VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Jan 31, 2015 15:00:14 GMT
When you look at the traces they are completely unlike traces form a non nickel coil, the voltage while the coil is heating can be lower than the rest but still higher watts as the resistance is rising so you always see them starting with a curve.
At 420 F 0.13 ohm becomes 0.293 ohm so for 10 W you would expect 1.712 V, at 350 F it would be 0.2606 ohm and expect 1.614 V for 10 W they are both 10 W. So the movement of the line is more that the resistance is changing and the voltage adjusting to keep the wattage constant before you get to temperature limiting.
The first plot seems to be keeping around the temp, the power cut back looks a little too much on the other 2 but it is impossible to be sure without a heat sensing camera and it's probably what you would expect from the dry wick.
0.13 ohm at 420 F = 0.293, I = sqrt(PR) = sqrt(10*0.293) = 1.712 V @ 10 W 0.13 ohm at 420 F = 0.293, I = sqrt(PR) = sqrt(20*0.293) = 2.421 V @ 20 W 0.13 ohm at 480 F = 0.3207, I = sqrt(PR) = sqrt(20*0.3207) = 2.533 V @ 20 W
(0.13 ohm add 0.0004629 ohm for every degree F over 68, and 0.13 could be 0.125=0.13499 with rounding)
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robby
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Post by robby on Jan 31, 2015 15:09:21 GMT
When you look at the traces they are completely unlike traces form a non nickel coil, the voltage while the coil is heating can be lower than the rest but still higher watts as the resistance is rising so you always see them starting with a curve. At 420 F 0.13 ohm becomes 0.293 ohm so for 10 W you would expect 1.712 V, at 350 F it would be 0.2606 ohm and expect 1.614 V for 10 W they are both 10 W. So the movement of the line is more that the resistance is changing and the voltage adjusting to keep the wattage constant before you get to temperature limiting. The first plot seems to be keeping around the temp, the power cut back looks a little too much on the other 2 but it is impossible to be sure without a heat sensing camera and it's probably what you would expect from the dry wick. 0.13 ohm at 420 F = 0.293, I = sqrt(PR) = sqrt(10*0.293) = 1.712 V @ 10 W 0.13 ohm at 420 F = 0.293, I = sqrt(PR) = sqrt(20*0.293) = 2.421 V @ 20 W 0.13 ohm at 480 F = 0.3207, I = sqrt(PR) = sqrt(20*0.3207) = 2.533 V @ 20 W (0.13 ohm add 0.0004629 ohm for every degree F over 68, and 0.13 could be 0.125=0.13499 with rounding) I am not 100% sure I had the zoom defaulted but it wasn`t far off VapingBad. I am happy with the way it performs
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Jan 31, 2015 15:16:13 GMT
Reading the plots is far from intuitive, thinking of them as a resistance curve helps as the wattage should be constant before temp limiting and the voltage is changing as the resistance changes.
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robby
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Post by robby on Jan 31, 2015 15:23:51 GMT
so it means KX-40D 12times per second check resistance dna40 670times per second check resistance. i think i can live with 12t/s as whole vaporflask cost the price of only dna40 board. Not necessarily so matie33, the clone is taking action at 12 times a second, then it is switching the power off and on 12 times a second. It is probably checking the resistance many times more than that.
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Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on Jan 31, 2015 15:24:42 GMT
It doesn't take knowledge to read the traces though. A good knowledge of ohm's law and a short period actually looking at the traces and you start to see - and understand - what the traces are telling you. robby's explanation is bang on. And questions will always occur until everyone understands what they are seeing (that'll never happen as new members get to see this and ask the questions we have already asked). At one time traces like these were part of the black art of electrickery, and were protected as such. To put them accross like this and answer the ensuing questions shows an even greater understanding. Scuse me, been drinking, hic!!
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Post by Deleted on Jan 31, 2015 16:30:32 GMT
So what are we saying in layman's terms guys? the clones are temp limiting, but in a different way to the Evolv chip? or have i picked it up wrong,
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stax
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Post by stax on Jan 31, 2015 16:53:31 GMT
so it means KX-40D 12times per second check resistance dna40 670times per second check resistance. i think i can live with 12t/s as whole vaporflask cost the price of only dna40 board. Not necessarily so matie33, the clone is taking action at 12 times a second, then it is switching the power off and on 12 times a second. It is probably checking the resistance many times more than that. That's true. The last image robby posted with fully saturated wick shows that. The thickness of the line actually is ups and downs but for very short time so the program draws them as thick line. Opposite will be single thin line going up and down for 12 times per second, which will be drawn differently by the program. So I think we have very good clone. Other thing is how long it will last.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 31, 2015 16:59:50 GMT
Back to the world of non geeks, us stupid folks, swapping the same atty a few times between my real flask and Chinese flask i can tastes the coil and wick in the Chinese flask, just a little but it's there....both set at same watts and temp, am I tasting what's on them graphs...I'm using temp to regulate.
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robby
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Post by robby on Jan 31, 2015 17:22:32 GMT
Back to the world of non geeks, us stupid folks, swapping the same atty a few times between my real flask and Chinese flask i can tastes the coil and wick in the Chinese flask, just a little but it's there....both set at same watts and temp, am I tasting what's on them graphs...I'm using temp to regulate. Try tweaking the clone settings up or down I take it by taste, you mean burn?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 31, 2015 17:38:07 GMT
Back to the world of non geeks, us stupid folks, swapping the same atty a few times between my real flask and Chinese flask i can tastes the coil and wick in the Chinese flask, just a little but it's there....both set at same watts and temp, am I tasting what's on them graphs...I'm using temp to regulate. Try tweaking the clone settings up or down I take it by taste, you mean burn? Very slight burnt but the coil had plenty of juice through it, just tasted cleaner on the real deal? What I picked up on with you geeks chatting was its checking less times a second...ie I might have to use the clone the old fashion way...ie set the watts and use temp protection as temp protection......!
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robby
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Post by robby on Jan 31, 2015 17:47:04 GMT
No, I am not sure it is checking less times per setting. The chances are one is just putting out a bit more power that the other, I would just back it off a bit, either power or temp or both Without sophisticated temperature detecting equipment it would be very difficult to say exactly what they are protecting at.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 31, 2015 17:51:30 GMT
No, I am not sure it is checking less times per setting. The chances are one is just putting out a bit more power that the other, I would just back it off a bit, either power or temp or both Ok mate, yea know heat you mean, 430f is just a setting, thought I'll just have a little test, usually running different juices on each device anyhow...ie all have slighty different settings for each juice/atty. seems to working alright....
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matie33
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Post by matie33 on Jan 31, 2015 17:52:28 GMT
i think this checking can be possible issue (not really issue, just setting it lower with W and F) , temp and resistance fluctuate very often and fast, so if board its "slower" and regulate power slower. Also do the both geniue and china flask show the same ohm?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 31, 2015 17:54:10 GMT
i think this checking can be possible issue (not really issue, just setting it lower with W and F) , temp and resistance fluctuate very often and fast, so if board its "slower" and regulate power slower. Also do the both geniue and china flask show the same ohm? Yes the ohms was as near as damm it, I have learnt to watch the ohms closey when putting an atty on these things...! Edit...yes I might have to lower the settings im use to on this, for £50 no biggy....and if it's your first temp control then you won't even notice....
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robby
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Post by robby on Jan 31, 2015 17:55:06 GMT
I think it`s just a setting. I have never got hung up on settings, if it`s burning , turn it down, if you want a bit more ooomph, turn it up
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