Finding good syringes, mixing 100ml, tank for IPV D2

[doveman]

Apr 11, 2016 9:00:34 GMT Bobsbeer said:

My 20ml one is BD Plastipak and nearly a year old, but that too has started to stick, so ordered another. None of the markings have come off, but I suppose you get what you pay for. I also have some glass syringes, but find that the outlet is very restricted and difficult to draw with thick vg heavy juices, so don't tend to us it.

Good to know that about the glass syringes Bobsbeer. I might just get some plastic ones for the VG then and maybe use glass ones for the other stuff.

To be honest, my 10ml BD Plastipak syringe does stick slightly at certain points but not enough to bother me and it's certainly lasted a lot better than my other syringes.

[doveman]

Apr 12, 2016 16:35:44 GMT SteveF said:

Hi.
You don't say what resistance coils you are using in your RBA but the D2 doesn't step down in voltage mode. So basicly with sub ohm coils it is going mechanical via the board by giving full battery voltage ie; a 0.5ohm coil and freshly charged battery at 4.2v gives you 35w even if the display says 20w.
 Something I found out after putting a 0.3ohm mini clapton in my subtank RBA .... 58W

If you were unaware of this the way around it is to set the D2 to titanium mode, max temp and use joules as watts.

I wouldn't recommend the TFV4.

a) its a big lump, even more so on the D2
b) the stock coils need more than 75w
c) the TF-R1 rba isn't particularly good, the layout of the deck means that you end up with long legs on the coils and I don't think it wicks particularly well. The clapton rba, TF-RCA is more like the subtank, much better but an extra.
d) they leak, the coil/rba seals are prone to leaks or just falling off as you put it back together and if you thought subtank wicking was a pain the TFV is a real messy swine to strip down and fix
e) its not very good with flavour, clouds yes but definitely mehhhh on the flavour front.

If you are set on a Smok perhaps the TFVmini? same size as the subtank and with the same problems but it comes with the 'clapton' rba, its only saving grace

Thanks for the advice about the D2. I haven't really used it yet so it's all a bit new to me! I'm using 0.5ohm coils in my Subtank Mini.

I'm not particularly set on a Smok, it was just something someone suggested but looking at it, it doesn't seem any easier to build on than my Subtank Mini (the top fill hole is nice though). So I'm open to other suggestions for a tank for the D2 but I don't have to use it if there's a better tank for my Cloupor that's easier to build on or will produce better clouds without sacrificing the flavour.

[tim]

I love the glass syringes. Only problem is, I have broken lots of them. It may just be me, but I find them rather fragile. They generally get broke when I clean them. I have been careful after breaking the first one, but still they break. I'm going to switch to weight method soon. Which brings me to another point...., transferring a mix to a bottle, which requires a different thread.

Clear nail varnish is the way to go with plastic syringes though. The only problem with those is that the rubbers harden over time, but they are cheap, so if I don't find a solution to the weight method, I'll probably revert to them.

[Perpetua]

Apr 12, 2016 23:53:28 GMT tim said:

I love the glass syringes. Only problem is, I have broken lots of them.

Me to . . . . and I use only VG heavy - happily I've not as yet broken any, but I probably will now!

Apr 12, 2016 23:53:28 GMT tim said:

I'm going to switch to weight method soon. Which brings me to another point...., transferring a mix to a bottle, which requires a different thread.

Mix in the bottle you intend using is the easy answer tim.

Apr 12, 2016 23:53:28 GMT tim said:

Clear nail varnish is the way to go with plastic syringes though. The only problem with those is that the rubbers harden over time, but they are cheap, so if I don't find a solution to the weight method, I'll probably revert to them.

Quite  . . . . and hardly break the bank when the numbers wear off, with or without nail polish/sellotape!

[nanotm]

Apr 12, 2016 23:25:29 GMT doveman said:

Apr 12, 2016 16:35:44 GMT SteveF said:

I wouldn't recommend the TFV4.

a) its a big lump, even more so on the D2
b) the stock coils need more than 75w
c) the TF-R1 rba isn't particularly good, the layout of the deck means that you end up with long legs on the coils and I don't think it wicks particularly well. The clapton rba, TF-RCA is more like the subtank, much better but an extra.
d) they leak, the coil/rba seals are prone to leaks or just falling off as you put it back together and if you thought subtank wicking was a pain the TFV is a real messy swine to strip down and fix
e) its not very good with flavour, clouds yes but definitely mehhhh on the flavour front.

Thanks for the advice about the D2. I haven't really used it yet so it's all a bit new to me! I'm using 0.5ohm coils in my Subtank Mini.

I'm not particularly set on a Smok, it was just something someone suggested but looking at it, it doesn't seem any easier to build on than my Subtank Mini (the top fill hole is nice though). So I'm open to other suggestions for a tank for the D2 but I don't have to use it if there's a better tank for my Cloupor that's easier to build on or will produce better clouds without sacrificing the flavour.

the crius www.gearbest.com/rebuildable-atomizers/pp_257256.html?wid=1 is a good tank easy build velo deck with juice flow control holes and a top fill popup slot on the side, just get a fat vape band to hold it closed when in a pocket

the crown www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_0_5?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=uwell+crown&sprefix=uwell%2Caps%2C133 is similar to the subtank the rba heads are about the same its got flavour like the tfv4 but much better airflow than the subtank and the top fill isn't prone to opening itself (screw on/off lid) if you like the subtank then the topfill converters are a good buy www.fasttech.com/products/3023/10014944/3820004  

I have all the above mentioned tanks and the two I find easiest to build so far are the subtank rba (5>7 wraps Clapton) and the crius, both are a doddle to shove a coil into and wick, ive just got a crown rba and haven't quite figured out what i'm doing with it yet although no doubt that will come with time and ive relegated the tfv4 to sitting idle on the desk since I cant be faffed with its rba heads any more there just to fiddly and the stock coils are too expensive to be buying replacements until they come down in price (being a picky bugger I only want the half ohm coils and there never in stock below £3 each)

each to their own though  so far i'm loving the subtank top fill kits and sine they come in 3.5, 4.5, 5 & 9 ml sizes you can really get some fun out of them, also like the cheapness of replacement parts from FT, my only gripe was having bought the kit the 3.5ml tank arrived cracked but the 9ml and 4.5ml are fine (I went for the stainless steel triple pack www.fasttech.com/products/3023/10014944/3535800)

still each to their own

I don't like painted gear otoh the missus loves coloured glass on her kit

[SteveF]

nanotm its taken me a while to get a decent build on the crius, wicking mostly but thinner juice too, I've been going through quite a bit of Red Astair with it.

doveman & nanotm Yeah its a real stumbling block; finding something as easy and simple to use as the Subtank c/w RBA that doesn't sacrifice flavour.
And to be honest, the subtank is great as a starter for rebuilds, who hasn't had a marmite realationship with one? I wouldn't say that it was exactly up there in the flavour stakes.

Well there are better flavour tanks but so far I'm struggling to find a dedicated sub-ohm single coil tank with good airflow. Yes they are out there, some of the more obscure ones that really may be quite good, some of the high end ones but the £20-£30 bracket is all much the same. Essentially an rba made around a stock replaceable coil, airflow limited by the coil/rba and chimney diameters

ok you can go down the dual coil route, big clouds with no lack of flavour considering the amount of juice you vapourize but imagine what a stonking vape you would get if they dumped the already obiquitous 'velocity style' dual coil deck and concentrated all that space and airflow on feeding a large(r) single coil. 

[doveman]

Woops, missed the last couple of posts somehow

Thanks for the suggestions nanotm The crius looks like a pretty good topfill tank and the through-hole coil posts should be easier than the subtanks screw-down posts hopefully, as I find those quite fiddly. Must just be me, as everyone else seems to like them but I pretty much have to undo the screws all the way to wrap the legs around them, which runs the risk of the tiny screws falling off and getting lost. I find I have to wrap the legs around the screws as if I just lie them under one side of the screw with the end pointing outwards, it's difficult to cut them close enough to prevent the end shorting against the metal cover. Once I've got one end screwed down it's easier to do the other one but I always seem to end up with the coil rather badly postioned and twisted and I have to put the screwdriver through the centre of the coil to try and push/twist it into a better position.

My subtank RBA is playing up at the moment anyway. It was working fine all day but in the evening I noticed it was firing for a couple of seconds and then cutting out. I'd only changed the coil recently but tried fitting a new one, only to find it reporting as "shorted" or "low resistance". It certainly wasn't making contact with anything it shouldn't. Then I found even with no coil at all, it would fire briefly and a puff of vape would come out of one of the screw holes in the posts (I'd removed the screws completely at this point)! I thought the post that has a bit of play to it might be shorted to the other, fixed, post by gunk where the gap between them should be, so I cleared that area with a thin blade until I could see a clear gap but that didn't help. I've ended up using one of the old OCC coils I kept, which is pretty much worn out but I'm desperate as I don't have any other tanks I can use at the moment. I've got a Nautilus that my friend gave me but I never got on with that (I think it leaked on me) and I think I gave him the coils back. I've got a couple of Spinners and I think I've got some heads for those somewhere but I'll have to dig around tomorrow to try and find them and order some OCC coils for the subtank urgently to keep me going. I might buy a spare RBA head too as there's this somewhat improved Mini RBA Plus www.fasttech.com/products/0/10014112/2390700-authentic-kangertech-subtank-mini-rba-plus-coil

I think I'll get the triple pack stainless steel subtank topfill replacement kit that you bought as well. I've got no interest in a smaller tank than I've currently got, so won't use the 3.5ml one but I'm interested to try the 9ml one as I'd prefer to refill less often even with a topfill. It's a bit annoying they only sell these 4.5ml ones with the clear tanks in a 4-pack www.fasttech.com/products/3023/10014944/3820004 as I don't like the coloured tanks they sell individually because they just make it harder to see how much juice you've got left. The 7ml Subtank Plus might have been interesting if it was a topfill and it might have other issues I don't know about.

[Puffing Billy]

Apr 12, 2016 23:06:20 GMT doveman said:

Apr 11, 2016 6:09:45 GMT chykensa said:

Thanks chykensa , I was going to buy some nail polish but I'll try sellotape first as I've already got that

I use sellotape on my syringes. A word to the wise though, If the tape finishes up in the wrong position, don't pull it off again - it'll take the markings off with it.

I use BD Plastipak syringes with the black rubber piston seal on the plunger. Try to avoid the Discardit range (no piston seal).

[doveman]

Yeah, I've found the Plastipak syringes to be the best as well. Had some 10ml green ones which I think were intended for refilling inkjet print cartridges and they soon started sticking.

I bought a few glass syringes but didn't like them at all, partly because the plungers are rather loose and come out completely if you're not careful and they're also quite heavy and combined with being fragile it just makes mixing a more nerve-racking experience. In addition they seem to get deposits stuck inside them from one or two uses, which makes them sticky/gritty in places so I guess they need to come apart easily so that they can be cleaned but I don't have this problem with my Plastipak syringes so it's easier to just use those. The 1ml glass syringes I bought have blue plungers which is a daft idea as it makes it very hard to see the markings.

I did buy the measuring cylinders as well but as I suspected, I find it much easier to get the right amount of VG and PG in the 50ml syringes. The cylinders can be useful when I need to measure out 5ml of flavour rather than pouring the entire 10ml into a 100ml mix though, as using them tends to be a bit easier/quicker than syringing 5ml out of the bottle.

Thankfully I found an atty for the Nautilus today, so that's tiding me over for now and hasn't been leaking so far. If I get desperate I've got a few iClear heads for my smaller tanks.

[yourgurnard]

www.medisave.co.uk/b-d-2ml-plastipak-syringes-per-box-of-100-p-4267.html

Suit Me for the batches that I do.
Have also added 1ml. syringes to FT orders & 1x 100ml. for 'forced filtering' of My NETs!!
Oh, & sellotape!!

[doveman]

Good price but I don't really want to buy 100 as 5 would probably last me a year and I've got enough stuff cluttering up my flat as it is!

I looked on FT but the reviews of their syringes with needles say that the needles are useless for e-liquid, that the syringes don't accept standard needles that we might buy elsewhere and FT don't seem to sell any needles separately which would fit. I don't need needles for the nicotine, as I decant that into a 100ml tub which makes it easy to draw up, but I do need needles for the flavours.

[Pepperty]

For flavours I pull out plunger on a clean syringe and put my finger over the spout (pointing spout to floor) You could also do this with a syringe bung if you want to be very hygienic!

I then just squeeze into syringe tube until level of concentrate is matching amount I need (this way you don't have to remove concentrate nib) Measurements are designed to be upside down position so its perfect.

Then wiggle syringe plunger back in situ, upright syringe, let air move back up, remove finger and gently push plunger up to expel air. You can then syringe correct amount of concentrate into your mixing bottle, less fuss, no waste and no mess