jevans
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Post by jevans on Apr 2, 2015 10:34:49 GMT
I use 2.5 and 2mm knitting needles. At first I just trapped the wire with my thumb, but this made a very poor start to the coil. Stage 2 was to drill the needles with a 0.75mm hole and insert a piece of paper clip. This worked quite well, but it was difficult to stop the needle from twisting in my hand.
Stage three was to take the guts out of choc-block connectors and screw them on to the needles. This works brilliantly as not a deal of grip is required! In the pic you can see the holes I drilled for the paper clip pieces.
The coils are wound on the short end of the needles thus leaving plenty of needle to get hold of!
Jim
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Apr 2, 2015 10:47:30 GMT
They work well jevans and I have found that coiling under tension gives you tighter coils, here's some I did link & link earlier for more ideas like bending a winding handle.
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jevans
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Post by jevans on Apr 2, 2015 10:59:40 GMT
See where you're coming from VapingBad , a good idea! I just cut a predetermined length of Kanthal and find I can get plenty of tension with just my fingers. I believe in KISS!! (not the Perpetua type) Jim
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yourgurnard
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Post by yourgurnard on Apr 2, 2015 22:03:09 GMT
Like it! Cut 'em down & stick in the wick holes to coil gennies too...
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Greg
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Post by Greg on Apr 2, 2015 22:04:58 GMT
See where you're coming from VapingBad , a good idea! I just cut a predetermined length of Kanthal and find I can get plenty of tension with just my fingers. I believe in KISS!! (not the Perpetua type) Jim I think it's likely your missing VBs point regarding tension, you'll not achieve what he alludes too with your method.
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jevans
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Post by jevans on Apr 2, 2015 22:14:30 GMT
I think it's likely your missing VBs point regarding tension, you'll not achieve what he alludes too with your method. Really? Tell me more about it! Jim
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igual
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Post by igual on Apr 2, 2015 22:31:30 GMT
As a hobby I make chainmail, and I make all my own stainless steel,aluminium,copper,silver rings. Essentially make a long coil and cut the rings in a jig to turn them into jumprings. Mostly I wind coils 2 ft long ( I'd hate to thing what ohms that would be ) But to tension the wire I use something similar to this. Made from an old chopping board and groved runners. Mine has several options, tension for coiling, and a set of rollers for straightning kinked wire. The tension rig is g clamped to bench , wire threaded through hole in the 90 degree face then fed into the series of 3 rollers its wrapped round each roller. This provides about 3kg of tension obviously not idea for mini coils lol. But a mini version would probably work quite well. I normally make coils from 0.8mm to 2.2mm thick wire.
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Apr 2, 2015 22:32:35 GMT
I think it's likely your missing VBs point regarding tension, you'll not achieve what he alludes too with your method. Really? Tell me more about it! Jim Winding under tension the coil is tighter, less springy & holds it shape better, there is a video in one the threads I linked earlier by SuperXDrifter (arch squonker and guy that supposedly first posted the micro-coil, good guy anyway) where I go the idea.
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Apr 2, 2015 22:35:47 GMT
As a hobby I make chainmail, and I make all my own stainless steel,aluminium,copper,silver rings. Essentially make a long coil and cut the rings in a jig to turn them into jumprings. Mostly I wind coils 2 ft long ( I'd hate to thing what ohms that would be ) But to tension the wire I use something similar to this. Made from an old chopping board and groved runners. Mine has several options, tension for coiling, and a set of rollers for straightning kinked wire. The tension rig is g clamped to bench , wire threaded through hole in the 90 degree face then fed into the series of 3 rollers its wrapped round each roller. This provides about 3kg of tension obviously not idea for mini coils lol. But a mini version would probably work quite well. I normally make coils from 0.8mm to 2.2mm thick wire. You must post some pics of your work, maybe I've seen it in the Knight Shop in Conwy, anyway would love to see it.
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igual
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Post by igual on Apr 2, 2015 22:43:26 GMT
Tbh only have pics of the chains I make, all the pics of the armour bits are on the dead PCs HDD. Strangers thing I have made was a chainmaille bikini top and bottom for a young Goth lady. Of course I had to be their for the final fitting
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Apr 2, 2015 22:46:06 GMT
igual stunning work, shame you forgot your camera for the final fitting
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yourgurnard
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Post by yourgurnard on Apr 2, 2015 22:56:44 GMT
WOW! Bet Your coils are works of Art too!! Oh, which photo's the top & which is the bottom of the bikini?
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tim
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Post by tim on Apr 2, 2015 23:12:57 GMT
If you are using a Kuro coiler type jig, does the tension matter? I'm sure I could add tension if I use the wire directly from the reel. Thinking of *stock* heads.
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Apr 2, 2015 23:25:53 GMT
If you are using a Kuro coiler type jig, does the tension matter? I'm sure I could add tension if I use the wire directly from the reel. Thinking of *stock* heads. They are incompatible because you would need to turn the handle rather than the top and have a clamp of some sort IMO, but those give a nice even coil anyway I wouldn't worry, you notice they are loose on the shaft with the Kuro, with tension they would stay tight. Either will give you a coil that you don't need to monkey with or torch after, but it may make a difference if you want the inner diameter to be accurate.
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tim
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Post by tim on Apr 2, 2015 23:44:37 GMT
If you are using a Kuro coiler type jig, does the tension matter? I'm sure I could add tension if I use the wire directly from the reel. Thinking of *stock* heads. They are incompatible because you would need to turn the handle rather than the top and have a clamp of some sort IMO, but those give a nice even coil anyway I wouldn't worry, you notice they are loose on the shaft with the Kuro, with tension they would stay tight. Either will give you a coil that you don't need to monkey with or torch after, but it may make a difference if you want the inner diameter to be accurate. Ok. Thanks. Still get the occasional hot spot with my Kuro though. Probably just "mal-use" from me.
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