womble
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Post by womble on Nov 12, 2012 22:44:36 GMT
That's it, thankyou perps.
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Ron
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Post by Ron on Nov 12, 2012 23:16:16 GMT
Mine is turning into a knightmare. Spent ages making a wick, made coil with drill bit, hot spot (x 5), then shorts, so re did wick, shorts seemed to cause my provari to put out waaaay more than the 3v I was burning in coils with and broke 3 before I worked it out, by burning out 2 vivi novas. After leaving the provari for a couple of hours, it seemed to get back to normal voltages. Re oxidized wick a few times, burnt off 6 loads of juice on it. Built new coil, E1 short, provari on next try threw out again a massive voltage, this time on the FG wick I'd thrown in out of desperation. So now I'm vaping the FG wick (Meh, it's ok) on my LT and wondering where it all went wrong. Is this worth people considering ? www.safercigs.co.uk/Short_Stop/p705283_7975644.aspx
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womble
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Post by womble on Nov 12, 2012 23:23:11 GMT
One of the main points of a provari, is that this sort of thing shouldn't be needed. I'm almost afraid to use my provari on a mesh wick now
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DiscoDes
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Post by DiscoDes on Nov 12, 2012 23:28:25 GMT
Not really that's for mechanical mods, the Provari has short circuit protection built in so is therefore pointless. Womble, if it's any consolation I too have been having a mare setting up my AGA-T. Hotspots! don't talk to me about hotspots! I was trying to get mine to work and kept getting loads of different E otputs on my Provari, E1, E2, E8!? I re-moved my last failure, took a couple of wraps off my mesh wick (rolled using Blakey's method with a center hole) so it was more loose in the hole, re-oxidesed it amd got some 0.20 wire (thanks Skwoddy) bent the mesh so it almost touches the center post etc..... and I have it going; though I'd say it's only 7 out of 10 for vapour/taste and still I have a small hotspot at the top. I'm going to try the Rizla method shown in Scott's video above as I think I'm still getting a bit of shorting from the mesh/coil/body even though it's working. I think this is why the Provari keeps throwing up all sorts of error messages. The resistance is jumping about a bit fom 1.5 ohms to 2.5 ohms..... it's a PITA!
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womble
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Post by womble on Nov 12, 2012 23:36:46 GMT
I'm not happy with the way I rolled my wick Des, I used a method which involves turning over the edge which the wick touches, so it gets a straight line, I think this is too much of a bump to be good where the coil touches it. But I don't understand why the wick doesn't appear to be wicking properly (just tried Macca's test) and why I'm getting so many shorts, I oxidized it more than the amount of times you are supposed to. Something seems to be going wrong with my basic work Mmm, try another wick tomorrow I think. Getting only one sheet of 500 mesh seems a little short sighted Narrow boat Rodger? As my nearest expert, I may need to descend on you for help!
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womble
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Post by womble on Nov 12, 2012 23:38:21 GMT
Has anyone tried the solid mesh wick btw? Mine seemed to turn into one after I kept trying to keep it all together, but after reading the thread linking to before, I didn't think it was a problem. Indeed it seems to be a better way (apparently )
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DiscoDes
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Post by DiscoDes on Nov 12, 2012 23:41:54 GMT
I did't turn the edge over, I'm using the 500 and it seems to wick well. Do you have a multimeter Womble by any chance? You could see if you're getting a short between your wick and the AGA-T body. As I said above I think the Rizla method may help I'm also considering using this (though not burning it off) around the wick where it passes through the body.
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DiscoDes
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Post by DiscoDes on Nov 12, 2012 23:44:15 GMT
Has anyone tried the solid mesh wick btw? Mine seemed to turn into one after I kept trying to keep it all together, but after reading the thread linking to before, I didn't think it was a problem. Indeed it seems to be a better way (apparently ) I rolled mine around a needle to keep the centre hole.
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OneDay
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Post by OneDay on Nov 12, 2012 23:50:24 GMT
I've made a solid from 45x60 with the bottom cut at 45 degrees and it wicks lovely. Just need to get a coil that works properly now
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womble
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Post by womble on Nov 12, 2012 23:52:09 GMT
I did't turn the edge over, I'm using the 500 and it seems to wick well. Do you have a multimeter Womble by any chance? You could see if you're getting a short between your wick and the AGA-T body. As I said above I think the Rizla method may help I'm also considering using this (though not burning it off) around the wick where it passes through the body. Yeah the rizla method looks a really good way of getting another layer of carbon where you need it. I hadn't thought of putting a rizla round the area where it goes through the body. I oxidized my wick well (or so I thought) the 1st time and ran the multimeter over it and was surprised to find it still conducted. I must be doing something wrong with the oxidizing. Yet I did what I was supposed to and heated the coil to cherry red, then quenched in water, several times. Maybe there is a better way of doing it, or maybe I'm getting something fundamental wrong.
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womble
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Post by womble on Nov 12, 2012 23:53:58 GMT
I've made a solid from 45x60 with the bottom cut at 45 degrees and it wicks lovely. Just need to get a coil that works properly now I made a mistake with mine, I accidentally bent it where it goes through the wick hole and it doesn't seem to wick well through this bend. Even though I bent it straight again. Something that may help someone else.
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womble
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Post by womble on Nov 12, 2012 23:56:13 GMT
Just thought of something else (sorry I'll stop monopolising this thread now ), when I tested the wick ala Macca, mine popped an awful lot, his didn't. What does this mean?
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Post by domesticextremist on Nov 13, 2012 0:09:22 GMT
I did't turn the edge over, I'm using the 500 and it seems to wick well. Do you have a multimeter Womble by any chance? You could see if you're getting a short between your wick and the AGA-T body. As I said above I think the Rizla method may help I'm also considering using this (though not burning it off) around the wick where it passes through the body. Yeah the rizla method looks a really good way of getting another layer of carbon where you need it. I hadn't thought of putting a rizla round the area where it goes through the body. I oxidized my wick well (or so I thought) the 1st time and ran the multimeter over it and was surprised to find it still conducted. I must be doing something wrong with the oxidizing. Yet I did what I was supposed to and heated the coil to cherry red, then quenched in water, several times. Maybe there is a better way of doing it, or maybe I'm getting something fundamental wrong. I tend to oxidise my mesh before rolling it. I do this on the gas hob, heating to a dull orange. I hold it there for a good 20 seconds per side, turning and doing each side at least twice so the bits where the tweezers were get oxidised too. Then I roll the wick and char it with juice three or more times, till its good and black. I had too many problems with shorts when oxidising a prerolled wick so adapted to this way after reading about the jack frost method.
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womble
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Post by womble on Nov 13, 2012 1:42:18 GMT
So many methods LOL
Thanks domestic, I may try that as well.
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maccafan
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Post by maccafan on Nov 13, 2012 6:05:38 GMT
Just thought of something else (sorry I'll stop monopolising this thread now ), when I tested the wick ala Macca, mine popped an awful lot, his didn't. What does this mean? Just douse it with some spare juice and set it alight a couple of times..The carbonation will get the wicking going better and it will not pop and spit so much..
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