TC problems

[tim]

I have had issues with a few tanks/drippers using Ni200 with temp reg. Ohms changing (which I know they do when heated) erratically after using for a few hours, until the dreaded "check atomiser" warning. When it first happened, I suspected dirty contacts/pin issues. So I cleaned them without solving the problem. So took the simple route and recoiled. All ok, for a few days, maybe a week (not using for work though), then a repeat of the above. I was rebuilding this weekend and got distracted, so didn't get time to rebuild all I was doing. So I just tightened up all the connections and put aside for later. Picked up one of them tonight (accidentally) and filled it. It is working fine. I know that TC needs solid connections, but will the connection *fatigue* in any way after a rebuild?

[JayJ]

Hi Tim, I'm no expert in these things, far from it and I'm sure someone in the know will be along with some ideas. So with that in mind I can only go on my own experiences. I've found that as long as the initial build in my subtank mini is good then nothing seems to change until I'm ready to change it. What mod are you using out of interest ?

Jay

[letsavit]

Yea it does on cheap clones with crap guillotine posts. Kayfun etc with screws always fine for me.

Did read someone state on the evolve forum I think that atty lock is a plaster for a bad build, bollox it's a god send for £5 cloned attys with crap posts and thin NI200.

[tim]

Sept 21, 2015 20:59:35 GMT letsavit said:

Yea it does on cheap clones with crap guillotine posts. Kayfun etc with screws always fine for me.

Did read someone state on the evolve forum I think that atty lock is a plaster for a bad build, bollox it's a god send for £5 cloned attys with crap posts and thin NI200.

Yeah. I'm thinking the same letsavit. But I have had it happen on authentics too. Although mainly clones.

[tim]

Sept 21, 2015 20:53:33 GMT JayJ said:

Hi Tim, I'm no expert in these things, far from it and I'm sure someone in the know will be along with some ideas. So with that in mind I can only go on my own experiences. I've found that as long as the initial build in my subtank mini is good then nothing seems to change until I'm ready to change it. What mod are you using out of interest ?

Jay

It's not the mods Jay, it's the tanks/drippers which lose out efficiency wise. They work for a while, then start playing up.

[letsavit]

Sept 21, 2015 21:18:13 GMT tim said:

Sept 21, 2015 20:59:35 GMT letsavit said:

Yea it does on cheap clones with crap guillotine posts. Kayfun etc with screws always fine for me.

Did read someone state on the evolve forum I think that atty lock is a plaster for a bad build, bollox it's a god send for £5 cloned attys with crap posts and thin NI200.

Yeah. I'm thinking the same letsavit. But I have had it happen on authentics too. Although mainly clones.

It's quite typical for me for the ohms to drift with posts, after using/heating a few times it's good to re tighten the screws, Allen heads, easy enough on a dripper not so much on a tank.

[tim]

Sept 21, 2015 21:27:21 GMT letsavit said:

Sept 21, 2015 21:18:13 GMT tim said:

Yeah. I'm thinking the same letsavit. But I have had it happen on authentics too. Although mainly clones.

It's quite typical for me for the ohms to drift with posts, after using/heating a few times it's good to re tighten the screws, Allen heads, easy enough on a dripper not so much on a tank.

Therein lies the problem methinks

[VapingBad]

It can be a poor board, poor atty, poor build or poor mod, anything in other words, but most likely is poor atty connections or 510 if it works well sometimes. Weak 510 springs caused problems for DNA40s on some mods so Evolv have done their own 510 for the DNA200 reference mod that they will have for sale eventually that has a very strong wave spring. It is one reason I don't use Fat Daddy 510, but that is not fist hand experience, but I have read some complaints from modders. I am quite sure the rubbish 510 in the SX Mini M Class I had was part of it problem, I could get the same dripper to read lost of different resistances just buy turning in the 510.

[tim]

Sept 21, 2015 22:00:22 GMT VapingBad said:

It can be a poor board, poor atty, poor build or poor mod, anything in other words, but most likely is poor atty connections or 510 if it works well sometimes. Weak 510 springs caused problems for DNA40s on some mods so Evolv have done their own 510 for the DNA200 reference mod that they will have for sale eventually that has a very strong wave spring. It is one reason I don't use Fat Daddy 510, but that is not fist hand experience, but I have read some complaints from modders. I am quite sure the rubbish 510 in the SX Mini M Class I had was part of it problem, I could get the same dripper to read lost of different resistances just buy turning in the 510.

Yeah John, that sounds more like the issues I have. Turning in the atty worked sometimes, but not always. Maybe it is a weak 510 causing the problem

[phatfil]

fwiw a dirty fix for 510 depth/connection issues while fuggly,will work..

if you grind/sand/file down the top surface from a 510-ego adaptor by a couple of mm and use that to connect an atty to the mod, with the top ground off the atty will screw in that much further pushing the adaptor pin out further to make a good mechanical contact with the internal +ve contact of a mods 510 connector..

[VapingBad]

Sept 22, 2015 0:18:22 GMT phatfil said:

fwiw a dirty fix for 510 depth/connection issues while fuggly,will work..

if you grind/sand/file down the top surface from a 510-ego adaptor by a couple of mm and use that to connect an atty to the mod, with the top ground off the atty will screw in that much further pushing the adaptor pin out further to make a good mechanical contact with the internal +ve contact of a mods 510 connector..

No doubt that will work some of the time and worth a try, but only as good as the connection it makes with the original 510.  Nothing will fix poor/dry soldering, weak spring or the sin of sins a 510 that uses the spring to carry current because temp limiting relies on detecting very very small changes in resistance.

[Q]

I've had the same with kanthal builds on my Rose, every few days I have to tweak the grubscrews, but they are clones and it doesn't give me much grief

[robby]

A thing worth remembering is that every time you fire the mod, the wire will heat up and expand. Of course this will also happen to the wire between the screw and the post. When it cools down it will shrink back to slightly less thickness than before as it is effectively thinner. The softer the metal, the more it will be affected this way. Tightening too much when you build the coil/atty wont help because you are already flattening the wire slightly and when it gets heated and cooled a few times it will still shrink a little. I`ve seen a lot of this with nickel coils on my atties. If you nip them up once a day it should take care of it. You might be surprised at the number of times you find the screw slightly loose, especially when cold the next day. It takes very little difference in the efficiency of the connection to lose a few hundredths of a ohm (sometimes more) and upset all the calculations made on the board of the mod.

Any tanks with springs in them have given me issues as well, the connection is so critical with such low resistance coils. You probably wouldn`t notice it on something with a 1.8 coil on it which used to be regarded as low resistance

[decoy]

i do think a list of attys that are known to work well with tc would be helpfull to us tc newbs as well as builds to go in them

[tim]

Sept 22, 2015 2:17:07 GMT robby said:

A thing worth remembering is that every time you fire the mod, the wire will heat up and expand. Of course this will also happen to the wire between the screw and the post. When it cools down it will shrink back to slightly less thickness than before as it is effectively thinner. The softer the metal, the more it will be affected this way. Tightening too much when you build the coil/atty wont help because you are already flattening the wire slightly and when it gets heated and cooled a few times it will still shrink a little. I`ve seen a lot of this with nickel coils on my atties. If you nip them up once a day it should take care of it. You might be surprised at the number of times you find the screw slightly loose, especially when cold the next day. It takes very little difference in the efficiency of the connection to lose a few hundredths of a ohm (sometimes more) and upset all the calculations made on the board of the mod.

Any tanks with springs in them have given me issues as well, the connection is so critical with such low resistance coils. You probably wouldn`t notice it on something with a 1.8 coil on it which used to be regarded as low resistance

Yeah, tightening definitely helps. I thought it might be an atty issue, but maybe it is the nature of the wire. I don't mind too much if I need to *tinker*, but maybe the manufacturers need to catch on to the problem. I have had the same happen to "authentic" tanks too.