Focal Squape reloaded verdict

[Ripshod]

tomj777 Looking down into the inverted tank you'll see a gap between the glass and a raised rim around the centre hole. I filled that gap a little epoxy at a time using a crushed cocktail stick. Same around the top (bottom) lip of the glass. Laborious but safe.

[tomj777]

Oct 16, 2014 18:28:07 GMT Ripshod said:

tomj777 Looking down into the inverted tank you'll see a gap between the glass and a raised rim around the centre hole. I filled that gap a little epoxy at a time using a crushed cocktail stick. Same around the top (bottom) lip of the glass. Laborious but safe.

Thanks - a job for me tomorrow, I think.
May I ask what kind of epoxy you used?

[Ripshod]

Sorry. I used Evo-stik Rapid. Had to soak it in lemon juice to get rid of the smell tho, so I reckon a Steradent tablet or IPA should do the job too.
I've had no reaction with any of the juices I use.

[macmagoo]

I won't be vaping anything that has glue or silicon in direct contact with my juice.

[mxethey]

This thread was the focalcig version squape which has orings on the pmma tank, there should be no need to glue anything

[tomj777]

Oct 17, 2014 9:26:43 GMT mxethey said:

This thread was the focalcig version squape which has orings on the pmma tank, there should be no need to glue anything

Indeed it is. 
Alas not all of the Squapes sent were of the same quality. Mine had no o'rings and, a loose chimney and thus leaked like a sieve. 
In the packet of spares, there were two translucent 20mm ID / 1mm CS o'rings and two Nitirel 17mm ID / 1mm CS o'rings (along with a curiously brittle transulcent 2mm ID / 1mm CS o'ring of unknown purpose). 
I'm guessing that the 20mm o'rings are the ones that are meant to sit on the pmma tank - were they glued on yours or loose?
I tried using the 17mm ID o'rings, and also some 20mm ID /1mm CS o'rings on each end of the tank without success.


macmagoo That was my first thought when I saw what Ripshod wrote (thanks for the Evo-stik Rapid guidance) so looked up chemical resistance...
I think www.engineeringtoolbox.com/chemical-resistance-epoxy-d_786.html ;indicates that this is good enough for the purpose of bonding the tank parts
However, I wasn't able to find a table for Evo-Stick Rapid but did find this: www.bostik.co.uk/sds/download_sds/EVOSTIKRAPIDSETCEMENT-English/04416610.pdf
You raise a good point, though. We have no idea what chemicals are used to join things in this world.

[macmagoo]

I can see why I am moving away from clones. I think paying for the authentic is becoming more attractive with atty's because I have never had any of the issues I have had with the last two clones I have purchased. It costs more but I personally will be spared all the hassle.

[robby]

Oct 17, 2014 13:51:16 GMT macmagoo said:

You see if that avatar of yours starts going oooooo aaaaa mmmmmmmmmmmm macmagoo, I wouldn`t stand too close too it  I do however admire it`s stamina

[robby]

Hopefully he`s just polishing his Vamo

[mxethey]

Oct 17, 2014 12:14:39 GMT tomj777 said:

Oct 17, 2014 9:26:43 GMT mxethey said:

This thread was the focalcig version squape which has orings on the pmma tank, there should be no need to glue anything

Indeed it is. 
Alas not all of the Squapes sent were of the same quality. Mine had no o'rings and, a loose chimney and thus leaked like a sieve. 
In the packet of spares, there were two translucent 20mm ID / 1mm CS o'rings and two Nitirel 17mm ID / 1mm CS o'rings (along with a curiously brittle transulcent 2mm ID / 1mm CS o'ring of unknown purpose). 
I'm guessing that the 20mm o'rings are the ones that are meant to sit on the pmma tank - were they glued on yours or loose?
I tried using the 17mm ID o'rings, and also some 20mm ID /1mm CS o'rings on each end of the tank without success.


macmagoo That was my first thought when I saw what Ripshod wrote (thanks for the Evo-stik Rapid guidance) so looked up chemical resistance...
I think www.engineeringtoolbox.com/chemical-resistance-epoxy-d_786.html ;indicates that this is good enough for the purpose of bonding the tank parts
However, I wasn't able to find a table for Evo-Stick Rapid but did find this: www.bostik.co.uk/sds/download_sds/EVOSTIKRAPIDSETCEMENT-English/04416610.pdf
You raise a good point, though. We have no idea what chemicals are used to join things in this world.

Just can't understand qc in china, they only had the squape r listed about 2/4 days, how many versions can you sell in such a short time frame.
However the one bit of luck with this crap squape was mine came with orings installed with pmma tank ( still f.....ing leaked ) till i took it out and washed it.
The oring was not glued in as it took me 20 mins with my finger up it so to speak just to locate it in the groove

Sorry for the ranting but it's the worst clone iv'e bought to date, shame because the stainless steel bits are great
I know people are going to say well its only £18 but it's got to at least work right ?

[zedsdead]

mine arrived today, it doesnt leak this was tested by filling it with juice laying on its side somewhere warm for 3 hours, so far so good.
there was oil to remove but not as much as on the first squape then check the decks all remove and reseat ok. i have an issue with the airflow my sausage fingers
sometimes cover the hole, same as with the 22mm protank the only other complaint is the tiny thing with ball bearing for the air control fell out when it was striped for
cleaning popped it back and the ring holds it in place.

all in all its been on the go for about 3 hours and not given me reason to frown.

[Q]

talking quietly but mine's been in use for 3 days now & apart from having to be VERY careful when tightening it down to my mod (otherwise I get the dreaded jumping ohms) its working VERY well
 

[macmagoo]

The jumping OHMS is a good reason not to use it. I suppose I'll have to wait until you make the headlines in your local paper. 

[tomj777]

Well, I find ohms do when I tighten the tank onto the base but I can tighten base to mod with impunity. I've sealed the pmma sleeve as per Ripshod 's suggestion (thanks).
Just need to ascertain why it's weeping through the underside of the base air hole (so I guess i'm overwicking).
The vape is exceptional.

[Q]

My ohms started jumping badly last night, I re-tightened the coil (screws had come loose) and it worked fine again for about ½ hour, then got 'check atomizer' followed by 'short', then back to check atty, and then worked again, I have *rested* it until I can have a better look tonight.