 25w. If all is well I'm vaping as close to the set temp as possible and at a stable wattage throughout the draw. If I get TL, which is minor adjustments in power, it's a sign that the wicking isn't optimal or I'm taking weaker draws than usual, I can then just tweak the power down. If I get TP then something major is wrong, usually a connection or the 510 pin in the Squape that can play up sometimes, or a really strangled wick. I underlined two important points. I don't think you get the best vape by just building any old coil, setting max power and "temp controlling" But that's one thing about the DNA40, you can throw anything at it (except poor connection) and it will still vape.
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Post by letsavit on Jul 16, 2015 15:55:28 GMT
You measure heat in a unit of power like Watts. Heat is heating power, put a kilowatt heater in a small room and it will noticeable warm it, but put it in a big room like a warehouse it will heat it just as much but you wouldn't notice the tiny change in temperature. The heat is the same in both examples, but the temperature change is very different. Vaping temp limited devices by maxing the watts and just setting the temperature is like going back to using a mech in that it is the coil that determines the power use. If you take 2 set ups one single coil and one dual using exactly the same coils and wicks set a max watts and the same temp with suitable airflow the dual coil will use twice the power and create around twice the vapour. It works for some people as the coil is the right size, but with temp limiting IMO it is better to set the watts more or less as normal, maybe 10 % higher than non temp limited YMMV we are all different. I set temp by flavour, if you loose vapour production doing this you need a bigger coil (more contact area with the wick). On some builds you may not ever reach the temp, others you get close when watts, build, wicking, airflow & temp are more in balance, but for builds where it keeps going over it really makes a difference to the vape quality. Devices with good temperature controlled pre-heat give a better vape even if you never get to temperature, if you have a build like this on a Evolv DNA turn off temp limiting and the vape is not as good try it if you don't believe me. One I always remember is the swimming pool and the a hot cuppa, there's far more heat (energy) in the pool even though the tea is a higher temp. VapingBad explains it far better than I could. robby I build my coils to suit the SquapeR I vape. I know it has the airflow and wicking to keep up with about 25w. I like my vape around 150mW/mm2, so using those parameters I can build a twisted ribbon/wire coil to suit using steamengine. I've also found that I like the flavour with the temp set <200c (392f) so in use I start off with that and 25w. If all is well I'm vaping as close to the set temp as possible and at a stable wattage throughout the draw. If I get TL, which is minor adjustments in power, it's a sign that the wicking isn't optimal or I'm taking weaker draws than usual, I can then just tweak the power down. If I get TP then something major is wrong, usually a connection or the 510 pin in the Squape that can play up sometimes, or a really strangled wick. I underlined two important points. I don't think you get the best vape by just building any old coil, setting max power and "temp controlling" But that's one thing about the DNA40, you can throw anything at it (except poor connection) and it will still vape. [/b] [/quote] I don't build "any old coil" I build a coil to vape at a set temp. You really do talk a load of bolloxs and don't ever patronise me again.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 16, 2015 18:10:45 GMT
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tim
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Post by tim on Jul 16, 2015 23:17:36 GMT
'scuse my ignorant self butting in here, but I thought temp control was more about taste than burning. Did I get something wrong? I have flavours (fruits) that taste good at higher watts (30+) and others (custards) that taste good at lower watts (12ish). I'm talking about Kanthal though. Am I missing something, or is this a contest?
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Jul 16, 2015 23:51:57 GMT
'scuse my ignorant self butting in here, but I thought temp control was more about taste than burning. Did I get something wrong? I have flavours (fruits) that taste good at higher watts (30+) and others (custards) that taste good at lower watts (12ish). I'm talking about Kanthal though. Am I missing something, or is this a contest? It for many of use, it just stops the liquid going above x temp and for me that makes a very worthwhile difference.
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