testdruif
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Post by testdruif on Jan 8, 2014 15:14:04 GMT
Welcome
Keep on the vape!
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testdruif
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Post by testdruif on Jan 7, 2014 18:00:11 GMT
It's a box without cover and screw holes? Bummer  It has a cover but i want to replace it with a polished and tinted dark blue cover (kinda see through) This is the box, but getting rid of the lid:  Aha! Gotcha, your plastic won't have a lot of room for error! And now to make you crazy again  Have you considered magnets? (half ball or small rods) you could paste them on the lid and just slide them in etc. |
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testdruif
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Post by testdruif on Jan 7, 2014 17:52:10 GMT
Rounded corners wont work (too small) or? They was rounded off way too much, i would not even have enough space to put the four screw holes on each corner to screw to the main box  It's a box without cover and screw holes? Bummer |
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testdruif
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Post by testdruif on Jan 7, 2014 17:46:15 GMT
That is my aim, to try and make it very easy to follow with pictures and words so if all works out well others can maybe try and make one. The mod box mod cover turned up today and silly me ordered it with rounded corners when i should of got just plain square corners  So i have had to order another one, fingers crossed it will be here for the weekend Rounded corners wont work (too small) or? |
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testdruif
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Post by testdruif on Jan 7, 2014 17:38:56 GMT
testdruif Greg Done some few diagrams, still not finished. DNA20 Board:  Battery Diagram:  Box Mod:  Clear as day! |
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testdruif
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Post by testdruif on Jan 7, 2014 17:25:26 GMT
a nemesis? If I ever have more money than I have now and I have to choose between the 2 above I would go for the GP papx. I have an nzonic and a nemesis so I have both the telescopic and the "add tubes to fit battery" mod. I like the feel of the nemesis more because it's one continuous tube. you can polish it all night without having your hands ripped open  Another drawback for me is the sideways positioned switch. it's not as accessible and multi-directional as a switch that only sticks out on one end of the mod. and for me, pure looks wise the papx wins it over the justgg with all its "going up, going down, going up" around the main tube |
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testdruif
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Post by testdruif on Jan 7, 2014 7:27:57 GMT
I've also been waiting for a few packages from the uk One sent on the 23rd of December and one sent on the 30th of December still not here damn you royal mail |
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testdruif
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Post by testdruif on Jan 6, 2014 22:18:01 GMT
Greg testdruif Just finished my final....yes final diagram as i will use this with my guide, can you both confirm this is fine with the fuses i am using (jokes of blowing up aside please)  looks perfect but it might also be nice to add the connectors for the buttons and the atty on there to complete the picture?  |
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testdruif
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Post by testdruif on Jan 6, 2014 22:11:41 GMT
Normally the vendor puts 2 years on it.
But stored in a dark place and cool it may/will last longer.
Keep it in topped up brown glass bottles to prevent extended oxigen and light interaction or even store it in a freezer
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testdruif
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Post by testdruif on Jan 6, 2014 22:10:05 GMT
absolutely correct! still 6 amp limit but I'm curious on how it will go (maybe you can do some testing to see how it performs and when exactly it fails) You mean you want him to draw 8 amps and see which blows first, the fuses or the DNA20  Just 7 amps. If one is able... With a single battery and 1.2 ohms at 20 watts i get the "check battery" error suggesting my battery can't deliver |
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testdruif
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Post by testdruif on Jan 6, 2014 21:50:51 GMT
absolutely correct! still 6 amp limit but I'm curious on how it will go (maybe you can do some testing to see how it performs and when exactly it fails) |
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testdruif
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Post by testdruif on Jan 6, 2014 21:42:07 GMT
I can still remember the first 2 pages of the list "why not just use protected batteries" quote from somewhere on the net: The primary difference between the Protected and Unprotected batteries is that the protected batteries have a small circuit board, typically on the bottom of the battery, that stops the charging or discharge of the battery in certain circumstances. Some of the circumstances in which the circuit include: Over-Charge, Over-Discharge, Short-Circuit, and in some cases, overheating. But on the other hand, we now learned more about parallel batteries and where you can put fuses with the positive and the negative effects of both options (fuse wise). Another great thread to keep for future reference for everyone who wants to mess around with fuses |
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testdruif
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Post by testdruif on Jan 6, 2014 21:24:19 GMT
gogo super-shiny if you can Super-Shiny make in depth/detailed pictures of how you fit it all in the box please so I can replicate it and ship it of to china for mass production at a fraction of the cost  |
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testdruif
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Post by testdruif on Jan 6, 2014 21:21:41 GMT
Yes at 8 amps, 4 amps per fuse both 3 amp fuses would blow. So you need to determine the maximum input current you want the device to run at, I think I read earlier the dna20 board was rated at 6 or 7 or 8 amps input max. So if the max is 8 amps then you cold fit 2 4a fuses. Alternatively if the board is rated at 8 amps but you knew from a vaping perspective you would never want to go above a certain wattage that equated to 6 amps input then you could use two 3 amp fuses. As stated earlier with 6 amp fuse total you don't want to actually draw 6 amps as the fuse will blow but marginally below 6 amps is fine indefinitely. Thanks for your insights gregb! The maximum input current for the board itself is 7 watt. So as per your provided information with putting the batteries in parallel they would both provide 3.5 amps (if that would be needed) so having 2 fuses of 3.5 amp (setup as shown in romelee's picture) that would suffice? |
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testdruif
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Post by testdruif on Jan 6, 2014 21:05:34 GMT
in that case, would it not be prudent to have fuses that are capable of handling more than just 3 amp? (otherwise they will short out when using the batteries itself at any type of current) I think your looking at it the wrong way. A fuse is there to blow if current is exceeded to prevent damage to the circuit and associated wiring/ components. I don't understand what you mean by they will short out when using the batteries at any type of current. Think of a house appliance plug, a tablelamp for example. If the instructions say fit a 3 amp fuse and you decided to fit a 13 amp fuse contrary to instructions then this would be unsafe. The lamp wiring, fittings and thermal considerations have been designed around taking no more current than 3 amps, actually more including a safety margin. By installing a 13 amp fuse you could develop a fault on the lamp that caused 10 amps to flow and your 13 amp fuse would never blow resulting in most likely a fire. In terms of fuses to use in the mod I would recommend 2 3a fuses assuming you want to restrict the output to just under 6 amps. If you want to be able to produce just under 7 amps max then two 3.5 amp fuses. I can't say I'm familiar with those square resettable fuses linked earlier but they sound more like a thermal overload than a fuse to me. A thermal overload works by having two metal strips that under normal conditions are touching. If you exceed the trip setting the two strips heat up more and separate breaking the circuit. When they cool down they touch again the "fuse" can carry current again. Seems an odd choice to me as left unattended they keep opening and closing until you intervened, maybe by resettable you have to manually reset them somehow. Its 10 years or so since I worked I the electrical field so maybe they do something different now. If possible I think I would just use a couple of small glass fuses, similar buy physically smaller than those you use in a 3 pin plug. in regards to blowing the fuses when just having one 3a fuse per wire for each battery that would be a trip at 3 amps. if the mod operates at about 4 amp regular use would that not trip the fuses? |
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