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That's my next port of call..

I am gonna try a 3.5 % GR + 2 % Apple + 2% caramel and let it rest for a couple of weeks and see if it makes a nice Caramel Apple tobacco.

Unproven recipe below for 24 mg juice:

I really don't see what is the issue..The screw is adjustable to take into account the sightly different sizes so it does not matter how much you have to unscrew to make contact and eliminate battery rattle.

The way to assemble is put the atty on the top cap, then use the center pin screw to adjust it so that the atty sits flush at the top and you have good contact.Then battery tube followed by the battery and then the bottom cap. If it is loose at this point then a 10 x 2 mm thick magnet on the positive side should sort it.

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-Strong-Neodymium-disc-magnets-10mm-dia-x-2mm-N35-fridge-models-reborn-craft-/141207431334?pt=UK_Dolls_Accessories_RL&hash=item20e09e68a6

If you are feeling brave and don't want to spend money for magnets then use a penny (may need to file/sand it down slightly) but be careful and always use it on the negative side of the battery only. (edit:not recommended if you are a newbie at this.)

Mine steeped for longer than 4 weeks and this is what I mixed twice. I currently use 75 mg PG base.





Tried it on three different atty's and it's vapeable but only so so..Maybe I 'll try a 4% mix and see where it goes. Burley, I mix at 7.5% and it's fabulous.

It's still a crap atty and compared to others in the market is probably the worst.

"Works well" is not a term I would use with that atty for the flavour the crap even when it wicks..

Most people who bought it chucked it

Oh good..

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

If it is the EH Pro, remove the extension tube. The insert the square end of a 1/2 inch ratchet extension piece from the bottom and tap the board and the white insulator out gently.

If the button is fouling the microswitch, there is a chance you could rip the microswitch out or damage the OLED. So be very gentle. Also see if you can determine the position of the microswitch vis-a-vis the button by shining a light from the top.

There is a cut out in the insulator and you can gently try turning the circuit board by inserting a flat bladed screwdriver from the bottom if the microswitch is out of alignment with the butto. The glue only holds the grounding ring to the board rather than sticking it to the tube though there may be some excess which will easily break off.

If memory serves, the T Zmax has exactly the same circuit board as a Zmax.

So in all likelyhood the button (actuator) presses down directly on the microsswitch soldered to the circuit board. This microswitch is "sprung" by a tiny phospor bronze disc within the sealed switch which is almost impossible to repair.

The switch on the circuit board is a fairly standard 6 x 6 mm microswitch. The way to repair it would be to remove the circuit board (by desoldering all the connections) and de-solder the microswitch and solder a new microswitch on the board before re-assembly. Fiddly but doable.

Edit Add: If it is the EH Pro one then:

Sometimes the circuit board rotates a bit an the button sits on the microswitch at an angle. Simply rotating the board and aligning it correctly will sort out the issue.

If it is the microswitch that is foobar it's a bespoke right angle 3.2 x3.2 mm micro switch on the EH Pro which is almost impossible to source in UK.I have repaired a couple by transplanting the phospor bronze ring, which is a right fiddly job and a bit hit and miss.