jtc
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Post by jtc on Dec 22, 2016 19:55:22 GMT
Right ok Yes fair play with pragmatic twisting. I used ss for about 12 months but I have gone back to kanthal lately and been enjoying it. I was just wondering about kanthal rusting though really I didn't know if you were saying that you were more lazy than me or denying being lazy. My point was that my rusting was basically caused by using a complex build for too long. If you can pop out fused claptons easily, or use pre-made then you probably swap them out before you see the rust. Using stainless, or a simpler, more serviceable build would mean less likelihood of seeing the rust... I didn't get your first post that's all. No I'm using Geekvape fused clapton wire and it's just something I've noticed happening recently. No beef bud
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jtc
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Post by jtc on Dec 22, 2016 19:57:41 GMT
kanthal shouldn't rust, not red ferrous rust, aluminium oxide forms on the surface which creates the layer of insulation that stops the shooting between coils. Don't suppose it's a bargain basement Fe-Cr-Al? Perhaps it's not up to spec Shouldn't rust ay. Hmmm well I'm using Geekvape fused clapton and I make spaced coils as I like the way it vapes.If it's not rust then you reckon it's just a natural discolouration the kanthal forms as like a protective layer?
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domejunky
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Post by domejunky on Dec 22, 2016 20:08:00 GMT
I didn't know if you were saying that you were more lazy than me or denying being lazy. My point was that my rusting was basically caused by using a complex build for too long. If you can pop out fused claptons easily, or use pre-made then you probably swap them out before you see the rust. Using stainless, or a simpler, more serviceable build would mean less likelihood of seeing the rust... I didn't get your first post that's all. No I'm using Geekvape fused clapton wire and it's just something I've noticed happening recently. No beef bud No beef taken. Was just clarifying my point. Sometimes the subtleties of tone get lost in text...
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SteveF
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Post by SteveF on Dec 22, 2016 20:53:52 GMT
hmmm, ok, just read that you've kept the same coils on the go for months, could be a bit of corrosion going on. Must have been getting a pretty rough surface, micro-pitting from dry burning? Probably burnt out the aluminium? Just that I've never had any kanthal rust, perhaps its because I've never had a coil in an atomiser that long... besides the SS coils that are in my Griffin.
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Dec 22, 2016 21:14:26 GMT
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SteveF
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Post by SteveF on Dec 22, 2016 21:35:58 GMT
there is very little real Kanthal® out there, Sandvik threw out loads of cease and desist orders to vendors using their brand name . I don't think Sandvik actually make fine diameters, down to 1 millimetre from what I've read. Any lower than that is reworked under licence or fe-cr-al of a similar spec.
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Dec 22, 2016 21:41:22 GMT
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phtumshk
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Post by phtumshk on Dec 22, 2016 22:03:34 GMT
Well it seems nobody else seems worried about it then Maybe not as lazy as you and I about making fused claptons. My last pair got to play in three atties before I binned them. I'm using triple twisted 0.3 SS now, and loving it - the lazy man's fused clapton... Thanks for the heads up. Just tried it, triple twisted .3 SS rocks.
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SteveF
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Post by SteveF on Dec 22, 2016 22:13:19 GMT
damn don't know which page I was reading then, said 1-12mm. Still strikes me that even the popular DIY suppliers like stealth vape and the wire company don't actually sell Kanthal® but an A1 fe-cr-al with similar properties. I won't speculate on the far east.
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Dec 22, 2016 22:24:55 GMT
I wouldn't put those two suppliers in the same sentence, or even the same paragraph, I trust SV. Have a goole some people do find Kanthal rusting,yes it should be pretty corrosion resistant, but it hasn't got as much chrome as even the lowest grade stainless steel which will rust. The liquid could be playing a part as well.
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jtc
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Post by jtc on Dec 22, 2016 22:46:44 GMT
Dam I'm now thinking I should twist some ss
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jtc
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Post by jtc on Dec 22, 2016 23:02:38 GMT
Maybe not as lazy as you and I about making fused claptons. My last pair got to play in three atties before I binned them. I'm using triple twisted 0.3 SS now, and loving it - the lazy man's fused clapton... Thanks for the heads up. Just tried it, triple twisted .3 SS rocks. How many wraps and what ohms did you get please?
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domejunky
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Post by domejunky on Dec 22, 2016 23:10:28 GMT
Thanks for the heads up. Just tried it, triple twisted .3 SS rocks. How many wraps and what ohms did you get please? I use steam engine, it lets you specify triple twisted. I use 0.325 for the pitch. I wind them pretty tight. They were a bit if a surprise really. Different to a double twist - bit like the difference between a clapton and a fused clapton. Just to add, I've had rusty looking coils from Stealthvape wire. I wash my coils before dry burning them...
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jtc
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Post by jtc on Dec 22, 2016 23:15:02 GMT
How many wraps and what ohms did you get please? I use steam engine, it lets you specify triple twisted. I use 0.325 for the pitch. I wind them pretty tight. They were a bit if a surprise really. Different to a double twist - bit like the difference between a clapton and a fused clapton. Just to add, I've had rusty looking coils from Stealthvape wire. I wash my coils before dry burning them... Cheers So a drill and pliers will do? Or do I need them spinner things?
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domejunky
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Post by domejunky on Dec 22, 2016 23:16:38 GMT
I use steam engine, it lets you specify triple twisted. I use 0.325 for the pitch. I wind them pretty tight. They were a bit if a surprise really. Different to a double twist - bit like the difference between a clapton and a fused clapton. Just to add, I've had rusty looking coils from Stealthvape wire. I wash my coils before dry burning them... Cheers So a drill and pliers will do? Or do I need them spinner things? Yeah, drill and pliers. Takes 30 seconds to make a metre. More if you've got longer arms...
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