VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Oct 8, 2015 18:39:48 GMT
If your device is know for being x degrees under of over please take this into account with you answer. If you have different temperatures for different builds choose the build that is more common among other vapers if you can, the most normal rather than the ninja build.
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SteveF
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Post by SteveF on Oct 8, 2015 18:58:46 GMT
TBH I wouldn't know if my device(s) were reading the correct or even same temperature. So far I've only used a Subtank nano with stock Ni200 coils so far. My istick 40w TC seems to be running 15-20 deg cooler than my IPv D2 and I haven't even bothered trying TC on my Sigelei yet.
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Q
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Post by Q on Oct 8, 2015 19:09:23 GMT
Perhaps I'm doing something wrong but all of my mods are running 520-580F using a stock 0.15 Ni200 in subtanks. Not had a dry hit yet, and I run my tanks bone dry to change flavours
Xcube2 SMY60 mini Koopor VF TC
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 8, 2015 19:16:14 GMT
Perhaps I'm doing something wrong but all of my mods are running 520-580F using a stock 0.15 Ni200 in subtanks. Not had a dry hit yet, and I run my tanks bone dry to change flavours Xcube2 SMY60 mini Koopor VF TC Not doing anything wrong Q ... You just prefer a warmer vape than most
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 8, 2015 19:22:27 GMT
420-440f for me depending on atty and juice.
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macmagoo
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Post by macmagoo on Oct 8, 2015 19:34:37 GMT
Perhaps I'm doing something wrong but all of my mods are running 520-580F using a stock 0.15 Ni200 in subtanks. Not had a dry hit yet, and I run my tanks bone dry to change flavours Xcube2 SMY60 mini Koopor VF TC If you are vaping at those temperatures and given the inaccuracy of temperature limiting you are very close to the point where juices start to break down into some of the nastier substances that high temperatures are associated with. I understand it is your choice but why take risks when the reality is you don't need to.
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Raffles
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Post by Raffles on Oct 8, 2015 20:02:59 GMT
You guys are doing my head in... I'm just a vaper, not a rocket scientist. Is there really that much difference in the 'pleasure' derived from all this 'tech' stuff. Just asking, don't shoot me... I really need to know what I'm missing.
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gm111
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Post by gm111 on Oct 8, 2015 20:03:56 GMT
Perhaps I'm doing something wrong but all of my mods are running 520-580F using a stock 0.15 Ni200 in subtanks. Not had a dry hit yet, and I run my tanks bone dry to change flavours Xcube2 SMY60 mini Koopor VF TC Not necessarily Q, I vape between 450 - 600 on my DNA 200 depending on build and juice.
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lisburnvapes
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Post by lisburnvapes on Oct 8, 2015 20:27:07 GMT
420f does it for me, thanks @yingyang for the D2' cracking little mod
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letsavit
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Post by letsavit on Oct 8, 2015 20:29:17 GMT
Around 420f
Not temp limiting though, controlling it... I'm running at that temp from start to finish of inhale.
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Skwoddy
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Post by Skwoddy on Oct 8, 2015 20:33:30 GMT
If its a new eliquid ill try it across the range in 30 degree increments till I find the temperature that offers the best flavour spectrum, on average this falls between 380 - 460, some juices taste better warmer and vice versa
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Q
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Post by Q on Oct 8, 2015 22:11:41 GMT
I tried backing off the temp limit after reading this, clouds & taste suffered dramatically, back up to my preferred temp now
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tim
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Post by tim on Oct 8, 2015 22:20:18 GMT
Ok. I just *bothered* to do the maths with Joules v Watts, and I think what the mean is "per second", which could work if it the does the breakdown maths. Maybe I'll get one and see Wrong thread
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Oct 8, 2015 22:20:52 GMT
I tried backing off the temp limit after reading this, clouds & taste suffered dramatically, back up to my preferred temp now If you want to try another wrap or two next time you build your coil, for my 100% PG liquid generally going over 400 F doesn't produce much more vapour (although there are exceptions and I sometimes need more), 12 wraps at 420 F will vaporise more liquid than 10.
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Oct 8, 2015 22:27:27 GMT
Ok. I just *bothered* to do the maths with Joules v Watts, and I think what the mean is "per second", which could work if it the does the breakdown maths. Maybe I'll get one and see Yes, but depending on which way you convert it could be "for second" or "per second", which is why I avoid explaining it normally. A Joule is 1 watt for 1 second, a watt is 1 Joule per second, nearest thing we used before was Watt hours which is why it makes sense for the energy counter, 1 Wh = 3,600 J.
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