Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on May 25, 2015 19:55:13 GMT
I've gone for the 12Volt version, the usb powered one shouldn't be powered by a PC so it's no real benefit with that option, plus I've loads of 12V adapters all over the place. I've a couple of fans coming from ebay too, one's a spare. Little question VapingBad. I can't see anywhere if the IR test is AC or DC, I assume it'll be DC?
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Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on May 25, 2015 19:13:50 GMT
It's not such a concern with a good battery phatfil. The AWT 18650 had an IR of 76 milliohms and was a worry. I have the 18350 from JacVapour and thats measuring 27milliohms. An 18350 that wipes the floor with an 18650 in that respect. I'd happily vape a 0.5ohm coil on that with no worry.
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Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on May 25, 2015 7:58:36 GMT
The issue of internal heat has always been a concern of mine, and as I've seen the IR of high discharge cells rise it's becoming even more so. A cell that feels just slightly warm could be a lot hotter at the point the chemistry (and the damage) is happening. We don't often have direct access to feel for this heat either, the construction of newer mods is making the access time a lot longer - giving time for the heat to dissipate into the mod's case. It's a 'can of worms' I've opened isn't it? But the hidden benefit from all this will be a cross reference of GOOD rewraps, after all there are some good cells hidden out there (take the purple efest 35Amp). For a lot of it I'll be taking results from reliable testers, including my own results where I can (I can't buy them all). It's one thing referring to a database, or a list of numbers, but actual results can vary greatly from specs, and not always for the worse. I use a 4 wire IR tester from FT for £18 IIRC & a charger that tests IR to be able to spot batteries degrading and spot a fake, it is good test when the battery fails, but only part of the picture for a good battery. That's the one I've been looking into, only found it on FT late last night, seems very reliable. But I've only read that, so I ordered. i'm already looking into uprating the output to 45Watts for 10Amp testing. And it's good to know I'm not the only one keeps a database of my batteries
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Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on May 25, 2015 7:44:07 GMT
Silicone takes the win in my mind. Any rubber o-rings would have to be 'food grade' or you risk nasties leeching into your juice - this bumps the price up - silicone is a lot less volatile.
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Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on May 25, 2015 7:39:19 GMT
I've ticked the 'zero nic' option because that is my intention. In reality I know I'm going to vape for a long time after I get to zero, it's just so nice.
I do see myself giving it up at some point, but why rush eh??
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Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on May 24, 2015 20:41:27 GMT
Thats quite a good find, pity the window for the Sx screen is already cut as it could have provided a platform for other builds. Or if the window had been lower..... a squonker!That's what I thought as soon as I saw it. Maybe extend it for a tight fitting bottle (no need to remove the lid to refill). Wouldn't leave much space for a board though. Maybe a mosfet? I'm out of my territory here, I'll get back in the box.........
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Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on May 24, 2015 20:34:37 GMT
Is his mod misbehaving collie2011? Try swapping mods for ten mins. That's what I'd look at. if the mod is misreading the ohms for whatever reason it could be overpowering the atty. If it has an ohms readout check it a few times. Give both the 510 on the atty and on the mod a good clean and check again. I mix my red astaire at 85%VG and don't have issues with any atty, Subtank mini at 30Watts with the rebuildable deck at 0.5 ohms (pancake wicks/open coils) and sweet as sugar - unless it's chilly in the room or I use it outside in the cold Oh, what mod is it?? (should always ask) ETA: Are you dry burning the coils to clean them before rewicking - crud attracts crud
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Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on May 24, 2015 12:33:52 GMT
Okay. Any of you guys made a decision yet? I'm going to keep mine close to my chest for now - it could be hurtful to the vendor. lol It's the CSI in me. Won't let go til I have the answer The true specs for the size of this 18650 is 66.5mm x 18.5mm dia. Explains the size problem. The button cap is tack welded straight onto the original positive contact. Mine is slightly longer due to the button cap being tacked on skew-wiff. Does that ring any bells?
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Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on May 24, 2015 11:43:06 GMT
Okay. Any of you guys made a decision yet? I'm going to keep mine close to my chest for now - it could be hurtful to the vendor.
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Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on May 24, 2015 10:36:13 GMT
No rippers here mucker, just a good RSM style bollocking (where needed) I wasn't a good boy, ROP may mean something completely different
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Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on May 24, 2015 10:31:01 GMT
Gearbest?? How about a basic 4-wire tester for less than £20? Just doing some checks regards the accuracy (it's Chinese, with Chinglish instructions) but it's looking good. Even then a simple calibration would simply mean passing a battery to compare results.
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Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on May 24, 2015 10:09:04 GMT
@tedster making a hunch, you a mucker, or just worked with squaddies?? The latter, ex staffy Your humour gives it away thumb up 14 yrs a Sapper, can spot a mile off
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Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on May 24, 2015 10:06:59 GMT
So I'm thinking that these batteries may be ok......IF.....we recognise they are probably 20A batteries. Ripshod - I have 4 of these on the way........do you have testing kit? I could send you 2 of them. I've already tested 2 samples and got the poor results I did. The point is not the actual results, you may well have a couple of cells less than 30 milliohms - all well and good. The point is the consistency, and the lottery that is buying these AWTs (quoted spec better than 80milliohms, my best result 72milliohms, Norberts best 40milliohms). My battery produces nearly twice the internal heat of Norbert's. If you want a true measurement I'll do it. In the interests of science I'll cover postage
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Post by Ripshod on May 24, 2015 9:59:51 GMT
IR is not a definitive yardstick, the same as nothing else is. But as battery Currents rise it's becoming more and more important with regards to voltage sag at higher currents, and internal heating of a battery. Many choose to just go for the 200-300 cycles, or when a mod rejects a battery a lot earlier than it used to. All the things that affect a batteries life are factored in when we use 2.5Volts to work out the battery needed for a regulated mod. It includes a certain amount of headroom for the changes to a battery for it's useful lifetime. It's not been mentioned before because this whole thing is a massive can of worms, but in regards to degredation, mech users are on their own. They have to learn to spot the subtle changes before they become a problem. But by the nature of the beast, mech users are buying new batteries a lot more often. I've gone through 3 full sets of batteries in the last 12 months, not because they're dying but because I'm looking for better. If I was to make a guide that included everything about batteries it would take a week to read and would double the size of the forums (besides taking a couple of years to compile and proof read). I consider IR an important enough subject to bring it to peeps' attention now, and to help them protect themselves. @scooby, thatguy your points have been taken in, and appreciated. There will be some information included, but I'm already having to restrict myself. And I have to admit I'll have to research a little further myself, it's something I've been ignoring myself I'm not being flippant about it, just realistic. I will probably include some links to the Battery University with regards some of the tougher material.
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Post by Ripshod on May 24, 2015 9:34:19 GMT
So for the 35Amp they tested:
A lot better than the result I had, but still a lot higher than I'd expect for a 22Amp battery. Worst case would be 1.1Watts of heat inside the cell @ 22 Amps.
I'm still not convinced. That's not a 'dangerous' battery. But I won't be using these I have for sure.
There's still a chance someone could buy a 35 with an IR of 0.075 Ohms (within the spec) and expect to be safe using it at 35Amps.
Sorry Norbert, there's the chance of an accident here. Things were good at the start, the everyone started competing with the numbers.
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