New microstick wouldn't fire - now FIXED!!!

[Brambles]

Ok, got a test for you Pepperty. Put battery in nipple down. Adjust switch so you think it will be contacting the battery when pressed.....just as normal. Now press the switch and short the switch plunger to the atty body at same time and see if it fires. I am very suspicious the brass threaded insert for switch is insulated from the body by the anodising. Could be the 510 base end as well/instead which is insulated.

[Deleted]

Don't know much about the microstick but found this maybe useful maybe not.

2. MicroStick is not firing
The connection consists of several parts:
- Minus: battery - button - body - atty
- Plus: battery - brass conductor - 510 connector - atty

There are several possible root causes:
1) the battery is too short
Solutions:
- slightly unscrew the screw in the button
- use 18500 batteries; all 18500 batteries should be ok
- try another 18490 battery; some of them are really short
- add a magnet

2) the 510 connector pin has no connection to the conductor inside the extender
Solution:
- press on the brass atty connector pin inside the MicroStick. Press just once with a screwdriver, for example.

3) atty makes no connection with 510 connector
Solutions:
- if the atty pin is sunk
Take a closer look at the atty (choose any). There is a brass pin in the connector surrounded by the insulator. The brass pin must be higher than the insulator (if you have the atty up side down while looking at it). The MicroStick has the brass pin 3.5 mm in diameter. If the pin in the atty is sunk into the insulator, the atty might work well with many other mods but not with the MicroStick, because in the MicroStick the pin in the atty doesn't touch the 510 connector pin. If possible, disassemble the atty and push out the pin or try another atty.
- if the threads are slightly mismatching
Check if the atty is fully screwed in. Try to apply slightly more force while screwing it in.

[Pepperty]

Aug 29, 2014 20:29:38 GMT hijack said:

It looks like you've tried everything Pepperty if still no joy you may have to get hold of the vendor to sort it.
At that price I would be straight on the phone.

Ha!!! the maker is in ISRAEL!!  along with this being an expensive mod (one of the only mods I've ever bought new)  I'm not tagging on a massive phone bill to halfway across the world 

Can you imagine if he said ---- "have you removed the <example> ? as instructed"   and trust me, I've researched this microstick for almost a year, I know a decent amount and there are NO instructions in the parcel (I did root in the bin at one panicky point)

[Brambles]

Alternatively just measure the resistance between switch button and atomiser body when screwed in ..actually will be a better test. Should be zero ohms.

[Greg]

Have you any other attys you could try ?

[Pepperty]

Brambles I'm not really understanding some of that you are saying ??? I had to be talked through using a multimeter earlier
Ive got 5 spheroids, none of them work! I've also tried my grail dripper and a viva nova Greg

I think I'd best leave it for now and take a fresh look at it tomorrow, its just so frustrating as I'm reasonably logical and fastidious and apply myself to working things out - I'm a perfectionist so I take care, but it would have to ME that has a flaming problem with it, everyone will assume I'm an idiot

I'd like to thank you all for helping me, its just a shame we haven't got to the bottom of it

[Brambles]

The idea is just to short (make a connection from) the switch button to the atomiser body while you press the button and see if it works.

[charliehorse]

No joy yet ?
Try this. Meter on ohms. Leads not touching check the reading. This is open circuit.
Leads touching
This is short circuit and is what you want for continuity.

Take the battery out and leave the switch off.
One lead down through the battery tube and the other lead to the centre of the 510.
You should get the short circuit reading on the meter to show continuity.

Then one lead to the outer edge of the 510 and the other to the threads of the switch hole. Again you want continuity.

Report back your findings but if you don't get the correct reading then that's where you should be looking for the problem.
I will try and check in later to see how it's going but I'm on my phone today as out and about.

[Pepperty]

off to try attempt number 34006......
now what dial on my meter is for ohms? ..if its an unformed 'O' with splayed legs (is it an omega sign?) I have a choice from 200 -2000k setting. I am really a lost cause arent i?

[Wobblybootie]

Yes that's ohms. If you touch the 2 leads together then you should get a reading of 0 or very very close. Thats the reading you are looking for when you place the leads as in the previous post

Sent from my Nexus 7 using proboards

[Wobblybootie]

You may have a little icon on the ohm settings that looks like the volume icon on the PC {YouTube} set to that. Touch the leads and you will hear a beep. Thats the sound you should hear when putting the leads on the device as before

Sent from my Nexus 7 using proboards

[Pepperty]

on omega 200 untouched probes read '1' on far left of multimeter digital display. When probes pressed together reading fluctuates up to showing -1 and shooting up to 163.00 etc.

When I press a probe to metal bar below battery compartment, and inside brass 510 and probes read 0.11 (last 1, fluctuates)

[Pepperty]

whats the bet my £3 eBay multimeter is dodgy too?!?

[Wobblybootie]

Not perfect but ok for a start. Next test?

Sent from my Nexus 7 using proboards

[Greg]

Aug 30, 2014 11:18:09 GMT Pepperty said:

on omega 200 untouched probes read '1' on far left of multimeter digital display. When probes pressed together reading fluctuates up to showing -1 and shooting up to 163.00 etc.

When I press a probe to metal bar below battery compartment, and inside brass 510 and probes read 0.11 (last 1, fluctuates)

The 1 on far left means open circuit  which is correct with up touching probes. The 0.11 between metal bar and brass 510 is also good as it's effectively a short circuit which is what you want 
bit confused by your 163 reading though with probes together, this should also be in the region of 0 to 0.11.

as suggested earlier whip your switch out and try one probe on the switch threads (the threads in the atty the switch screws into) and the other probe on the 510 silver outer ring. If you get 0.1 ish here then screw your spheroid back in and test with one probe on the same switch threads and the other on the top of the spheroid casing, should also get around 0.1 ohms here too