Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on May 24, 2015 9:17:37 GMT
We have to resign ourselves to the fact that wrappers and vendors are going to continue quoting the peak current - cos high numbers sell. That will never change.
So long as we help peeps understand that then we're doing the right thing. Obviously there will always be those that ignore the free advice, wanting to trust the vendors because 'they know more about the batteries they're selling than a few enthusiastic battery users'. That's the way it should be - in an ideal world.
Peeps new to vaping don't appreciate that the battery is potentially the most dangerous piece of kit most of them will ever hold in their hand
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Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on May 24, 2015 9:12:10 GMT
Added to my post above, you 'd me kreed
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Post by Ripshod on May 24, 2015 9:04:52 GMT
So we have something solid to go on: It's a 20Amper - another rewrapper overspeccing (another of my bug-bears). Don't know about you kreed, to me they're just repeating info from elsewhere and haven't actually done any tests yet. Tells me the same thing - zero results, we're still testing. I'll be watching this, but I've got a feeling they may be 'cherry picking' for some decent results. A lie, they've already stated they haven't tested capacity yet. You know the more I look at ecolux the less I'm liking them. No disrespect but to put contradicting information like that is a massive boo-boo!
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Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on May 24, 2015 7:58:16 GMT
@tedster making a hunch, you a mucker, or just worked with squaddies??
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Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on May 24, 2015 7:44:40 GMT
I'm glad it's not just me. May have been sounding like a fixation to other members, but as battery current goes up IR becomes more and more important.
You brought up the 25R, my spec sheet agrees, should have a an IR better than 30 milliohms. What you'd expect from a 20Amp battery right?
Then along comes the AWT claiming 35Amps with an IR of better than 80 milliohms. That is just so wrong, and in my mind bl**dy irresponsible. The two I received tested at 72 and 76 milliohms, whilst others have received samples which seem a lot more capable, but not confirmed by testing. Some kind of consistency problem there! 80 milliohms tells me they're expecting to sell poor cells, and/or they don't know where the next batch will actually be coming from.
My AWTs are now resigned to a life in the head torch.
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Post by Ripshod on May 23, 2015 23:09:36 GMT
I love Monster Melons, but not the price. Nice find!!!!! thumb up
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Post by Ripshod on May 23, 2015 22:56:05 GMT
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Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on May 23, 2015 22:43:34 GMT
To be honest I haven't tried a great deal, apart from some ecig branded juice! I do like sweeter ones, fruit ones as well, but as I say I need to get out and try a few more. I'll check my vape drawer and I can throw in a few of my own too. I'm new to mixing but it'll give you a feel for what you can easily mix for yourself! I must mention I'm just trying to pass on the kind of help and generosity shown to me by the forum members on here in the hope that in the fullness of time you can do the same for someone else! aaaaaw {wipes tear from eye}
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Post by Ripshod on May 23, 2015 22:04:45 GMT
Welcome aboard relic. I see glen has already warned you, so no excuse
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Post by Ripshod on May 23, 2015 21:19:49 GMT
If you are using a regulated mod with Kanthal it is nearly always better not to subOhm. Put a 1.5 Ohm coil on your AWTs and you're absolutely fine at 50 Watts. The nature of electrickery means that with a regulated mod, whether you use a 1.5ohm or 0.5ohm coil you'll still be pulling the same current from the battery at the same power, plus or minus a little bit for losses.
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Post by Ripshod on May 23, 2015 19:39:28 GMT
There's a few been confuddled by that one. 'PCB over temperature protection' just protects the internal board from overheating. 'Temperature Control' - when it actually works - varies the power to your coil, to prevent overheating and burning.
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Post by Ripshod on May 23, 2015 18:53:38 GMT
It will be a great achievement if you pull it all off Ripshod considering the amount of work involved I'll happily help out if I can Appreciated. I may call on you thumb up
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Post by Ripshod on May 23, 2015 18:27:28 GMT
Sounds like a poor contact between the battery and the charger. Give the contacts a good clean with a cotton bud and isopropyl alcohol (or nail varnish remover if you haven't any alcohol), let them dry for about 15 minutes then test again. The battery may take more charge, it may not.
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Post by Ripshod on May 23, 2015 18:22:01 GMT
Great suggestion re the vendors guide kreed. hijack has already done a buying guide, I hope to expand that and include it, er..... later First thing is to make a shortlist from all the suggestions in the other thread, to include the most popular and safe vfm batteries there are (obviously I won't be able to cover them all). Any found to be unsuitable will not be included to avoid any confusion, rewraps will be in a separate cross-reference list to include batteries like the 35Amp (20Amp) efest. Where possible I'll provide links to specifications/pdf (those I can source) for anyone that wants them. It certainly isn't gonna happen overnight, more in stages. The Power Chart is the first project. Thanks for the support everyone, I feel I'm gonna need it
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Post by Ripshod on May 23, 2015 14:04:40 GMT
I like the Keeppowers myself, mainly because Panasonic like them. Good to have some 26650s too, thank you @jc72
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