Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on Jul 6, 2014 18:52:02 GMT
Although not intended as a guide, I thought I'd put down a few tips for both the newbies, and the more experienced that don't already know.
First we'll cover the 510 connector on your battery/mod. This is definitely one that comes with experience, so a must-read for newbies:
Don't over-tighten. We already know that different atties compress the 510 connector by different amounts. If you overtighten an atty with a longer than normal connector it can over-compress and damage the 510 connector on your mod/battery. It doesn't need to be screwed right down. It's best to screw it on til it makes connection, then no more than 1/2 a turn more. To get rid of a gap make use of the top ring or the beauty ring to close that gap and give added support to a larger atty. This is also relevant to the charger for ego batteries. Plug the charger into your mains adapter first - green light, then screw the battery onto the charger til the battery's light flashes - red light, then 1/2 turn more and that's it. The 2 above tips will help prevent damage to the connector itself.
The battery:
The lithium batteries used inside ego batteries, and the ones we use in our mods are many generations improved over the old ni-cads. There is NO memory effect. Simply put, you don't have to worry about waiting til it's flat to charge it. You can charge them at any time, and you can also remove from the charger and use if it's not fully charged. Having said that it's good practice to run a battery completely flat (3.2V for regulated mods) and give a full charge weekly. If a battery goes below 2.5V for any reason don't attempt to charge it, dispose of it properly according to your local waste regulations and WEEE guidelines.
Gurgling:
I've noticed with many of the tanks I've used that filling them is okay, but refilling or topping up makes them gurgle. What I know is: When we first fill them the wick is dry, so it can absorb enough juice to build up a vacuum in the tank. The problem when refilling or topping up is there's no space in a wet wick for this fluid to go so it floods your head. A good tip for protanks and others where the wick is accessible is to use a paper towel to soak as much juice as possible from the wick before reassembling. This works 100% for my aerotanks/evods.
These are just a few of the things I've learned in 3 months. Now any newbies reading this will have a 3 month advantage, and will save more in the long run.
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Clivia
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Post by Clivia on Jul 6, 2014 18:56:50 GMT
regarding the gurgling : do a few quick sharp puffs without firing that clears the air bubbles and helps
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hijack
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Post by hijack on Jul 7, 2014 5:38:55 GMT
Some good tips Ripshod. I think with the gurgling problem you have it spot on. This happens a lot to me when I use my protanks ect. They rely on a vacume to hold back the juice and when you refill, the vacuum is lost, and to get it back means some juice has to flow into the coil area until that vacuum is restored. So for me that's good advice when refilling, to soak up as much juice around the wicks and atty as you can before putting back together.
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PinkyPuff
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Post by PinkyPuff on Jul 7, 2014 5:51:36 GMT
Thanks for the tips Was wondering about batteries as I see hubby charge them whenever he wants (and don't forget to check if your coil is tight before screw all back together)
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Montana
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Post by Montana on Jul 7, 2014 8:35:24 GMT
Don't over-tighten. We already know that different atties compress the 510 connector by different amounts. If you overtighten an atty with a longer than normal connector it can over-compress and damage the 510 connector on your mod/battery. It doesn't need to be screwed right down. It's best to screw it on til it makes connection, then no more than 1/2 a turn more. To get rid of a gap make use of the top ring or the beauty ring to close that gap and give added support to a larger atty. This is also relevant to the charger for ego batteries. Plug the charger into your mains adapter first - green light, then screw the battery onto the charger til the battery's light flashes - red light, then 1/2 turn more and that's it. The 2 above tips will help prevent damage to the connector itself. I can vouch for this ( have a look at my thread HERE ) as it's happened to me , BUT sometimes the combination of certain tanks and mods , or even just a particular tank being a few micons to long and pushing down the pin in the battery/mod , because the tank gets nowhere near the beauty ring/top cap and seems to loose so you end up tighten it a bit more so it's secure and you eventually end up with a short warning.Then when you realise you can undo the beauty ring/top cap to secure the tank.To me though this isn't satisfactory and should NEVER be needed to be done.I put a solution ( well it wasn't me , it was something I saw ) in my thread and that is having a sprung loaded pin so you can never have a pin pushing problem , and the only mod I've seen that on is the Sigelei 20W , more manufacturers need to do this.Then the ONLY way you can get problems is by WAY overtightening the tank and striping the threads but that is difficult to do and your fingers should tell you that it's tight before you strip the threads.
Andy
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robby
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Post by robby on Jul 7, 2014 10:04:51 GMT
If you are using cotton wool for wicks, when you want to replace them, dry burn them till they produce smoke (no need to get them VERY hot), then another quick burn and the wick pulls apart at the coil very easily. Why? it saves you straining the coil/wick. Especially important if you use NR/R/NR coils,the legs can come off easily. Then a few dry burns and you are ready to put some new wick in.
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ruffdog
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Post by ruffdog on Jul 7, 2014 10:25:51 GMT
Montana SVD has a spring pin connector.
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