Greg
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Post by Greg on Jun 17, 2015 21:58:55 GMT
Tried various methods of coilin wicking these little beasties and found them all lacking in some way. Prone to flooding, prone to dry hits (if wick not spot on in both cases) vape too hot etc. Tried again tonight with a kanthal twisted pair wrapped round kanthal ribbon, and using the same wicking as I use on a goblin coil, and wow. Smoother than ever...cooler vape and the best flavour I've had from a subtank mini yet. If it's leaking you've not sussed the wicking yet, these have been the most leak resistant atty ive ever owned bar none.
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tim
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Post by tim on Jun 17, 2015 22:05:28 GMT
Tried various methods of coilin wicking these little beasties and found them all lacking in some way. Prone to flooding, prone to dry hits (if wick not spot on in both cases) vape too hot etc. Tried again tonight with a kanthal twisted pair wrapped round kanthal ribbon, and using the same wicking as I use on a goblin coil, and wow. Smoother than ever...cooler vape and the best flavour I've had from a subtank mini yet. Can I have the details of this coil please? What ohms/wire gauge [in English]/diameter etc. I use twisted wire coils in my subtanks, but wouldn't know where to start wrapping around ribbon. Piccies would be nice too. (Don't want much, do I?) Edit: Sorry to derail the thread
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thatguy
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Post by thatguy on Jun 17, 2015 22:07:09 GMT
The leaking wasnt from not having the wicking sussed out, it was from pushing the tank further than it's designed to go. It didnt ever leak as such, but the chamber flooded. Bloody hard to find the correct juice flow when your pushing them at 50-60W. But I enjoy a challenge and so far getting no dry hits yet at 58W from this setup, but taking shorter faster puffs. Can hit almost 50W with long drags.
Standard techniques and the pancake type wicks were fine when I played with them at the usual 25-35W range, but what can I say, nothing more fun than pusing the boundires of what you do.
Right now I've settled on a 46W vape on the subtank mini and sigeli 100W and not a dry hit in sight.
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thatguy
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Post by thatguy on Jun 17, 2015 22:08:10 GMT
Tried various methods of coilin wicking these little beasties and found them all lacking in some way. Prone to flooding, prone to dry hits (if wick not spot on in both cases) vape too hot etc. Tried again tonight with a kanthal twisted pair wrapped round kanthal ribbon, and using the same wicking as I use on a goblin coil, and wow. Smoother than ever...cooler vape and the best flavour I've had from a subtank mini yet. Can I have the details of this coil please? What ohms/wire gauge [in English]/diameter etc. I use twisted wire coils in my subtanks, but wouldn't know where to start wrapping around ribbon. Piccies would be nice too. (Don't want much, do I?) Edit: Sorry to derail the thread I'll be rebuilding the wifes RBA heads this weekend, I'll get her to photo them and put up the info.
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Greg
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Post by Greg on Jun 17, 2015 22:56:48 GMT
The leaking wasnt from not having the wicking sussed out, it was from pushing the tank further than it's designed to go. It didnt ever leak as such, but the chamber flooded. Bloody hard to find the correct juice flow when your pushing them at 50-60W. But I enjoy a challenge and so far getting no dry hits yet at 58W from this setup, but taking shorter faster puffs. Can hit almost 50W with long drags. Standard techniques and the pancake type wicks were fine when I played with them at the usual 25-35W range, but what can I say, nothing more fun than pusing the boundires of what you do. Right now I've settled on a 46W vape on the subtank mini and sigeli 100W and not a dry hit in sight. Check out the modified RBA on these for higher power m.fasttech.com/p/2516200 Or get your drill out.
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thatguy
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Post by thatguy on Jun 17, 2015 23:14:08 GMT
Got the redesigned rba Greg , they are still a pain at higher power, although much better than the original. They are good tanks, but are a little behind the goblin and streets behind the kraken in terms of vapour and flavour. I see them more as a stepping stone between clearos and rebuildables rather than performance tanks, and they fulfill that role rather nicely. I was only on a little trip to see how far I could push them. I do this with every tank I buy, and I have to admit, the subtank mini, especially with the redesigned RBA head you mentioned is a good piece of kit for around the 30W mark. The build I'm using tonight is aimed at about 40W, but it's aimed more at providing a smooth and tasty vape rather than pure power. Toned things down a bit with this, but I have to admit that it's a good vape just now.
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Greg
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Post by Greg on Jun 18, 2015 0:14:35 GMT
Got the redesigned rba Greg , they are still a pain at higher power, although much better than the original. They are good tanks, but are a little behind the goblin and streets behind the kraken in terms of vapour and flavour. I see them more as a stepping stone between clearos and rebuildables rather than performance tanks, and they fulfill that role rather nicely. I was only on a little trip to see how far I could push them. I do this with every tank I buy, and I have to admit, the subtank mini, especially with the redesigned RBA head you mentioned is a good piece of kit for around the 30W mark. The build I'm using tonight is aimed at about 40W, but it's aimed more at providing a smooth and tasty vape rather than pure power. Toned things down a bit with this, but I have to admit that it's a good vape just now. Which RBA deck do you have, got a linky ? i run the original deck at 30watts no problem ive never liked the Kraken, too leaky like most genies when out and about.
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doveman
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Post by doveman on Jun 30, 2015 12:54:57 GMT
Have a look here allaboute-cigarettes.proboards.com/thread/50745/kanger-subtank-mini-build-guide?page=1&scrollTo=883229 Thanks gregb. It does look a bit fiddly as it says there, so I'll probably just stick to using the RBA
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doveman
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Post by doveman on Jun 30, 2015 13:57:17 GMT
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phatfil
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Post by phatfil on Jun 30, 2015 15:12:18 GMT
doveman 0.5 wire may be a bit thick, needing less wraps? i use 7-8 x wraps of 0.4mm (26awg) fwiw the premade coils are great for a quick fix imho, tho go for the ones with longer legs wiggling off a tiny leg stump can be tricky.. circa 30mm legs are easy to snap off with 12-15mm legs you can end up with a just few mm of stuby leg which can stab a thumb trying to wiggle off the excess....
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buggritt
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Post by buggritt on Jun 30, 2015 20:49:20 GMT
Or just use toenail clippers? £1 at Morrisons.
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Greg
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Post by Greg on Jun 30, 2015 20:51:25 GMT
doveman 0.5 wire may be a bit thick, needing less wraps? i use 7-8 x wraps of 0.4mm (26awg) fwiw the premade coils are great for a quick fix imho, tho go for the ones with longer legs wiggling off a tiny leg stump can be tricky.. circa 30mm legs are easy to snap off with 12-15mm legs you can end up with a just few mm of stuby leg which can stab a thumb trying to wiggle off the excess.... A pair of needle nose pliers work a treat for wiggling little legs off
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doveman
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Post by doveman on Jun 30, 2015 21:17:07 GMT
doveman 0.5 wire may be a bit thick, needing less wraps? i use 7-8 x wraps of 0.4mm (26awg) fwiw the premade coils are great for a quick fix imho, tho go for the ones with longer legs wiggling off a tiny leg stump can be tricky.. circa 30mm legs are easy to snap off with 12-15mm legs you can end up with a just few mm of stuby leg which can stab a thumb trying to wiggle off the excess.... phatfil, that wire I linked to is 28AWG and 0.32mm not 0.5mm (I always have to try and remember the rule that the higher the AWG, the thinner the wire as it's a bit counterintuitive). They don't seem to have any 0.4mm 0.5ohm wire. I could get 32AWG (0.2mm) rather than 28AWG but maybe that's a bit too thin? www.fasttech.com/products/0/10008276/1995103-authentic-kanthal-a1-nichrome-resistance-wire-for
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doveman
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Post by doveman on Jun 30, 2015 21:19:15 GMT
Or just use toenail clippers? £1 at Morrisons. Yeah, I saw them used in a video and thought what a good idea. Wouldn't have occurred to me otherwise and I would have tried to use my wire-cutters, which are probably thicker and harder to get up against the head.
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Greg
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Post by Greg on Jun 30, 2015 21:21:12 GMT
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