DNA30 box mod

[VapingBad]

Jul 21, 2014 18:12:18 GMT Super-Shiny said:

davetherayon i used these fuses x 2 with the legs cut down short and soldered together: TE Connectivity 6A Radial Leaded PCB Mount Resettable Fuse, 16V

Two of them will give you 12amps which is what is needed for the DNA30, this is based on a single battery not parallel batteries.

Personally I don't see the point unless they help give reverse battery protection, these will not as they are extremely slow trigger 3.3 seconds and have a trip current of 10.2 A making the parallel trip current 20.4 A @ 16 V.  They might stop destroying your battery if the board failed causing a short to the battery terminals, I don't know if that is at all likely.

(Tag davetherayon)

[piper1]

The fuse is used because the mod doesn’t have a collapsible battery spring.

[VapingBad]

Jul 21, 2014 21:10:27 GMT piper1 said:

The fuse is used because the mod doesn’t have a collapsible battery spring.

I understand that and did note that it may save the battery, but I don't think it will protect the board and was concerned that it may be seen as such.  I'm all for safety the DNA I did has a collapsible spring, reverse battery protection and a vent close to the end of the battery which would vent.

[Super-Shiny]

davetherayon all questions answered can be found here

[VapingBad]

Jul 21, 2014 17:20:19 GMT davetherayon said:

Quick question... I have the bits on the way to make a dna30 (FT box, evolv dna30 chip, usb charger board) - is it worth lobbing a fuse in line from the battery? If so what spec? Also, whilst I'm 99.999% certain it won't happen, putting the battery in upside down is a good way to fry the board. Wouldn't an inline diode prevent that? Again, what spec would do the trick? Thanks.

The DNA will not work with a diode between it and the battery, it would prevent the battery profiling the board does.  I am going to use a collapsible hot-spring and flat positive terminal to protect the board form reverse battery and battery (to some degree, more protect me from the battery).

[Deleted]

Very very nice theinhaler I can see your grin from here lol.

[meeee]

Jul 21, 2014 18:39:28 GMT davetherayon said:

Jul 21, 2014 18:12:18 GMT Super-Shiny said:

davetherayon i used these fuses x 2 with the legs cut down short and soldered together: TE Connectivity 6A Radial Leaded PCB Mount Resettable Fuse, 16V

Two of them will give you 12amps which is what is needed for the DNA30, this is based on a single battery not parallel batteries.

Soldered in series on the positive lead?

I think the fuses would have to be soldered in Parallel to get 12A from 2 x 6 Amp fuses.

[VapingBad]

Jul 22, 2014 8:22:08 GMT meeee said:

Jul 21, 2014 18:39:28 GMT davetherayon said:

Soldered in series on the positive lead?

I think the fuses would have to be soldered in Parallel to get 12A from 2 x 6 Amp fuses.

20 A trigger current with 3.3 second trigger time, the fuses in parallel as a unit which is then in series between the battery and main pcb.  So if you do what I do and put a 10 A battery in sometimes they are next to usless, hot springs are not so tied to battery ampage.  We are using IMRs as we do in mech where if is rear to find a fuse.

[davetherayon]

DNA30 chip arrived today, the excitement! Oh I gotta wait for the enclosure to come from FT

Also, put in an order for some awg20 and 24 wire to replace the ones in the FT kit, mainly to get a colour scheme on the various connections. Gonna make this baby look schaweet!

[Super-Shiny]

If it's for personnel use davetherayon i would skip the fuse, i did on my latest mod.

Only real risk is if you put the battery in the wrong way, put it in correct and you should be good to go for many years to come.

p.s don't forget the epoxy, that stuff is a god send, this stuff is really good: Quick set and Slow set

[davetherayon]

I bought a tube of goo (expensive for goo : goooo. ) That's to hold everything in place once soldered. Epoxy for things like the protective OLED cover?

[Super-Shiny]

Jul 22, 2014 18:10:40 GMT davetherayon said:

I bought a tube of goo (expensive for goo : goooo. ) That's to hold everything in place once soldered. Epoxy for things like the protective OLED cover?

Got a link to the box you have coming?

[davetherayon]

FT box : this one

[Super-Shiny]

Jul 22, 2014 18:24:44 GMT davetherayon said:

FT box : this one

As it's a empty box i would use epoxy for everything: Buttons-510-USB-OLED, fast set first and then slow set for that extra toughness.

[VapingBad]

Jul 22, 2014 17:57:46 GMT Super-Shiny said:

If it's for personnel use davetherayon i would skip the fuse, i did on my latest mod.

Only real risk is if you put the battery in the wrong way, put it in correct and you should be good to go for many years to come.

p.s don't forget the epoxy, that stuff is a god send, this stuff is really good: Quick set and Slow set

The fuse will not protect against reverse battery protection as they are far too slow and has to be matched to battery spec, a fast blow one may and these are not available in resettable form.  Best tip is solder the big wires (20 awg Batt + Fire) to the board first (most challenging connection as the holes on the PCB are very tight) and keep those wire length as short as you can manage for best performance (Brandon who designed the board said it can push a few extra watts with good conductivity).  The charger connection only carries 500 mA and the switches just TTL (love V logic circuit) so almost anything will do. Solder the buttons last, you need a bit of slack for the +ve to 510 and if you want to solder the -ve to the 510 you need a quite powerful iron and separate flux, I managed it with a 75 W and a 50 W together and even then its not easy.  Surgru is excellent for securing the board, screen and insulating and as Super-Shiny says epoxy is great for the buttons.  Best upgrade is to replace the battery holder and make your own using a hot spring and reverse battery protection.  Another tip if you don't have a spring-loaded 510 is to put a rubber sleeve or heat shrink over that end of the +ve out connection so you can use tweezers to push it up later.

Good luck Dave, although I'm sore you don't need it.