WANTED : Conductive glue

[mybad]

Pop the top back on , nip round to welding shop and get them to put a couple of blobs tig weld on it then smooth it off, job done.

[lazydog]

bit of wet and dry paper to clean the inside on the tube and a few scrapes of solder just enough to make it a tight fit solder will stick enough to do this but you may have to use the thicker part of the iron or turn the temp up if its adjustable.

[Moggy]

Spoke to my cousin earlier, he has some epoxy metal which 'may' be stainless steel compatible. Have to wait til Monday to find out...

[womble]

Stick the tube on the table and hit it with the palm of your hand, it will deform slightly, fit the head, job done, add superglue if you desire. You don't need conductive glue.

Ahhh, I'm too sensible for this forum!

[Deleted]

From day one the head on my ss Vamo simply pull off with my fingers and I sometimes although very rarely get the 02 error then it turns off, twist the head a little and its ok again for ages. I forget myself sometimes though and pull it off when I remove my driptip to drip into my Igo-L. I am going to buy some of this stuff to sort mine out, well hopefully anyway.

[robby]

Apr 20, 2013 1:10:26 GMT @simate said:

From day one the head on my ss Vamo simply pull off with my fingers and I sometimes although very rarely get the 02 error then it turns off, twist the head a little and its ok again for ages. I forget myself sometimes though and pull it off when I remove my driptip to drip into my Igo-L. I am going to buy some of this stuff to sort mine out, well hopefully anyway.

Nice find! @simate

[Deleted]

Apr 20, 2013 1:16:13 GMT robby said:

Apr 20, 2013 1:10:26 GMT @simate said:

From day one the head on my ss Vamo simply pull off with my fingers and I sometimes although very rarely get the 02 error then it turns off, twist the head a little and its ok again for ages. I forget myself sometimes though and pull it off when I remove my driptip to drip into my Igo-L. I am going to buy some of this stuff to sort mine out, well hopefully anyway.

Nice find! @simate

I didn't find it lol. Moggy did in reply #5

[philh]

Hi,
What about the stuff they sell to repair the heated rear screen on cars. It's like a thick silver paint that dries hard.
Phil

[Moggy]

Apr 20, 2013 14:37:22 GMT philh said:

Hi,
What about the stuff they sell to repair the heated rear screen on cars. It's like a thick silver paint that dries hard.
Phil

I saw that searching this morning, was wondering how thick you can paint it on.

My concerns were whether it will stick to stainless steel or not.

[philh]

Apr 20, 2013 14:40:30 GMT Moggy said:

Apr 20, 2013 14:37:22 GMT philh said:

Hi,
What about the stuff they sell to repair the heated rear screen on cars. It's like a thick silver paint that dries hard.
Phil

I saw that searching this morning, was wondering how thick you can paint it on.

My concerns were whether it will stick to stainless steel or not.

Hi,
It sticks to glass as long as it's clean so it should stick to ss.
Phil

[Moggy]

Apr 21, 2013 13:36:41 GMT philh said:

Apr 20, 2013 14:40:30 GMT Moggy said:

I saw that searching this morning, was wondering how thick you can paint it on.

My concerns were whether it will stick to stainless steel or not.

Hi,
It sticks to glass as long as it's clean so it should stick to ss.
Phil

I mean "stick" as in glue together. I've seen they do a glue for the little tab that the heater element connects to...all possibles

Thanks for the reply.

[philh]

Hi,
How about painting a few stripes, top to bottom, and putting a drop of super glue between the stripes?
Phil

[Moggy]

Went to some hardware and auto-spares places this morning, the heated rear window repair paint has "no adhesive properties". Bah.

[Moggy]

All fixed, foil commonly used with bridging fibreglass (not tearing) and a lick of bonding compound. Firing up instantly, no voltage drop and a minimum of loss through the top joint. Think it's even better now than my other one

Do I need 2 ?

[robby]

Apr 22, 2013 22:03:26 GMT Moggy said:

All fixed, foil commonly used with bridging fibreglass (not tearing) and a lick of bonding compound. Firing up instantly, no voltage drop and a minimum of loss through the top joint. Think it's even better now than my other one

Do I need 2 ?

Brilliant mate, well done