Guides & tutorial on temperature control needed

[letsavit]

Jul 5, 2015 20:25:52 GMT @scooby said:

Jul 5, 2015 20:07:10 GMT Greg said:

Oh I don't know if you'd use PID to control temp in a mod, I do think you could argue TC mods work on the the principle of proportional temp control though with your temp selected being the set point and the resistance feedback dictating the power output to your coil.

No of course you wouldn't because the DNA40 is designed as a temp protected device not a temp regulated one, it's controlling heat by regulating the power.

So is it controlling the temperature of the coil or not?

[Greg]

I think you could argue TC mods can be used as temp control and or temp protection. Some people have said they set the temp for a particular juice and want to vape at that specific temp for a given juice, surely that's temp control. Others set the temp to prevent burning the wick in use but Vqape below this temp usually when the atty is performing as it should and temp only kicks in when something isn't quite right like a dry wick, ie temp protection.

[mxethey]

Ok guys and girls, I started this thread hoping for some basic setup guides on coil build,temp setting,watts/jules on tanks and drippers
Whilst i love the technical debate it's starting to go over my head a bit

Could somebody start a list for example like below that would help a lot of us switching over to tc:



coil material: 
coil inner diameter:
coil wraps: 
coil gage:
coil spaced/closed:

temp setting:
power setting watts/jules:
device rta/subtank/rda:

[Deleted]

Sorry letsavit I did have a reply scribed but it's not polite to mxethey and we know it wouldn't change minds anyway

mxethey This is what I like:

Ni200.
3mm.
8/9 wraps. (0.12 -0.13ohms)
0.25mm + 0.1 x 0.5mm twisted.
Spaced.
190c - 200c (375F - 390f).
20w - 25w.
SquapeR.

[robby]

Mine is much the same as @scooby`s only I dont bother with twisted coils. Ni200 7 wraps, .2 or .25mm, 4mm diameter wraps, .21 ohms ish, 420F, dripper (Magma), 20w.

With that setup, the temp control/protection is not going to kick in till the wick starts to dry.
Wicks last me two weeks plus (I change them at that point whether they really need it or not). A rinse out every couple of days.
I would argue that the temp control will not come in until your wick is drying or if your wicking isnt up to par.
Others will no doubt disagree with me

The temp control/protection/regulating thing ? They all do all of those things. It`s the same main system for all of the ones that work from my experience.

[mxethey]

Thank you scooby and robby and other posts. That's perfect info for us to start trying temp control
Keep your builds coming

[VapingBad]

Wicking and airflow are the same as Kanthal builds absolutely nothing different there in regard to building, if they are below par it will trip the temp limit where as before you cooked your liquid. You just need to stay above the mods min resistance and have enough surface area on the coil to handle the watts you want to vape at. Twisted is easier, spaced is easier, but neither essential. You need to target the max watts before building really, if temp control is kicking in too early and you have some room to raise the resistance add a wrap or 2.

I had a look for builds I saved and found these, see how important it is to know the watts from the Kraken builds, on the Orchid build I had to go to 3 strand twisted to get a stable connection but the coils is so big it had to be touching so you have to be careful rewicking to avoid creating shorts.

15 W Kayfun 2 strands of 0.2 twisted on 3-3.2 mm former 8 wraps link

30 W Kraken 2 strands of 0.16 twisted on 1.5 mm ss rope wicks 9 wraps (too many wraps for this atty really, but does work) link

30 W Kraken 0.25 mm on 1.5 mm ss rope wicks 11-12 wraps link
The Kraken needs coils that are too big for 30 W with single strand IMO, take the watts down to 20 W and it is more doable
20 W Kraken 0.2 mm on 1.5 mm ss rope wicks 8 wraps link

20-60 W Orchid 3 strands of 0.16 twisted on 2.5 mm former 12 close/touching wraps (big coil, but best flavour I have had from cotton, I vape this at 22 W 390 F) link

30-40 W Origenny2 2 strands of 0.16 twisted on 3 mm ss rope wicks 7 wraps (my favourite) link

[DiscoDes]

Guys,

Is there a widely accepted temperature that Organic Cotton starts to burn at?

I am still waiting for my Evic VT TC to get to me and intend to mainly use the Ni & Ti coils supplied with the Ego Mega tank. But I also intend to try my own builds with Ni or Ti in my Subtabk with the RBA base and OC so would appreciate some guidance at what temperature to start at. I also have a Magma dripper on the way.

[VapingBad]

Jul 6, 2015 11:09:20 GMT DiscoDes said:

Guys,

Is there a widely accepted temperature that Organic Cotton starts to burn at?

I am still waiting for my Evic VT TC to get to me and intend to mainly use the Ni & Ti coils supplied with the Egoo Mega1 tank. But I also intend to try my own builds with Ni or Ti in my Subtabk with the RBA base and OC.

IIRC scorching 420-450 F, but that is just from memory, IMO always set the temp for flavour as that will be under cotton scorching temp anyway.

[robby]

Jul 6, 2015 11:09:20 GMT DiscoDes said:

Guys,

Is there a widely accepted temperature that Organic Cotton starts to burn at?

I am still waiting for my Evic VT TC to get to me and intend to mainly use the Ni & Ti coils supplied with the Ego Mega tank. But I also intend to try my own builds with Ni or Ti in my Subtabk with the RBA base and OC so would appreciate some guidance at what temperature to start at.

It`s about 460F ish on the DNA40 and the Kangxin, but it`s a good bit lower on the IPV4. Still works perfectly for me, just a different reference to use. They aren`t all the same, although of course they should be. But like I said, it still works the same with a different reference point.

[DiscoDes]

Jul 6, 2015 11:14:33 GMT robby said:

Jul 6, 2015 11:09:20 GMT DiscoDes said:

Guys,

Is there a widely accepted temperature that Organic Cotton starts to burn at?

I am still waiting for my Evic VT TC to get to me and intend to mainly use the Ni & Ti coils supplied with the Ego Mega tank. But I also intend to try my own builds with Ni or Ti in my Subtabk with the RBA base and OC so would appreciate some guidance at what temperature to start at.

It`s about 460F ish on the DNA40 and the Kangxin, but it`s a good bit lower on the IPV4. Still works perfectly for me, just a different reference to use. They aren`t all the same, although of course they should be. But like I said, it still works the same with a different reference point.

So robby & VapingBad

I suppose the only thing to do to get a definitive answer when I do build my own coils is to do my own scorch test to see at what temperature my device/setup starts to burn the OC?

[robby]

Yep, that`s the way to go with it DiscoDes

[VapingBad]

I found the same as robby on the cotton test, but seen some quote as low 410 F, like I said if you adjust for flavour you will never hit it.

YiHi's like the IPV & SX scorch at these temps, I used to think it was just different calibration by have read quite a few threads about them only adjusting the temp twice a second so it may just be a larger swing in temperature that causes it and the pulse frequency modulation on the output would just make that effect worse.

[robby]

Never hit that problem VapingBad, maybe just the way I vape

[VapingBad]

Jul 6, 2015 11:40:47 GMT robby said:

Never hit that problem VapingBad, maybe just the way I vape

What problem?