ukwarrior
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Post by ukwarrior on Nov 27, 2016 12:17:37 GMT
I haven't tried that specific CBD additive, although have tried a premade CBD juice before.
I suffer with anxiety, and from this sleeping problems. I used to self medicate with alcohol, and developed a problem. I detoxed a few years ago from the alcohol, and wanted to try a natural alternative.
I didn't actually find it to help me personally, but from what I have read CBD does seem to be of a great benefit to a lot of people, so I may try another before I write off CBD completely.
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ukwarrior
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Post by ukwarrior on Nov 27, 2016 9:51:17 GMT
Yes I found it to be slow using 3 or 4 bays which was why I bought/ changed to using the Efest LUC4 mostly. With up to 2 cells, the D4 charges at 750MA, which is not bad and results in charging fairly fast. With 3 or 4 though, this drops down to 375MA, and as you say are among the slowest. This is gentle on the batteries though, so if you can wait is not the worst thing. Even with the Efest though, which I can select either 0.5A, 1A for all 4 bays, or 2A charging for 2 bays, at 1A is still well within most cells standard charge rate, and I have found batteries to still last a good amount of time in their general lifespan at this speed. I only actually use the 2A charging for my 26650's though, I know I can charge my 18650's at this speed but prefer to be within the recommended standard charge rate. Is the only way to spot the fakes the box, and the plug? As the plug checks out as it should, but I no longer have the box for the D4. Too gentle can also shorten the life of your cell because they spend longer changing state they can build up more lithium-plating on the anode, I charge all my VTCs and 25Rs at 2 A and they are lasting very well, some over 2 years old. The main thing to watch is heat build up and don't fast charge cold batteries let them get warm first. Always check the manufacture fast charge rating, for VTC4 and 25Rs this is 4 A so I am more than comfortable charging at 2 A. Hi VapingBad . I really did not know that too gentle could also have this effect, but your explanation does sound feasible! I always have heard people talk about slower being better, but I know there are lots of myths in vaping that get passed on as gospel so it is good to learn something new. I charge my 25R's and other batteries at 1A due to the standard charge rate on the datasheet being 1.25A. I have never actually fast charged an 18650 at 2A, but to hear you do without any negative effects, and some batteries that are as old as a few of my very first is good to hear. When you mention allowing them to get warm, do you mean on the charger at say a speed of 1A, then up the charge rate to 2A? This will be handy for me in times I need a fresh 18650 but don't have one spare. (you would think I would with the amount of them, but they often end up in a mod, so lots of mods are in use at once and only a few batteries are actually free). EDIT: Double checking the datasheets, I realise I shouldn't worry as much about charging at 2A, when the standard discharge is 0.5A! Seeing as they are often experiencing 10A, and in mechs right near their CDR of 20A, I would imagine this to be much more damaging than a few fast charges.
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ukwarrior
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Post by ukwarrior on Nov 27, 2016 9:42:29 GMT
I see, I did think it was nicotine degradation, thank you for clarifying it though. I don't like passing on information unless I know it is true, which is why I mentioned it was just my thoughts. I do agree with what you are saying in that I am forcing the process to happen. It is actually very few juices I prefer after a steep though, so it is not often this happens. Although a point perhaps to remember is that forced nicotine degradation via a heat source doesn't necessarily mean eliquids are steeped/part steeped ukwarrior . . . . the heat has only changed the colour of the nicotine content, it hasn't necessarily helped those little flavour molecules to blend with the other ingredients. Heat can do considerably more harm than good in drying out mixes, degrading flavour and nicotine. At my broken record best - there is no substitute for a little time and patience to get the best from any brews, especially desserts and custards. Hi there Perpetua . I do understand your point of view, and some people like the heat method, others much prefer to wait for a natural steep for their juice. I think either is fine, whichever way you prefer your juice is best to stick too. It could be where I do fall into the minority of liking mainly fresh juices, I don't mind the heat method. There is definitely a change in flavour of some flavours I make if I leave them where I normally keep my juice, or they have been given the heat treatment for a while. Some people may feel it near Heresy that I prefer flavours such as mothers milk freshly made- it is just personal preference. I have tried allowing the mix to sit for a few months vs fresh, and there is just something I prefer about fresh flavours. Maybe I am a little strange, but who isn't in some ways lol.
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ukwarrior
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Post by ukwarrior on Nov 26, 2016 13:44:24 GMT
Is that the Pico RTA? I was interested in adding one of those to the collection, but have heard mixed opinions on it. I also love the look of the mod, did you make it bare yourself, or is the VT nano available in that finish? I was thinking of one for use where I don't want to be blowing out very noticeable clouds, how do you find the flavour produced by it? I also notice it is running at 12W, which would be ideal for me to use without drawing attention to myself.
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ukwarrior
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Smok
Nov 26, 2016 13:39:19 GMT
Post by ukwarrior on Nov 26, 2016 13:39:19 GMT
I like the looks of that, but I must ask is the internal juice holder replaceable? If so, it looks like it could potentially be a good mod.
I do have the H-Priv in the collection, and it is a nice sized mod to use for dual 18650's. TC is a bit lacking though I think for SS. I guess this will be a single cell, squonk type device?
For £61, you can get the DNA 75 powered Vt Inbox. That is one squonker I am interested in at the moment, as I like its styling, replaceable doors and also I like the DNA75 board.
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ukwarrior
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Post by ukwarrior on Nov 26, 2016 13:33:01 GMT
I completely agree with what you are saying. In no way am I advising anyone to go over a batteries CDR, and this really should always be stuck too in case of something which causes the mod to fire. If you do intend to go above this, you really need to know the dangers and be extremely careful. On a different note, do you spend time over at the Evolv forums? I recognise your name, I have spent some time there when I had some issues with a couple of DNA200's. Thankfully Evolv repaired both devices by fitting a new board for me . Yes I'm spend a lot of time there approving new users and keeping an eye out, I'm an admin on there. Ahh I see. I thought I recognised the name. I had a problem with both a V1 Hotcig, and a V2 hotcig DNA200. You may of helped me out over there, I have a terrible memory though due to some medical issues, if you did help me thank you for your help . I purchased the first one, and it was my first DNA200 device, and the Li-Po arrived completely dead, and I had to recover it using Escribe. I still had issues though, and it turned out the fuse was blown on arrival. I Purchased a new Li-Po, and someone named Bennett from hotcig started to speak to me. It took a long time for me to get the money back for the Li-Po from the Chinese site I used, and due to this, Bennett kindly sent me a V2 Hotcig DNA200 completely free! This one turned up with the Li-Po in good condition, as they had changed the packaging so the Li-Po was not connected to the mod. But, again very quickly the same issues popped up with this one. The board was replaced by Evolv in this device too. Since Evolvs repairs, the mods have worked fantastically, I have converted one to run on dual 18650's @ 133W. I am very happy with the mods now, but none of my other DNA200's have issues since purchase, it seems the hotcigs were plagued with issues from what I have read.
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ukwarrior
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Post by ukwarrior on Nov 26, 2016 12:03:02 GMT
Thank you all for your kind welcomes, and also for liking my collection . @djs , yes, that is an Nebox in there lol. I haven't actually used that in a while, I will have to remember too. I actually find it OK if I use it with the RBA, with stock coils I found it to leak from the bottom though which wasn't too good. Thinking of it, that is actually probably my least used mod. I think I got it cheaply on sale a while ago which was why I got it. I understand the built in tank is not for everyone though, and also the possibility of the plastic cracking is not good.
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ukwarrior
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Post by ukwarrior on Nov 26, 2016 11:57:10 GMT
You guys know what your doing and not trying to preach, but for the general user IMO say within CDR with a little safety margin as it is always possible for your mech mod to roll down the back of the sofa or squished in a bag with the fire button pushed in and mechs heavy no time cut off. I completely agree with what you are saying. In no way am I advising anyone to go over a batteries CDR, and this really should always be stuck too in case of something which causes the mod to fire. If you do intend to go above this, you really need to know the dangers and be extremely careful. On a different note, do you spend time over at the Evolv forums? I recognise your name, I have spent some time there when I had some issues with a couple of DNA200's. Thankfully Evolv repaired both devices by fitting a new board for me .
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ukwarrior
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Post by ukwarrior on Nov 26, 2016 11:52:27 GMT
I used to be up there once twice a week for a couple yrs ukwarrior i had a truck and we had the contract to move the Prout catamarans about. This was back late 80's early 90's so as you say i expect it has changed a lot since then but it the only place i have ever been that has escape routes on signposts I see, there is a pretty large boatyard on the Island still, my Grandfather did want to buy a boat, and was looking at them, but had a stroke before he got round to getting one. He is OK now, this was in around 2005, he just has some weakness now in his left side. I moved to the island with My Mum, Nan and Grandad in 1995, when I was 5. So we have been here for around 21 years now. I do remember even as a small kid things were a lot different to now on the island. Haha, that is quite strange! I do know there was a bad flood in the 50's though, and also about 2 years ago there was the worst storm I had ever seen. I was stuck in the local shopping centre with my Fiancee, Lightning was striking literally every few seconds, and right above us. Water was pouring in through the ceiling of the shopping centre, and outside manhole covers were hovering a few inches above the floor, with the water pressure pushing them up and flooding out. We waited as long as we could in the shopping centre, but had to leave eventually. At some points the water was mid way between my knee and my waist, mainly around the one way system which you probably remember. Luckily our home is on an incline, and we didn't flood. People across the road from us who were on the other side of the incline though got flooded. Walking home I will admit I was very scared, I knew if lightning struck with the amount of water we was standing in, it would not be good at all.
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ukwarrior
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Post by ukwarrior on Nov 26, 2016 11:43:16 GMT
The reason this is controversial is due to nicotine degradation when exposed to heat, but I think the darker colour you get with a 'steeped' juice is from nicotine degradation anyway! It is . . . . and the higher a nicotine content, then the greater a colour change will occur. But, it's a natural colour change and blending process that takes place without heat as opposed to ' forcing ' this process. Think of vegetables or fruits that are allowed to ripen naturally and compare the taste of them to those that are force grown - I know which I'd rather be consuming! Similar also applies to eliquid . . . . . I see, I did think it was nicotine degradation, thank you for clarifying it though. I don't like passing on information unless I know it is true, which is why I mentioned it was just my thoughts. I do agree with what you are saying in that I am forcing the process to happen. It is actually very few juices I prefer after a steep though, so it is not often this happens. I do also agree with what I have read in other comments in regards to myths, and them being lapped up. It is unfortunate when you see things become 'common knowledge', but are wrong. Similar to how a lot of people think if you get stung by a jellyfish, the best thing to do is you know what on it lol.
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ukwarrior
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Post by ukwarrior on Nov 26, 2016 11:34:06 GMT
Thank you all for the warm welcome . I had to laugh @b Road Blaster, "Suppose someone has to live in Canvey" lol. It has changed a lot over the years, unfortunately not for the best. Also joeten , nice to hear you lived here a long time ago. We actually moved here from London when I was 5, we had a Caravan at Kings Holiday park, and used to come to Canvey in the summer to have a little break with the family. Due to liking it, we moved to the island. Kings has changed now, it is no longer a holiday park, it is now a retirement village. It is full of mobile homes, which are essentially caravans with a roof and a shell added to make them look nicer, and I think some insulation and central heating. I know they are very expensive for what they are, but it is a gated community with 24/7 security, so a lot of older people do feel safe living there, especially with the island going downhill in the past few years.
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ukwarrior
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Post by ukwarrior on Nov 26, 2016 11:25:49 GMT
@get off my cloud , I also have had an experience in the past, around 6-8 months ago I would say which was completely my fault. I have memory problems due to some medical issues a few years ago, and I had got myself a noisy cricket. I had been using it for a little while, and switched to my Abaddon clone. I accidentally put the batteries in as you would for a series mod like the NC, and I am not sure what else was wrong at the time, but as soon as I put the door on, a lot of heat happened, very fast. Luckily I got the door off as I had only just put it on. I didn't have a vent on either cell, they was rewrapped though and some of the shrink wrap did melt from the heat. decoy , I would say 0.2 is the lowest I feel safe too with 20A cells. I don't trust pulse ratings either, as you mention not all batteries are made the same. Regulated I also go as low as is needed, and when I built with Ni and Ti it was common to have very low builds, but I know this does not effect amp load on the batteries in a regulated mod, wattage does so I never was worried there. I generally get my batteries from somewhere called batteries plus, although I got the newest HE4's from somewhere called Fogstar as they was cheaper and he is well regarded. That does make me laugh about the stacked 18350's, but also makes me very worried too that people do things like this.I agree when a shop does it, it is unforgivable. enjay , I am glad to hear a user who goes much lower who has not experienced any issues too. I do understand a lot of people build this low without issue. The VTC5A is a fantastic cell, good capacity and an even better CDR. I am aware of Mooch's tests, it was actually due to him I managed to explain to quite a few people how to calculate amp load on a regulated mod. A lot of the time when people are not aware you calculate differently, they won't always believe me. But if I link them to Mooch explaining the same thing I am, they then do believe my calculations lol. The main reason I stick at around 0.2 as my lowest, is this is where I actually enjoy vaping at. Regulated I don't vape that high powered, so I find this to be a good area for use down to around 3.6-3.7V before pulling on a mech. 0.08 would be a bit too much for me, simple 26G SS microcoils are plenty for me.
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ukwarrior
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Post by ukwarrior on Nov 25, 2016 13:32:38 GMT
Yes i would have no problems running a build on a mech at the CDR spec of the cell, maybe even above the CDR spec a little. As long as it's not some knackered old cell or you're not continuously chain vaping you're pretty safe staying within the PDR spec. It might shorten the lifetime of the cell a bit but it's very unlikely to vent on you. That is good to hear. I gather most people will be OK with up to CDR, and some even slightly above like yourself. I realise even if I was to run slightly above, the odds of a catastrophic failure are still low, but like to be safe, just in case of an event like an autofire for example. I do tend to take a few hits in fairly quick succession, say 3 or 4 pulls, around 10 seconds between each pull, but then will put the mod down for a while before using it the same way again. I do make sure to replace my cells fairly regularly, depending on how hard I run them. I have batteries I use just for my mechs, I try to replace these around every 3 months. I do have cells for my regulated mods that are up to a year old - I don't push these hard though.
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ukwarrior
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Post by ukwarrior on Nov 25, 2016 13:26:03 GMT
Sorry to reply to such an old thread, slightly worried though. I do have a D4 in the collection, which I now use to charge Eneloops for my AA and AAA keyring style torches. I now use an Efest LUC4 charger for my batteries, as the D4 was too slow with the amount I have, and 26650's took forever to charge. Mine has a removable plug as it should have, I no longer have the box though so can not confirm if there is a spelling mistake or not. I have been using it for over a year, so would expect if there was an issue to know by now? I would rather be safe though, is there any other ways of identifying a fake apart from the writing on the box, and the Moulded plug on the fakes? They will be very slow charging 4 26650s, but so will all 4 or 6 bay chargers using all their channels, though the Nitecores are among the slowest IIRC about 370 mA per bay when using both channels. You can charge 2 at a time in about 60% of the time, but you need to pick the right 2 bays so they are on separate channels see your manual. The LUC should be about 3 time faster than the D4 for 4 Li-Batteries, 1 A for all 4 bays or if your batteries support 2 A charging then maybe 6 times faster using just the centre two bays. Yes I found it to be slow using 3 or 4 bays which was why I bought/ changed to using the Efest LUC4 mostly. With up to 2 cells, the D4 charges at 750MA, which is not bad and results in charging fairly fast. With 3 or 4 though, this drops down to 375MA, and as you say are among the slowest. This is gentle on the batteries though, so if you can wait is not the worst thing. Even with the Efest though, which I can select either 0.5A, 1A for all 4 bays, or 2A charging for 2 bays, at 1A is still well within most cells standard charge rate, and I have found batteries to still last a good amount of time in their general lifespan at this speed. I only actually use the 2A charging for my 26650's though, I know I can charge my 18650's at this speed but prefer to be within the recommended standard charge rate. Is the only way to spot the fakes the box, and the plug? As the plug checks out as it should, but I no longer have the box for the D4.
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ukwarrior
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Post by ukwarrior on Nov 25, 2016 13:10:52 GMT
Remember with a regulated mod, you can go as low as the mod allows, and with TC wires like NI200, you will end up with very low resistance coils anyway. Surface area is the main thing along with the power you run your mod at, and in TC's case, the temperature too.
The simplest way for me to work out amp load is use the mods series voltage at cut off- so for a dual 18650 mod, around 6.2-6.4V, for a triple 18650 device 9.6V. At say 50W, you simply divide the wattage by the battery voltage, so for a dual 18650 mod 50/6.4=7.81A. Efficiency is a factor, and depending on your mod you will want to also divide by this. Using 90% as an example, that would leave you at 8.68A, wether you are running a very low resistance coil or higher resistance on a regulated device.
I have mainly moved to SS316L myself, and find dual 26G coils to usually turn out around 0.25 Ohms. I run these around 40W and at 240C on my DNA devices, other mods it depends on how well they perform at SS TC.
When I used Ni200, it was common to have builds that were around 0.07 Ohms! Again, I found surface area to be the important thing, and the amount you want will depend on the power you wish to run, and also the ramp up time to hit your set temperature.
In regards to my experiences, at first I did have trouble with Ni200 mods, but soon got the hang of it. Now I really do love Temp control/limiting mods. I also love the fact I can use my SS builds on older mods in power mode too, and not have to worry about forgetting if I have used Ni or Ti in a RDA or tank.
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