Rose v2 clone

[Greg]

Nov 3, 2014 21:38:02 GMT @windows said:

Nov 3, 2014 21:30:42 GMT Greg said:

I think the flat fat plastic bit is the same height or maybe marginally shorter than the head of the Phillips headed screw so that both bottom out on the metal 510 disc. If the fat plastic part is aligned with the outer airhole I can't see how it wouldn't restrict airflow.

@windows I think you said it was your spare base you checked and it was blocked by the fat plastic, how about the atties you are using can you poke a straightened paperclip in there or are they blocked, if it's the Philips head blocking this would likely cause less of a restriction given width in comparison to the fat plastic bit.

iLardyboy a potential fix if the fat plastic bit is the problem would to modify the plastic bit. Fir the base as normal and tighten it right up with the bar. Them poke a fine tipped pen or pencil through the airhole to mark which part of the fat plastic is causing the obstruction. Take the base off and use a needle file to file a groove in the fat plastic bit where your pencil mark is
I can't see a down side to filing a slot as above but maybe others can ?

Just a thought and I'm no Rose expert, just relaying my experience with it in an effort to get yours working as expected.

Its not blocked, airflow is fine. Just pointing out that its in line with the hole.
To be honest i dont really think that the plastic has any effect on the airflow. I think iLardyboy has something else that is causing his probs, dont know what it is though.

No worries mate I think it does impact the airflow but I guess we are all just trying to improve the experience for another vaper. I think your right about little care on threading starting point though. 

[iLardyboy]

Thanks for all your efforts in trying to help me out guys. The thick delrin does affect airflow, but it's not a massive difference. I'm finding that the resistance of my coils are jumping all over the place using 0.3 kanthal, would that be affecting the vape on it?

[Deleted]

Def yes. Sounds like you have a loose leg.

[iLardyboy]

Nov 3, 2014 22:31:25 GMT @windows said:

Def yes. Sounds like you have a loose leg.

Thing is it's done it with every coil I've built in it so far, is the wire too thin?

[Greg]

No I use 0.3mm in all roses and its fine

[iLardyboy]

Nov 3, 2014 22:34:34 GMT Greg said:

No I use 0.3mm in all roses and its fine

Do you think it could be a loose connection somewhere in the base?

[Greg]

Can't say I've had the base apart where the connections are. Are you confident your getting both coil legs in the wee holes correctly and catching them in both grub screws. It can be a bit finnicky getting the legs in right especially as your working blind dur tomthe ceramic cup. Maybe try coiling it and leave the ceramics cup out so you can be absolutely sure the legs are connected properly. If you try without the ceramic and the ohms still jump about there may be an internal issue.

[iLardyboy]

Is it ok to coil without the ceramic?

[Deleted]

Yes its fine

[decoy]

tbh i didnt get a decent vape outa the rose till i went down to .5 ohms on normal wire
i found out the ribbon i got given wat 1mm x .1 mm which they sell at vape mesh co idd suggest trying .8mm wide stuff for it

[Dan]

I've had the ohms jump about with three of the seven i have.

replaced the 510 oring, and also the oring of the positive post. Problem solved.

I got the sizes from Andy @ Eden Mods and ordered a load from ebay.

As far as setup goes. I've tried at least 10 different coil setups and still haven't found a great one.

biggest issue for me is the inherent voltage drop caused by the design of the atty. It's not a direct path like the Kayfun so it will take more power to drive the same coil.

Kayfun lite+ positive contact path -

510 pin to positive block Simple and good conduction.

Rose v2 postive contact path -

510 pin - metal disk - screw - positive post.. A lot more complicated and not a lot we can do about that apart from maybe upgrading the contacts to better materials. Copper would work but reacts to some juices, silver plate would be better but expensive..

A few pages back, a lot of people were singing praises for a twisted build using two strands of 0.30 kanthal. I tried that and found the ramp up time to be horrendous under 25w. So, i then tried using 0.25, still not happy..

Then i went outside the box a bit further and found this to be best setup I've found thus far;

Don't get me wrong, it's still not perfect and is a complete pita to setup compared to a normal single wire build. Especially when wrapping around a 4mm mandrel!

Anyway,

Get four equal lengths of .18 kanthal.

twist two strands together and then repeat with the other two.

Once you've done that, twist the twisted wire together.

My thinking behind this build is that two strands of .18 in parallel is roughly equivalent to a single strand of 0.25, so it will heat up quicker whilst giving the same rough ohmage.

Next step is to try with 0.16 wire but with less wraps to keep the resistance down..

[ciderhead]

Sorry Dan call me mister thicko but where is the oring of the positive post. ???

[Dan]

Nov 4, 2014 13:03:52 GMT ciderhead said:

Sorry Dan call me mister thicko but where is the oring of the positive post. ???

The postive post is the screw that attaches through the plastic insulator as per the picture on the right..

[ciderhead]

Yes i understand that but where is the oring

[iLardyboy]

I've tried a different setup today, twisted 0.25 8 wraps round a 1.4mm screwdriver reading 1.1ohms. Resistance doesn't seem to jumping anymore and performing the best I've had it so far. I still think The vape could be better, have ordered some 0.4 to try in it.

Another question for you all, what wick placement is best for good wicking? I've been doing the diagonal method, but I'm finding it struggles a bit to wick this way. Do any of leave the wicks outside of the grooves of the ceramic?