Q
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On the trail of the PERFECT juice
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Post by Q on Oct 14, 2014 11:45:25 GMT
Mine's here today, will save the ultrasonic until tomorrow when (hopefully) a couple of other bits arrive, mammoth building session Thursday methinks
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stax
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Post by stax on Oct 14, 2014 11:51:58 GMT
Yeah. That W deck is unbelievable how much cotton can handle and wicking properly, though.
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Q
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Post by Q on Oct 14, 2014 12:10:36 GMT
I cant quite understand the curved deck though!! looks exactly the same as the standard one, or is that my eyes again
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mxethey
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Post by mxethey on Oct 14, 2014 14:28:15 GMT
Just got mine in the post and it did have squape r on the packing (no extra charges thank god) Well the first thing i noticed was the colour of the decks being much lighter than arron gb one i have. The finish on this one is no where close to arrons gb version (apart from the leaking issue) I did have to get the mulgrips on the pre installed c deck, then loobed up the w deck and it's a shit fit. Guess what |||||| IT LEAKS |||||| so i have taken the pmma tank out then spent 30 mins trying to get the oring back in but it dont leak now Just soaking in washing up liquid atm, i will stick a build in later and let you know how it vapes. When both squape reloaded's function well, they will be up for trade for some rose v2's me think The rose v2 clone imo is one of the best clones ever made
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stax
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Post by stax on Oct 14, 2014 14:45:58 GMT
It's not that I have a many attys, but defo rose v2 is better clone. Mine doesn't leak for now. Filled full tank of 50/50 juice and still good. Its a bit airy for my taste, therefore vaping at 3rd hole. Clouds are good with W deck, but noticed that juice is almost over in the tank. So 5ml for few hours it start frighten me a bit
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mxethey
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Post by mxethey on Oct 14, 2014 20:01:31 GMT
Ok just stuck a build in it well about 5 to be more precise, so far this squape r is pissing me off. The impedance (ohms) are all over the place, my 1.7ohm coil i build for all my attys (28awg 8 wraps) and it reads 1.5,2.4,2.3,1.8,2.7, and the list goes on. The 510 connection is very tempremental aswell
The good news is it don't leak
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stax
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Post by stax on Oct 14, 2014 20:29:18 GMT
I had the same issue with the ohms but disassembling all and then put it all back together solves the problem.Push the deck hard to fill the "click" and all that will go. Mine is now perfectly stable regarding ohm-ages.
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mxethey
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Post by mxethey on Oct 14, 2014 20:34:06 GMT
I had the same issue with the ohms but disassembling all and then put it all back together solves the problem.Push the deck hard to fill the "click" and all that will go. Mine is now perfectly stable regarding ohm-ages. stax nice one, looke like thats my next project then.
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mxethey
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Post by mxethey on Oct 14, 2014 22:35:44 GMT
Ok i have give up with it, just to many issues the ohms are all over the place with the w deck clicked in Put the c deck in and it clicked in place but lop sided, so the the deck won't screw onto the tank The s deck build will be next week when i have calmed down
Verdict so far : wish i bought a another rose instead
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stax
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Post by stax on Oct 15, 2014 23:50:44 GMT
Right, mine started again with the ohms jumping. Took it apart and the problem is in the bottom deck. If the centre pin is not screwed completely the resistance is jumping all over. If I tighten the pin to the end its OK, but it sinks inside the 510 connection and no contact at all. Solution: took a hex screw from Rose v2(those small ones which tighten the kanthal to the posts with no head) and screw it up side down, as a opposite threading on the centre pin. Because the lack of screw head it enters in the air hole without problem at all. The only thing is that the centre pin is protruding too much and it can't stay flush with the some of my mods. Tomorrow will cut 1mm out of the threading of the centre pin and will be again flush to the mods. BTW only IPV2 without the adjustable screw now can stay flush with the SquapeR. Now its all good again. Obviously they coated the bottom deck with ematal after they made the threading for the centre pin and that causes all that ohms jumping because there is no good contact between the centre pin and bottom deck. But this is a clone after all for £16 and a bit of TLC will bring it on the track again. No point for paying the return costs to FC for now. mxethey Don't give up buddy there is always way.
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mxethey
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Post by mxethey on Oct 16, 2014 0:17:38 GMT
Right, mine started again with the ohms jumping. Took it apart and the problem is in the bottom deck. If the centre pin is not screwed completely the resistance is jumping all over. If I tighten the pin to the end its OK, but it sinks inside the 510 connection and no contact at all. Solution: took a hex screw from Rose v2(those small ones which tighten the kanthal to the posts with no head) and screw it up side down, as a opposite threading on the centre pin. Because the lack of screw head it enters in the air hole without problem at all. The only thing is that the centre pin is protruding too much and it can't stay flush with the some of my mods. Tomorrow will cut 1mm out of the threading of the centre pin and will be again flush to the mods. BTW only IPV2 without the adjustable screw now can stay flush with the SquapeR. Now its all good again. Obviously they coated the bottom deck with ematal after they made the threading for the centre pin and that causes all that ohms jumping because there is no good contact between the centre pin and bottom deck. But this is a clone after all for £16 and a bit of TLC will bring it on the track again. No point for paying the return costs to FC for now. mxethey Don't give up buddy there is always way. stax Mate cant believe you just wrote this, 1 min ago i started a new thread with the exact problem. Sounds like a plan i will try that in the morning top bloke Have you had the c/s deck lop sided when you click it in, i can only get the w deck to fit so you can screw the top tank on
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stax
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Post by stax on Oct 16, 2014 0:24:18 GMT
I tried with C deck its OK and never gave a S deck a chance Just don't see any reason for that it is so small and I'm not going to use it at all. Oh forgot - put some juice on the oring and it will be alright with all decks.
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mxethey
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Post by mxethey on Oct 16, 2014 0:32:10 GMT
Done the whole juice lube thing, i have a funny feeling that not screwing down the 510 all the way is what's causing the lop sided deck maybe
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Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on Oct 16, 2014 8:44:36 GMT
Apart from a tank leak (fixed with epoxy) mine has been bang on. If it turns out arron can't get the rest of the bits and things get returned I'd just buy another.
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tomj777
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Post by tomj777 on Oct 16, 2014 16:59:01 GMT
Well, I've spent the afternoon playing with mine. Dutifully stripped, cleaned, measured, reassembled, built. And a delight to build. Consistent resistance. And all is well. Time to fill her up (just a little, because I'm not sure if this is going to leak or not - I've stuck a couple of o'rings because the poly tank was loose in mine (nice). And hot hot magnet... Hmm - there starts an hour of investigation - turns out that only when the tank is screwed tightly on does resistance drop from 1 ohm to 0.05 ohm... So, why... I notice that the chimney doesn't want to sit hard at the bottom of the deck and I also wonder about the lack of o'ring at the top of the chimney stem (below the threads, like wot the old Squape had)... Many tugs and pulls and a couple of naughty words and the chimney is now happy to sit properly on the deck and, with o'ring combined, it's happy to hold 1 ohm. So.. about that leaking... all is well with a little juice and she vapes wonderfully. Fill a bit more - hmmm - sticky slimy hand time. Wonderful (said with the same inflection as when David Thewlis said it in Life is Sweet). Ripshod - I guess you glued (you used epoxy ?) the top of the tube to the top of the tank.. Did you apply glue to seal the bottom as well? If so, how? Or am I missing something and you glued o'rings to the polycarb tank? Thanks, Tom (tired and frustrated). Ripshod Where did you apply the glue?
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