chykensa
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Post by chykensa on Nov 1, 2014 13:13:00 GMT
Tom and Marcus - photos and/or video would be brilliant, thanks for the offers!
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Tom
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Post by Tom on Nov 1, 2014 18:20:28 GMT
Right mate... Good news & Bad news... The bad news... it's like the plume veil but a bit smaller so a bit more fiddly... The good news... it's still gonna be fine. Just done my first build. Wrapped 28 awg 0.3mm kanthal round a 2.4mm precision screwdriver... about 1.6ohms each. Now a little trick to make things easier - cut the legs one longer than the other - shorter one going through the centres. I used the bottom coils for the centres, using the upper coils could make it slightly easier. To make putting them in a little easier, curve the legs as well. That way you can scoop them through the holes and they will go up after they are through. Put one coil in, just far enough so the legs are through but not right up to it. Then remove the screwdriver. Then put the other coil in (on the screwdriver) and position it where you want it and pulled the legs up (other coil not in the way). Tighten the negative and positive screws. Then take out the screwdriver. Then position the second coil, I used some needle nose pliers to pull the coil through the centre pulling up away from the first coil. I then pulled the legs up and tightened the screws down. To cut the wires, the negs are obviously easy. For the positive put the screwdriver back in the coil and pull it down and out, out of the way. Then use some rounded snips, coming vertically down, with the flat back again the positive block and snip the positives. With the coil pushed down and out of the way its far easier to snip the positive wire. Once snipped move the coil back over the centre hole and lift it to the height you want. Repeat for the second coil. Hey presto, 2 x 1.6 coils installed! Check them on an ohm meter... 0.8ohms... spot on. and a little firing and one or two squeezes and she's all tidied up - checked ohms still 0.8.... and she's good to wick! Hope that helps you buddy!!
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chykensa
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Post by chykensa on Nov 1, 2014 18:26:07 GMT
Tom - that's great, and a real help, thanks for taking the time to do this for me (and others, I'm sure!). I'll have a go after I've eaten as the OH is out babysitting so I have a quiet house to fill with curses and expletives I successfully built my dual coil Magma clone and have been using it on my Caravela with a Panasonic 18650. The bottom of the Caravela has been warming up - only slightly, and certainly not hot. Is this because it is having to fire both coils now? I've installed two 2.4 coils so comes out at 1.2ohm, the same as my kayfuns, which don't warm the base around the switch.
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Roscopecotrain
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Post by Roscopecotrain on Nov 1, 2014 18:30:55 GMT
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Greg
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Post by Greg on Nov 1, 2014 18:31:35 GMT
Shouldn't get any hotter chykensa, if the total resistance of your dual coils is identical to your previous single coil then total current and therefore heat should be the same. Maybe just coincedence, when was the last time you cleaned all your contacts, battery and mod threads. Just a thought.
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Greg
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Post by Greg on Nov 1, 2014 18:34:25 GMT
How are people wicking these with CW, watched a video showing the CW being pushed halfway down the juice channels which is very different from the Kayfun way. Just ordered a couple on the slowboat
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Tom
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Post by Tom on Nov 1, 2014 19:01:35 GMT
How are people wicking these with CW, watched a video showing the CW being pushed halfway down the juice channels which is very different from the Kayfun way. Just ordered a couple on the slowboat I used Japanese cotton, pretty much did it the same as my kayfun but took the ends of the cotton and poked a little down the channels. Seems to be wicking really well - vaping at 20 watts at the minute. Looking at the design I was thinking 'how can this thing not flood' but seem to be ok at the minute
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Super-Shiny
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Post by Super-Shiny on Nov 1, 2014 19:11:21 GMT
I use pretty much the same method as Tom post, as for the wick i use basic organic cotton not too tight and not too loose and snip the ends just enough that each end will touch the top base and hover right above each channel.....pretty much like my old kayfun guide
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Greg
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Post by Greg on Nov 1, 2014 19:12:59 GMT
Same as the kayfuns it's the design that stops them flooding Tom, the pressure outside the tank and in the coil area is greater than in the tank where the liquid is. also the juice has to travel uphill so to speak to reach the wick.
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Greg
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Post by Greg on Nov 1, 2014 19:15:48 GMT
I use pretty much the same method as Tom post, as for the wick i use basic organic cotton not too tight and not too loose and snip the ends just enough that each end will touch the top base and hover right above each channel.....pretty much like my old kayfun guideThat's why I asked Super-Shiny as if I hadn't watched the video I'd have wicked to similar to a kayfun but the video I watched showed the wick being pushed halfway down the juice channels which I found strange. oh well only one ay to find out which is best.
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Tom
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Post by Tom on Nov 1, 2014 19:15:49 GMT
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Tom
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Post by Tom on Nov 1, 2014 19:17:01 GMT
Same as the kayfuns it's the design that stops them flooding Tom, the pressure outside the tank and in the coil area is greater than in the tank where the liquid is. also the juice has to travel uphill so to speak to reach the wick. Yes but the air hole for the kayfuns isn't on the juice deck! obviously the coil is over both but I still thought this could be a flooder if not wicked right.
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Greg
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Post by Greg on Nov 1, 2014 19:17:32 GMT
FFS why does everyone post great stuff within hours of me checking out my FT basket
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Post by Super-Shiny on Nov 1, 2014 19:22:42 GMT
Forgot to add, i don't use any cutter for removing the tails of the wire, i just wiggle them round and round (washing machine method) until they snap (pretty much two seconds) just like all other atties i build.
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Greg
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Post by Greg on Nov 1, 2014 19:24:38 GMT
You can't beat a little wiggling
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