TJ
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Post by TJ on Apr 29, 2016 6:22:24 GMT
The screw in mine turns freely but doesn't actually do anything to the airflow, would that be the the same thing phtumshk ?
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phtumshk
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Post by phtumshk on Apr 29, 2016 9:50:01 GMT
the simple fix for the V4 was too screw the grub screw past the point of 'finger tight' with the correct sized allen key so it forced its way past the obstruction.. If your confident enough to pull the pin out youll see whether the holes are fully covered when the screw is in as far as it goes. This pin on FT you can see the holes are covered with the screw inside.
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TJ
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Post by TJ on Apr 29, 2016 12:04:20 GMT
I am so glad I got one of those huge desktop magnifying units for xmas, even my strongest glasses wouldn't help me out here. I'll have a look later perhaps phtumshk, cheers for that.
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phtumshk
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Post by phtumshk on Apr 29, 2016 13:21:50 GMT
I am so glad I got one of those huge desktop magnifying units for xmas, even my strongest glasses wouldn't help me out here. I'll have a look later perhaps phtumshk , cheers for that. Yeah there tiny int they lol. You can always try brute force, screw it in till its finger tight then see if you can go any further with a little extra torque. Down side of this method is if you go in youll need to hold the pin with some pliers to get the grub screw out as the burrs will hold the screw till its been in and out a couple of times and cleared the threads..
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spacey
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Post by spacey on Apr 30, 2016 14:38:17 GMT
Bumping this thread to ask a question. On my first v3 mini I can adjust the airflow but on the sxk which I received today it doesn't seem to adjust, has anyone else found this? Strangely, I had this issue in reverse. The cheaper one, when I tried to adjust the airflow grub screw, the whole block and centre pin all just came away. Tried to get it all back together but then the square bottom (that covers up the airflow access bit) wouldn't screw back on flat and was unuseable. FT have sent me a new base section (which includes the deck etc) and I'm not even going to try adjusting this one incase the same thing happens!! My SXK version was fine though - had no probs adjusting the airflow at all
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 3, 2016 13:01:23 GMT
Well, I received my genuine Kayfun Mini v3 late last week. Is it better than the XYK clone? No it isn't, it's the same. But I didn't expect it to be better and I'm glad I bought it to support Svoe'.
Anyways, I spent the weekend (on and off) building and rebuilding the genuine and clones to find the best low watt setup. I no longer agree that these tanks are especially forgiving with wicking and they do punish you if you don't get it right. Yes, it still vapes with poor wicking but flavour takes a significant hit.
I tried the Svoemesto recommended method of coiling and wicking - diagonal coil and then laying the wick tails along the juice well. This method is less fiddly, but it didn't perform as well for me (flavour wise) as the method below.
I've moved up to 3.0mm diameter (micro) coils as they seem to work better for flavour in this tank. The coil is seated about 1.5mm above the airhole - an easy measure is that the bottom of the coil is flush with the top of the positive and negative post screw heads.
The juice delivery system seems to prefer a generous amount of wick in the coil but less than usual in the juice well, so I wick it snugly in the coil and then trim the tail ends down (top and sides) leaving thicker wick "shoulders" near the coil. I don't overly pack or fiddle with the wick in the juice well, I just turn the wick ends back on themselves until they drop into the well, then gently tap down the top once or twice and leave it at that. Finally, I make sure that the gaps at the front of the juice well (either side of the block) are clear of wick. That's it.
I have found for thicker juices 70/30 and above, three full turns (not two) of the juice flow control is optimal to maintain that same high flavour you get with the first few hits of a new build. You can go to four turns actually, but at that point I have noticed a little flooding and leaking can occur over long periods, so three seems best for thicker juices.
I've settled on: 28AWG, 3.0mm diameter, 9 wraps for 1.8/1.9ohm at 10/11 watts, which delivers high flavour and a smooth vape. With this build I feel it's now just about matching the UTA2 in flavour, but I need a longer test period to be sure of that.
I hope you are all enjoying this tank as much as I am :-)
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pacman
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Post by pacman on May 3, 2016 21:16:20 GMT
will have that on my shopping list thanks
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Mrsmac
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Post by Mrsmac on May 4, 2016 18:02:46 GMT
Brilliant review @hondo many thanks. Update: following advice on this thread, I managed to tighten the airflow on the sxk version. There seems to have been a small number of reports on ft experiencing what I was with the airflow screw not having an inpact. So if you do happen to have an airflow on the sxk that won't tighten...When you think it cannot turn any more keep going applying a little pressure and it should continue for you to adjust to your liking
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Romney
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Post by Romney on May 4, 2016 21:52:23 GMT
Hi,my SXK Kayfun Mini arrived today,and its driving me crazy.Havent managed a Vape on it yet,as I cant get the bloody screws to take hold of the wire.Bloody rounded screws.Anyone else have this problem? I read on another Forum the other cheaper version was better on the screw front,as there flat headed screws.
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decoy
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Post by decoy on May 4, 2016 22:29:32 GMT
I can use 0.3 without a problem what size you using
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Mrsmac
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Post by Mrsmac on May 4, 2016 23:13:59 GMT
Yes I found it a little fiddly at first using 28g but its alright now I've had practice
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Post by Deleted on May 5, 2016 7:45:08 GMT
Thanks @mrsmac, The tiny airhole is near the far end (deck end) of the adjustment chamber. From fully screwed in, unscrewing the air adjustment screw outwards will have no effect at all beyond the first several turns, as by that point the internal airhole will be fully exposed.
From fully screwed in, I counted about 3 full "finger turns" before the screw met the airhole. From that point there is about two turns of adjustment, and after that about twenty turns that will do nothing as the internal airhole is already fully open.
I think the airhole adjustment is poorly designed along with the deck block movement issue, but the rest of the tank more than makes up for it and I am sure they will improve it for the next version.
@romney, I had that issue with one screw on one of my SXK clones, but not the other two SXK clones. Try another screw from the spares pack. It seems to be a random issue with a few of them. Good luck.
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Romney
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Post by Romney on May 5, 2016 23:06:04 GMT
I can use 0.3 without a problem what size you using Hi decoy,using 28 gauge wire.
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Romney
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Post by Romney on May 5, 2016 23:08:47 GMT
Yes I found it a little fiddly at first using 28g but its alright now I've had practice Hi, Mrsmac,same here using 28 gauge.Eventually managed to get the wire to take hold.Hopefully it will be easier next time with practice.Its giving a lovely thick flavoursome vape,
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Romney
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Post by Romney on May 5, 2016 23:10:38 GMT
Thanks @mrsmac, The tiny airhole is near the far end (deck end) of the adjustment chamber. From fully screwed in, unscrewing the air adjustment screw outwards will have no effect at all beyond the first several turns, as by that point the internal airhole will be fully exposed. From fully screwed in, I counted about 3 full "finger turns" before the screw met the airhole. From that point there is about two turns of adjustment, and after that about twenty turns that will do nothing as the internal airhole is already fully open. I think the airhole adjustment is poorly designed along with the deck block movement issue, but the rest of the tank more than makes up for it and I am sure they will improve it for the next version. @romney, I had that issue with one screw on one of my SXK clones, but not the other two SXK clones. Try another screw from the spares pack. It seems to be a random issue with a few of them. Good luck. Hi,@hondo,thanks for replying.Ill try the spare screws on my next build,
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