The "I'm new to nickel builds, help me please!" Thread

[jevans]

That was exactly my idea Andy chykensa !

Jim

[chykensa]

DiscoDes - do you make this up exactly like a twisted Kanthal? How do you calculate the resistance of the twisted wire? Can I twist it using a saucepan handle, spinning it whilst suspending it like I do with Kanthal? Questions, questions?!

[VapingBad]

If you had started with nickel you would find a learning curve with the transition to kanthal, people don't like change and some are more vocal about that online creating the false image of it being difficult. If you don't see this for what it is you start with the expectation of it being difficult and might as well tie one hand behind your back. I find nickel easier to use than kanthal, but I think the one area that has some people stressed is rewicking one style of coil, but no one is forcing you to do that and as DiscoDes said twisted coils make this easier.

Sure you do need to learn number of wraps, size of coil ect, but you do most of this for a new atty and don't get your knickers in a twist. All the same basic principles apply like airflow, wicking, contact surface area, power, keep legs short and make solid connections.

[VapingBad]

Jul 31, 2015 11:25:53 GMT chykensa said:

DiscoDes - do you make this up exactly like a twisted Kanthal? How do you calculate the resistance of the twisted wire? Can I twist it using a saucepan handle, spinning it whilst suspending it like I do with Kanthal? Questions, questions?!

Yes, it is easier than kanthal to twist, doesn't want to buckle, SteamEngine coil calc does twisted, but half the resistance of a single strand would be a good enough approximation.  If you have really thin wire available triple twisted is even nicer to work with and Clapton wire is extremely easy to use, the easiest wire I have ever used for micro-coils, but not so easy to make, but FT and Focal sell it in nickel.

[*-SARIN-*]

Solid advice from VapingBad.

[chykensa]

Still waiting for my postie to strike - watch this space!

[chykensa]

Jul 31, 2015 11:35:31 GMT VapingBad said:

If you had started with nickel

Thanks for this advice VapingBad, I must admit that I am only concerned with the very low resistances concerned, but I guess the built-in protection of the mod will take care of this. I've just redone my calculations in Steam Engine (linked) and adjusted my resistance down to .1ohm. This seems minute, but I guess it should work OK.
Am i right in thinking that the power will be controlled because the mod works on temperature rather than watts, or do I have the option to alter the wattage after the coil is installed and 'registered'?
I'll have a go over the weekend, and see how I get on, then report back to this thread with pictures too if I remember!

Love that avatar BTW!

[babs]

Just using my first Ni200 coil in an istick 40tc. I rebuilt a eGo one CLR coil with 30awg Ni200. 8 wraps on a 2.5mm former. It came in at 0.15ohm and seems to give more flavour not much more vapour but I mouth to lung (I think) vape.
Never used tc or Ni200 before but it seemed pretty straight forward it was more springy than kanthal so needed pinching together a few times to be small enough to fit. I spaced the coil after pinching and it's working only had it going for the last couple of hours to I can't say how long it will perform this well.

[*-SARIN-*]

Jul 31, 2015 13:47:55 GMT chykensa said:

Jul 31, 2015 11:35:31 GMT VapingBad said:

If you had started with nickel

Thanks for this advice VapingBad, I must admit that I am only concerned with the very low resistances concerned, but I guess the built-in protection of the mod will take care of this. I've just redone my calculations in Steam Engine (linked) and adjusted my resistance down to .1ohm. This seems minute, but I guess it should work OK.
Am i right in thinking that the power will be controlled because the mod works on temperature rather than watts, or do I have the option to alter the wattage after the coil is installed and 'registered'?
I'll have a go over the weekend, and see how I get on, then report back to this thread with pictures too if I remember!

Love that avatar BTW!

 You set both the wattage and temp in temperature mode - the mod adjusts the voltage to control it.

[hijack]

Jul 31, 2015 9:29:06 GMT jevans said:

Now that chykensa has taken the TC plunge I'm getting really interested!
Would like advice on which mod to get, ideally a similar size to the Cloupor mini and uses 1 x 18650.

Jim

Well its not on sale just yet(3 weeks to go I think), but the IPV D2 is going to be a small neat TC Mod.





78mmx40mmx23mm

Its had good reviews from the people who were sent the prototypes to test out.


Has NI200 or Titanium mode for TC and more importantly for me, after my disappointing venture buying the SMY60Mini, the D2 actually seems to work well.
0.05 Ohm min so should be able to use thicker wire while keeping the number of wraps down.
£28 from FT   I've just placed my order whilst writing this 

[VapingBad]

As *-SARIN-* said chykensa use watts as normal (on almost all temp limiting mods) like the accelerator on you v-dub and the temp limit is just like a speed limit that automatically lifts off the accelerator to maintain the speed or temperature in this case. 0.1 ohm it at the low end for most of the mods and absolutely fine, it is just that nickel has a low resistance and nothing to worry about as long as your mod supports that level. On DNAs if you go below the min ohms limit it just means that you cant use max watts, I don't know what other mods do.

[jevans]

Thank you hijack , I have ear marked this thread.

Jim

[chykensa]

Well, update time folks.

As DiscoDes and VapingBad suggested, I made up a short length of twisted Nickel200 wire, and wound a coil with 10 wraps open-spaced on a 3mm Kurocoiler. After winding I grabbed one leg and gently pulled, opening the spaces between the coil.

I had already washed dried and prepped a Kayfun Lite, and quite easily installed the coil, making sure that the coil was not too wide, avoiding a short against the chimney base.

Once this was done, I set the coil resistance on the mod - .11ohm (thanks *-SARIN-* for the PM!) and set the temperature to 350F to play safe. I then set the watts to 25w (WAY more than I would normally risk on a KFL) wicked the coil easily with a 4mm strip of cotton pad, twisted and trimmed, and primed the coil and loaded the tank with juice - some well steeped Minty The Toff 10mg.

With some trepidation, I checked all the mod settings, and then pushed the power button for the first time.

All seemed good - the coil fired up, and vapour came out of the right hole. I am currently vaping this as above settings, and it certainly chucks out more vapour than it would have done with a Kanthal coil, with a smooth flavour and that pleasant understated crackle that comes from a new coil.

Having successfully built this coil, it throws up a few supplementary questions.
1 - how do I know if the temperature protection kicks in, or is the whole point that I won't, apart from a lack of dry hits?
2 - how long will this coil last before it needs dry-burning or replacing - I intend to change juices around a bit?
3 - a KFL-specific question, this - can I completely remove the airflow grub-screw to get the maximum airflow into the atomiser?

I'll off out now to do some shopping, so will take it with me, making sure I have a freshly charged battery installed, and will report back later.

Thanks for your patience in answering what might seem paranoid and silly questions, but I know that I won't be the last person to try this TC stuff, and hope that this thread might help others.

[VapingBad]

Well done Andy.

Aug 1, 2015 11:42:48 GMT chykensa said:

1 - how do I know if the temperature protection kicks in, or is the whole point that I won't, apart from a lack of dry hits?
2 - how long will this coil last before it needs dry-burning or replacing - I intend to change juices around a bit?
3 - a KFL-specific question, this - can I completely remove the airflow grub-screw to get the maximum airflow into the atomiser?

1. I don't know what the Sigiele does screen wise if anything, but you may sense a levelling off
2. Very flavour dependent, but probably 2-3 time longer than a kanthal build
3. Yes you can remove it, not sure it will make a big difference

[letsavit]

Well done and welcome to the world of temp control ...certainly allows me to push my kayfuns to thier limits, without think my kayfun days would be over. Not sure what your mod reports on screen but on a DNA it shows the watts it's using, it differs throughout the tank.

This is a good deck if you wanna push a kayfun some more...