doveman
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Post by doveman on Aug 3, 2018 0:47:12 GMT
0.4 would be 0.4mm which is 26AWG wire. There is a difference between unregulated and mechanical mods. Both will output direct voltage from the battery but an unregulated device has safety features built in. An unregulated device will only allow you to draw a set amount of Amps from the battery which will prevent you from overloading the cell assuming the battery Amp rating is the same as or higher than the cut off limit of the protection board. A mechanical device has no protection at all so there is nothing to prevent drawing too many Amps from the battery other than making sure the coil resistance is within the range the battery can cope with.
OK, I should practice making some coils with the 26AWG wire I've already got then. I was thinking the Pico Squeeze was an unregulated mod but I see it's mechanical. I was probably confusing it with the Pico Squeeze 2 which is actually regulated but it's a lot more expensive. The Vapor Storm Raptor is regulated though and about the same price as the Pico Squeeze, so that might be the best option for me to start with.
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doveman
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Post by doveman on Aug 1, 2018 23:36:55 GMT
beedee I actually bought a jig tool and some wire a while back but I think I probably got 32AWG (all it says on the reel is 0.4, 25m so I'm not sure). It's very thin and fiddly so I never really bothered with it and just used the pre-made coils I've got. I will order some thicker wire and try with that. I think I understand the Steam Engine now after Get Off My Cloud explained where I was going wrong but it's a good idea for me to find a video about it, thanks. I'm just being a bit cautious as I've never used an unregulated mod before and I keep reading warnings about ensuring one understands about batteries and ohms law before doing anything, so I want to make sure I'm using the right coils and batteries before I start.
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doveman
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Post by doveman on Aug 1, 2018 23:19:21 GMT
striker42 yeah if those coils will run at 60w that might be a bit much for me, so it's probably best I just buy some wire and make my own to run at a lower wattage. I'll look for some Ni80 and probably get some Kanthal A1 to play with as well. I think I was leaning towards the SS as I read they give great flavour but if it leaves your mouth like bubble wrap that rather puts me off! I see the Samsung 25r's are only 2500mAh, whereas my Efest is 3500mAh. I'm quite comfortable with how long the Efest lasts me, so I don't really want to go for anything lower. I'm guessing that using an unregulated Squonk mod will drain the battery quicker than my regulated mod at 9W does anyway. I just found this rather worrying, albeit 4 year old, thread about Efest batteries though so maybe I should avoid them! www.e-cigarette-forum.com/threads/purple-efest-18650-battery-warning.587759/
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doveman
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Post by doveman on Aug 1, 2018 22:59:40 GMT
Get Off My Cloud , thanks, I understand now. I guess I'd have to measure the diameter of the hole on the coils if I buy them. I'll get some 24AWG wire as you suggest. I'm curious about your target resistance of 0.7ohm as someone told me that the sweet spot (maybe specifically for the Pico Squeeze and Wasp Nano) is generally 0.15ohm-0.4ohms, that at 0.15ohms it puts out ~50w and less at higher ohms, that 0.15ohm runs hot and ramps up quick and 0.35ohm heats slowly and runs cool. If I put the target resistance as 0.35ohm that gives 5 wraps and 16W, which is nearer the 9W I'm currently vaping at but I'm not sure I can really compare the wattage between my current gear and the squonk mod. I'm using these coils at the moment, so maybe it's those that are limiting me to 9W? www.fasttech.com/products/2133108
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Post by doveman on Aug 1, 2018 2:11:03 GMT
I want to buy a Pico Squeeze and a Vapor Storm Raptor, plus the Wasp Nano RDA www.fasttech.com/products/9647956 and probably the Nano RDTA to use with my box mod www.fasttech.com/products/9650419I'll get 50 of these 32 AWG, 0.2mm, 0.26ohm SS Alien Clapton coils to get started with www.fasttech.com/products/9646621 but I want to get some SS Clapton (not necessarily Alien) and A1 Kanthal wire to make my own coils long-term but there's so many options I'm totally lost! I thought that Clapton meant there was a core wire wrapped by a thinner wire but those coils only mention one wire, the 32 AWG. Is this reel of 32 AWG 0.2mm essentially the same thing? www.fasttech.com/products/3361700Assuming I've put in the right figures, Steam Engine reckons I'd need 5 full wraps for a target resistance of 0.35ohm. Does that mean 5 wraps plus the two at each end with the legs, so that picture of the coils from FT would be 3 full wraps and two half wraps? As for the "mod setting" of 1.9W/0.8v is that meant to indicate what settings on a variable regulated mod would produce the same result? With my mod I run it at 9W/2.5v/0.7ohm with a 50:50 mix which doesn't create much in the way of clouds but if I increase the wattage I just get a nasty burnt taste and it hurts my throat. I don't mind though, I'm not really bothered about clouds. I'm just curious why SE says 1.9W and how this relates to the 9W I'm currently vaping at, if at all? As the Squonk mods I'm getting are unregulated I'm just a bit nervous that it will be running at the full 50W and I won't be able to handle it. As for the A1 Kanthal, would all of these be suitable for the mods and RDA I want to get? www.fasttech.com/products/0/10008276/2219904-authentic-kanthal-a1-resistance-wire-forwww.fasttech.com/products/0/10051333/9644182-xfkm-kanthal-a1-heating-wirewww.fasttech.com/products/0/10051189/9643276-coil-father-kanthal-a1-heating-wireThey all say 32 AWG 0.2mm but only the first one gives an ohm rating, 1.15ohm, which seems strange but maybe that's not important. Changing Steam Engine to Kanthal A1 but leaving all the other parameters as for the Clapton gives a result of 1 full wrap, which surely can't be right? Also, will I need to get new batteries for the Squonk mods? I've got a couple of Efest 3500mAh 20A 3.7V but they're probably 2-3 years old now, so maybe they've degraded somewhat.
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doveman
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Post by doveman on Aug 11, 2016 0:23:48 GMT
Yeah, it's probably sensible to have a back-up just in case. In fact, whilst typing this the charger started flashing EE again, like it knew I was writing about it! So I definitely need to order another pronto.
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Post by doveman on Aug 9, 2016 22:26:20 GMT
I went to charge my batteries tonight and found that soon after putting one in it would start flashing EE. Removing the battery, unplugging the USB, trying another battery, nothing worked and I started to panic and look at ordering a replacement urgently.
Then I noticed the USB-Battery Priority switch on the top, which is meant to set whether you want to prioritise charging the batteries or a USB device connected to the USB port on the charger. This was set to Battery already but I switched it to USB and now it's charging OK, so hopefully it will keep working like that. I never use the USB port anyway, so it doesn't really matter what the switch is set to.
I've had a few instances of this flashing EE error before but they've always been fixed by just reinserting the battery or replugging the USB lead, so I just put them down to glitches. Perhaps my unit is somewhat dodgy and this won't happen to anyone else but maybe this will help if it does.
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Post by doveman on May 29, 2016 22:57:43 GMT
Well I got fed up with it again this afternoon as it started only firing for anywhere between 0.3-2s before cutting out again, so I took it apart again and examined it properly. As you can see in this photo, it seems like part of the insulation ring has burnt away. I thought it might just be crud on top of the ring but I carefully scraped it away to find there was no ring left in that area. Happily though, after scraping the crud away, it's working normally again now and fires for as long as I hold the button Still I'll be glad when I receive the extra RBA atty and the Crius tank so that I have some alternatives in future.
Thanks for all the advice guys, it will help me setup my coils better, diagnose any future problems quicker and maybe even help me avoid damaging any more hardware.
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Post by doveman on May 29, 2016 11:16:50 GMT
I think you may have a short somewhere in your RBA base, as the Nautilus works fine (have you tried other atomisers?) it would not appear to be your device. They are pretty cheap to replace, or put a wanted advert in the Classifieds section, there is a good chance that someone will sell you one if you wnt to get one quickly. The Subtank and the Nautilus are the only two tanks I have that fit the Cloupor but as you say, the Nautilus works so the problem was clearly the RBA. Thanks for the tip, I might look for someone selling a s/h one as it will be a while before the RBA I ordered from FT (along with a Crius tank, so I'll have another tank I can use if I run into problems in future) get here.
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Post by doveman on May 29, 2016 11:12:19 GMT
If it's firing with no coil in then clearly you some kind of short or at least low resistance path. Based on what you've said I'd suggest you strip the RBA down to its component parts and clean them all thourougly and check none of your insulators have melted. Thank. I didn't realise the RBA could be stripped down but after reading your post I looked into it and found the bottom post with the holes in it unscrews, so I stripped it down and gave everything a quick wash. It's sort of working now. Without the coil it showed "Check atomiser" as expected and with the coil it fires now but cuts out after 2-3s. I've got two Cloupor minis and have set both to 4v/20w. When I fire it, the readout shows 0.51ohm and 3.20v. On my older, black, Cloupor the tank worked straight away but on my newer, silver, one I had to loosen the screw on the Cloupur by a couple of turns (it's fully tightened on the black one) to stop it showing "Check atomiser", which is a bit strange as it worked before with the screw tightened. At least I can get some hits with it now though, even if they only last 3s and don't have to keep using the leaky OCC coil or the bad tasting Nautilus
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Post by doveman on May 29, 2016 9:32:41 GMT
I'm having a weird problem with my Subtank RBA. One evening, after working normally all day, it started firing for only 0.3s and then cutting out. Even though I'd only changed the coil a few days before, I thought I'd fit a new one but that didn't help and it was reading as "shorted" or "low resistance" but the coil certainly wasn't making contact with anything it shouldn't. Then I found even with no coil at all, it would fire briefly and a puff of vapour would come out of, or from somewhere near to, one of the screw holes in the posts (I'd removed the screws completely at this point)! I thought the post that has a bit of play to it might be shorted to the other, fixed, post by gunk where the gap between them should be, so I cleared that area with a thin blade until I could see a clear gap but that didn't help. Testing it again yesterday, still without a coil fitted, I noticed that it fires for 0.3s and reads 0.6-0.7ohm whilst producing a puff of vapour! If I fire it again straight away it doesn't always produce a puff but if I leave 5-10s between it seems to. I've been using my Nautilus for a few days as I had a new atty for that lying around but it seems to have worn out/got gunked up already and doesn't taste great anymore. I then switched to using one of the used Subtank OCC coils I kept, which was OK for a few days but now the juice is leaking a lot, so I might have to resort to my old Spinner and mini Protank to keep me going but that's going to be a pain after using my Cloupor mini with larger/better tanks, so if I can fix my RBA somehow that would be nice. I've ordered a new mini RBA Plus from FT www.fasttech.com/products/0/10014112/2390700-authentic-kangertech-subtank-mini-rba-plus-coil and some OCC coils from Amazon but both could take a while to get here (obviously the OCC coils should get here first but I haven't received confirmation of dispatch yet).
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Post by doveman on May 29, 2016 8:44:19 GMT
Good price but I don't really want to buy 100 as 5 would probably last me a year and I've got enough stuff cluttering up my flat as it is!
I looked on FT but the reviews of their syringes with needles say that the needles are useless for e-liquid, that the syringes don't accept standard needles that we might buy elsewhere and FT don't seem to sell any needles separately which would fit. I don't need needles for the nicotine, as I decant that into a 100ml tub which makes it easy to draw up, but I do need needles for the flavours.
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Post by doveman on May 26, 2016 20:25:53 GMT
Yeah, I've found the Plastipak syringes to be the best as well. Had some 10ml green ones which I think were intended for refilling inkjet print cartridges and they soon started sticking.
I bought a few glass syringes but didn't like them at all, partly because the plungers are rather loose and come out completely if you're not careful and they're also quite heavy and combined with being fragile it just makes mixing a more nerve-racking experience. In addition they seem to get deposits stuck inside them from one or two uses, which makes them sticky/gritty in places so I guess they need to come apart easily so that they can be cleaned but I don't have this problem with my Plastipak syringes so it's easier to just use those. The 1ml glass syringes I bought have blue plungers which is a daft idea as it makes it very hard to see the markings.
I did buy the measuring cylinders as well but as I suspected, I find it much easier to get the right amount of VG and PG in the 50ml syringes. The cylinders can be useful when I need to measure out 5ml of flavour rather than pouring the entire 10ml into a 100ml mix though, as using them tends to be a bit easier/quicker than syringing 5ml out of the bottle.
Thankfully I found an atty for the Nautilus today, so that's tiding me over for now and hasn't been leaking so far. If I get desperate I've got a few iClear heads for my smaller tanks.
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Post by doveman on May 26, 2016 3:59:39 GMT
Woops, missed the last couple of posts somehow Thanks for the suggestions nanotm The crius looks like a pretty good topfill tank and the through-hole coil posts should be easier than the subtanks screw-down posts hopefully, as I find those quite fiddly. Must just be me, as everyone else seems to like them but I pretty much have to undo the screws all the way to wrap the legs around them, which runs the risk of the tiny screws falling off and getting lost. I find I have to wrap the legs around the screws as if I just lie them under one side of the screw with the end pointing outwards, it's difficult to cut them close enough to prevent the end shorting against the metal cover. Once I've got one end screwed down it's easier to do the other one but I always seem to end up with the coil rather badly postioned and twisted and I have to put the screwdriver through the centre of the coil to try and push/twist it into a better position. My subtank RBA is playing up at the moment anyway. It was working fine all day but in the evening I noticed it was firing for a couple of seconds and then cutting out. I'd only changed the coil recently but tried fitting a new one, only to find it reporting as "shorted" or "low resistance". It certainly wasn't making contact with anything it shouldn't. Then I found even with no coil at all, it would fire briefly and a puff of vape would come out of one of the screw holes in the posts (I'd removed the screws completely at this point)! I thought the post that has a bit of play to it might be shorted to the other, fixed, post by gunk where the gap between them should be, so I cleared that area with a thin blade until I could see a clear gap but that didn't help. I've ended up using one of the old OCC coils I kept, which is pretty much worn out but I'm desperate as I don't have any other tanks I can use at the moment. I've got a Nautilus that my friend gave me but I never got on with that (I think it leaked on me) and I think I gave him the coils back. I've got a couple of Spinners and I think I've got some heads for those somewhere but I'll have to dig around tomorrow to try and find them and order some OCC coils for the subtank urgently to keep me going. I might buy a spare RBA head too as there's this somewhat improved Mini RBA Plus www.fasttech.com/products/0/10014112/2390700-authentic-kangertech-subtank-mini-rba-plus-coil I think I'll get the triple pack stainless steel subtank topfill replacement kit that you bought as well. I've got no interest in a smaller tank than I've currently got, so won't use the 3.5ml one but I'm interested to try the 9ml one as I'd prefer to refill less often even with a topfill. It's a bit annoying they only sell these 4.5ml ones with the clear tanks in a 4-pack www.fasttech.com/products/3023/10014944/3820004 as I don't like the coloured tanks they sell individually because they just make it harder to see how much juice you've got left. The 7ml Subtank Plus might have been interesting if it was a topfill and it might have other issues I don't know about.
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Post by doveman on Apr 12, 2016 23:25:29 GMT
Hi. You don't say what resistance coils you are using in your RBA but the D2 doesn't step down in voltage mode. So basicly with sub ohm coils it is going mechanical via the board by giving full battery voltage ie; a 0.5ohm coil and freshly charged battery at 4.2v gives you 35w even if the display says 20w. Something I found out after putting a 0.3ohm mini clapton in my subtank RBA .... 58W If you were unaware of this the way around it is to set the D2 to titanium mode, max temp and use joules as watts. I wouldn't recommend the TFV4. a) its a big lump, even more so on the D2 b) the stock coils need more than 75w c) the TF-R1 rba isn't particularly good, the layout of the deck means that you end up with long legs on the coils and I don't think it wicks particularly well. The clapton rba, TF-RCA is more like the subtank, much better but an extra. d) they leak, the coil/rba seals are prone to leaks or just falling off as you put it back together and if you thought subtank wicking was a pain the TFV is a real messy swine to strip down and fix e) its not very good with flavour, clouds yes but definitely mehhhh on the flavour front. If you are set on a Smok perhaps the TFVmini? same size as the subtank and with the same problems but it comes with the 'clapton' rba, its only saving grace Thanks for the advice about the D2. I haven't really used it yet so it's all a bit new to me! I'm using 0.5ohm coils in my Subtank Mini. I'm not particularly set on a Smok, it was just something someone suggested but looking at it, it doesn't seem any easier to build on than my Subtank Mini (the top fill hole is nice though). So I'm open to other suggestions for a tank for the D2 but I don't have to use it if there's a better tank for my Cloupor that's easier to build on or will produce better clouds without sacrificing the flavour.
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