enjay
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Post by enjay on Dec 24, 2015 1:33:15 GMT
I've been putting it off after reading about how tricky the Nickel coils were to make and the inability to dry burn them. Am I right in picking up that stainless steel wire - that I notice several recent TC mods are capable of using - is more robust, like Kanthal? Are there any other considerations / limitations with SS coils? Yes ss is easy to use and more like kanthal, I use it for regular coils too, the vape mesh company sell it ready annealed so it's still soft but definitely easy one to work with.
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Dec 24, 2015 4:10:51 GMT
I've been putting it off after reading about how tricky the Nickel coils were to make and the inability to dry burn them. Am I right in picking up that stainless steel wire - that I notice several recent TC mods are capable of using - is more robust, like Kanthal? Are there any other considerations / limitations with SS coils? SS has a much lower change in resistance with temp than Ni or even Ti and because the alloys are specced for hardness and corrosion resistance and the proportions of each metal are not as exact it's temp sensing performance varies within a grade. You can see from the table that Ni is up to 6 times as sensitive to temperature change so it is far easier for the mod to measure. Personally I don't believe that it is worth the effort and would recommend that temp limiting noobs use Ni at first. IMO Ni200 is easy to use.
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Dec 24, 2015 4:13:16 GMT
Personally don't like twisted NI200, didn't work for me when tried, makes no sense to me neither, space to stop contact and keep the readings accurate but twisting two wires together that will not be in full contact across is length is ok? The important thing is the connections as long as all strands connect at each end the contact along the wire doesn't matter, far better and less problematic than claptons in this respect because both wires have the same current.
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DiscoDes
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Post by DiscoDes on Dec 24, 2015 10:06:20 GMT
chykensa I just use THESE pre-coiled Nickel coils from Fasttech. Takes all the "faff" out of the equation. Note the number of loops when selecting, I use the 8 loops in both Ego Mega One Tank CLR heads and Subtanks. If you are using other RBA decks with more space you can use the 10 or 12 loops, also you can choose the diameter to suit your RBA deck. Easy peasy lemon squeezy!
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*-SARIN-*
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Post by *-SARIN-* on Dec 24, 2015 10:54:33 GMT
Twist the wire if you are only going to use one coil, otherwise just micro coil if using two. I own no mod that can cope with 2 x twisted coils, none of them will fire that low. As mentioned above you are going to need lots of wraps, Ni has low low resistance/m. I have been using twisted dual Ni200 coils for ADV over a year, admittedly with a genny on a min 0.1 ohm mod (DNA40) as you need 0.16 mm Ni200 I told Vape Mesh Co at the time their wire sizes were too big, but they don't have a Scooby about vaping. With the DNA200 I'm using twisted 0.25 mm in the Aromamizer, dual 2.5 mm 10/9 coils 0.056 ohm lovely and vape very well down to 355 F with 100% PG. Good to know mate.
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purple1234
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Post by purple1234 on Dec 24, 2015 15:31:59 GMT
Had my first dive into temp control this week ( ready made ni kanger heads).
Will admit first day totally unimpressed , vape felt too cool, washed out , lacking in depth of flavour.
But after messing around with joules and temp settings I've found that yes it's a cooler vape , but when I have a really long inhale unlike my kanthal builds I no longer get a burnt / hot vape where the flavour changes from great to meh. The wick and coil have also remained very clean looking .
TC keeps it very consistent , it still doesn't beat my rda kanthal builds for flavour intensity nor my billow v2 kanthal but I can see why it's so popular.
I reckon after I start doing my own builds I will be a total convert.
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enjay
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Post by enjay on Dec 25, 2015 1:01:42 GMT
I've been putting it off after reading about how tricky the Nickel coils were to make and the inability to dry burn them. Am I right in picking up that stainless steel wire - that I notice several recent TC mods are capable of using - is more robust, like Kanthal? Are there any other considerations / limitations with SS coils? SS has a much lower change in resistance with temp than Ni or even Ti and because the alloys are specced for hardness and corrosion resistance and the proportions of each metal are not as exact it's temp sensing performance varies within a grade. You can see from the table that Ni is up to 6 times as sensitive to temperature change so it is far easier for the mod to measure. Personally I don't believe that it is worth the effort and would recommend that temp limiting noobs use Ni at first. IMO Ni200 is easy to use. What's the story with ohms with tc? I've seen various ohm prebuilt coils but don't understand about the ohms part seeing as they're using tc. Bit of tc noob tbh lol Just got my first regulated in a loooooong time. That RX200, got a dna 200 custom box on the way too so figure I should maybe investigate the whole tc thing
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Dec 25, 2015 1:22:35 GMT
SS has a much lower change in resistance with temp than Ni or even Ti and because the alloys are specced for hardness and corrosion resistance and the proportions of each metal are not as exact it's temp sensing performance varies within a grade. You can see from the table that Ni is up to 6 times as sensitive to temperature change so it is far easier for the mod to measure. Personally I don't believe that it is worth the effort and would recommend that temp limiting noobs use Ni at first. IMO Ni200 is easy to use. What's the story with ohms with tc? I've seen various ohm prebuilt coils but don't understand about the ohms part seeing as they're using tc. Bit of tc noob tbh lol Just got my first regulated in a loooooong time. That RX200, got a dna 200 custom box on the way too so figure I should maybe investigate the whole tc thing The ohms only really matter to get above the min for your mod, EG DNA40 min is 0.1 ohm so dual coils are a real changeling cause Ni"00 has such low R. I had to use twisted 0.16 mm 34 AWG and had to get it from the States, it is about the same R as single 0.225 mm, it was fine for a genny but tricky to rewick. New devices are far more flexible because the min R is a lot lower, I an using twisted 0.25 mm Ni and you can pull cotton wool through that much better. Another option is Ti, it gives you the wire thickness at res that most TC mods cane do, BTW dropping the temp about 90 F on a Ni profile should be close with Ti. The same things that have always been important about coils geomerty, airflow and wicking are the same, you may need to use thinner wire though. I have 2 Aromamizers set up with 2.5 mm dual coils, the Ni one is twisted 0.25 10/9 wraps 0.056 ohm, the Ti one is 12/11 0.4 single 0.24 ohm, I much prefer the Ni vape and find it easier to work with. Though they have about the same contact area or heat flux the res of the Ni makes it tough for the mod to power and to sense the tiny changes in R it needs to be very accurate. Not sure about the lower limits on the RX, but with a little tweaking the DNA200 will do everything that can be done ATM, I would start with Ni to get a feel for it
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catface26
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Post by catface26 on Dec 25, 2015 9:28:14 GMT
Personally don't like twisted NI200, didn't work for me when tried, makes no sense to me neither, space to stop contact and keep the readings accurate but twisting two wires together that will not be in full contact across is length is ok? The important thing is the connections as long as all strands connect at each end the contact along the wire doesn't matter, far better and less problematic than claptons in this respect because both wires have the same current. I've always been told to always use spaced coils with nickel as the current jumps between the wires when in contact which messes up the temp control algorithm?
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Dec 25, 2015 10:38:12 GMT
The important thing is the connections as long as all strands connect at each end the contact along the wire doesn't matter, far better and less problematic than claptons in this respect because both wires have the same current. I've always been told to always use spaced coils with nickel as the current jumps between the wires when in contact which messes up the temp control algorithm? Twisted and spaced or contact are different things, twisted is 2 ir more strands twisted together to make a thicker wire.
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catface26
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Post by catface26 on Dec 25, 2015 12:37:11 GMT
I've always been told to always use spaced coils with nickel as the current jumps between the wires when in contact which messes up the temp control algorithm? Twisted and spaced or contact are different things, twisted is 2 ir more strands twisted together to make a thicker wire. Ah that makes sense. Assumed any kind of contact was the same.
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pfaber11
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Post by pfaber11 on Dec 30, 2015 19:38:07 GMT
If I were you I would give TC a wide birth. Most people start vaping to improve their health . Ni200 and Titanium coils are not safe and may lead to lung cancer . The stuff which comes out of them is very hazardous to your health. I know what you're going to say that they don't get hot enough and you don't get dry hits off of them but sometimes they do. Don't believe me well take a look at the posts on other forums because I've seen a few posts where people have had dry hits in TC mode so it does happen .
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Dec 30, 2015 21:34:18 GMT
If I were you I would give TC a wide birth. Most people start vaping to improve their health . Ni200 and Titanium coils are not safe and may lead to lung cancer . The stuff which comes out of them is very hazardous to your health. I know what you're going to say that they don't get hot enough and you don't get dry hits off of them but sometimes they do. Don't believe me well take a look at the posts on other forums because I've seen a few posts where people have had dry hits in TC mode so it does happen . Sorry but that is just unfounded rubbish, I'm sure you mean well, but there is zero proof of that and only very tenuous speculation based on subjecting those metals to far higher temps.
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letsavit
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Post by letsavit on Dec 30, 2015 23:22:03 GMT
I've always been told to always use spaced coils with nickel as the current jumps between the wires when in contact which messes up the temp control algorithm? Twisted and spaced or contact are different things, twisted is 2 ir more strands twisted together to make a thicker wire. But twisting is contact of two round wires..... Can't see how it can make full contact along its length to make one thicker wire.
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letsavit
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Post by letsavit on Dec 30, 2015 23:26:27 GMT
I've been putting it off after reading about how tricky the Nickel coils were to make and the inability to dry burn them. Am I right in picking up that stainless steel wire - that I notice several recent TC mods are capable of using - is more robust, like Kanthal? Are there any other considerations / limitations with SS coils? SS has a much lower change in resistance with temp than Ni or even Ti and because the alloys are specced for hardness and corrosion resistance and the proportions of each metal are not as exact it's temp sensing performance varies within a grade. You can see from the table that Ni is up to 6 times as sensitive to temperature change so it is far easier for the mod to measure. Personally I don't believe that it is worth the effort and would recommend that temp limiting noobs use Ni at first. IMO Ni200 is easy to use. Been playing with SS today, it's datum for the maths is almost 6 times NI200 so the maths are there .4 dia coming in at 0.5 as opposed to .01 with NI200 Vaping fine, like it......... So far.....
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