ukwarrior
New Member
Joined:November 2016
Posts: 39
Location:
Likes: 31
Recent Posts
Last Online Jan 13, 2017 11:35:05 GMT
|
Post by ukwarrior on Dec 11, 2016 12:09:03 GMT
ukwarrior those point were the first point at which they sagged to 2.75, just for a split second ant the end of a 3 second puff. The test script I have written just uses a DNA 75 with a large coils just under 0.5 ohm and I use a couple of old PC fans to keep it cool. It is different from other tests in that if use pulses of constant load (puff at x watts for y seconds) rather than constant amps until it can only do 90% of the required power it increase the puff time taking about the same amount of energy as a vaper would do in the real world. Like the soft limiting DNAs have or limp home mode some engines have. It also pauses if the board temp goes over a configurable limit and has around 10 setting you can change to adjust how it tests. It is work in progress, but I should post it in the next week with test results for 4 batteries at 3 vaping pattens. The script will be available to anyone with a DNA 75 and EScribe, here is a quick teaser screen shot of the end of a 30Q test. OK, that does sound good from your explanation, as it will reflect the amp load a vaper will be using in real life scenarios. I do have a DNA75, and Escribe, so it will be cool once it is available to be able to do these tests, and that anyone with a DNA75 and Escribe will also be able to. I noticed from the first graph you posted, even with the high amp load, the main thing was the calculation for amp load with a regulated mod still applied- in the 75W example 75/2.5=30, then divided by an efficiency of 85%=35.29A. It will definitely ease my mind in knowing that calculations for my regulated devices are correct, and also be very handy when explaining to people how to calculate for a regulated mod, as it seems many people mistakenly calculate their batteries amp load using resistance still. I understand this still effects what is output to your atomizer by the board, but not the amp load on your battery/batteries, this is dependant on watts and voltage. Thanks for doing this, it will help a lot of us out .
|
|
ukwarrior
New Member
Joined:November 2016
Posts: 39
Location:
Likes: 31
Recent Posts
Last Online Jan 13, 2017 11:35:05 GMT
|
Post by ukwarrior on Dec 9, 2016 14:28:59 GMT
Battery drain in regulated mods is higher than most people think, I am doing a little personal project using python script to turn a DNA 75 into a battery tester ATM I will be able to show that in a week or so, but will share this graph I made last night. The lines are cut off on the left because even the best batteries cannot supply those currents at those voltages. Batteries like the 30Q I tested the lines would need the same again removing from the start of the line as I measured over a volt sag at 75 W, but at best they will sag 0.75 V making the usable mAh about 1140, 25Rs are better at these powers despite having a lower mAh rating the one I tested was gave longer runtime at 75 W. The sag means you need more current to be able to get the watts and the runtime will be lower as they will sage below the low cut-off point. This is 2.75 V on a DNA 75 under load, but have been seeing some mods going as low as 2.5 V. Wattage per cell: green 25 W, blue 50 W, Red 75 W I am not even going to look at 100 W per cell, too scary, but you can see the pattern and where the line would be. That will be very interesting to see the results of, and I look forward to them wether they give good results for most vapers, or the opposite. I can already see at 75W the high amp load. I do not have advanced testing equipment, but I have noticed with most of my single cell mods I get better life with a 25R vs a higher capacity 30Q. I can only assume this is due to voltage under load giving me a weak battery message earlier. 1140 MAH doesn't sound much, but I can believe that in our use of said batteries. On my DNA75 I do have the cutoff set to 2.75V, which with the batteries I use is within their specification, as is 2.5V but that is the very end of the cycle and any lower would not be good. Which mods have you come across that do take batteries this low under load? As I can see how amp levels would be much higher than people assume when the voltage is this low in a regulated mod. I think mods that offer 200W+ on 2 18650's are pushing things much too far safety wise, 100W per cell is asking very much from an 18650.
|
|
ukwarrior
New Member
Joined:November 2016
Posts: 39
Location:
Likes: 31
Recent Posts
Last Online Jan 13, 2017 11:35:05 GMT
|
Post by ukwarrior on Dec 9, 2016 12:43:18 GMT
I got some SS316 by Hcigar, 28 & 26g, it works well in DNA's and also performs fine in Evic's. I don't have other mods that TC SS, but from what I have learned, Evolve DNA is the only true TC. (I don't often use TC on anything other than a DNA.) The handy thing with SS is you can "accidentally" use it in wattage mode with no problems. I personally have tried a few different SS wires, and at first found it very hit and miss. I tried Crazywire SS 316, SS316L, SS317L, and also a random brand of SS 316L from Ebay. I ended up settling on SS 316L, both the crazy wire and the unknown brand works well with my DNA mods, and since the SP3 update I have found the best CSV to be the one that comes with Escribe. Before this, I had problems as mentioned in this thread- it would either work, or sometimes fire very weakly, at under 5W, or the opposite and get very hot. Now it is my preferred wire type, I use 26G. I think the Joyetech mods also do a pretty good job at SS TC for their price. I have found other mods to be a bit disappointing though, including the H-Priv. It does work, but you can feel the temperature fluctuating as you take a pull. I have enough of this SS 316L to last a fair time, but once it runs out I hope crazy wire are consistent in their batches as I would still like good performance in the future.
|
|
ukwarrior
New Member
Joined:November 2016
Posts: 39
Location:
Likes: 31
Recent Posts
Last Online Jan 13, 2017 11:35:05 GMT
|
Post by ukwarrior on Dec 9, 2016 11:26:22 GMT
VapingBad - thank you for the reply. When I fire the mod using a Cleito at 40w, the voltage on the RX2/3 shows as 4.1v (Sorry - I have no expertise in these things...) I have only used the batteries in the RX2/3 with a Nautilus @ 9w (Yeah, strange choice...!) and a Cleito @ 40w max. What would be your first choice battery recommendation, please? I have Samsung 25-r's I use in my other mods If you wanted to buy from Fogstar again (I do know Fogstar is quite highly regarded), the LG HE4 is the cheapest option at the moment- £4.15 for one battery, £4.07 for 2 ETC. The 25R is slightly more expensive, but not by much. For 2500MAH, 20A cells, I get either 25R's or HE4's, whichever is cheapest. Both will serve you well and work great in your RX 2/3. You could also go for one of the 3000MAH, 20A cells, such as the LG HG2, or the Samsung 30Q (This is actually rated at 15A by Samsung, which is still higher than the 10A of your current cells, but Mooch has rated them as a good 20A CDR cell). If you are only planning on using the mod at 40W max though, even the 10A batteries will be fine, as long as they are 10A under the wrap. You would be drawing up to around 7.16A in dual 18650 config, even less in triple 18650 config. I am pretty sure that particular vendor wouldn't lie though, but am unsure which battery is being used.
|
|
ukwarrior
New Member
Joined:November 2016
Posts: 39
Location:
Likes: 31
Recent Posts
Last Online Jan 13, 2017 11:35:05 GMT
|
Post by ukwarrior on Dec 9, 2016 11:11:13 GMT
I quite like the look of that mod, and for the price, including an RDA, it is a bargain. I realised quite a while ago that for me at least, low cost mechs were ideal. I have a large regulated collection, and a fair few mechs, but each of these mechs have been under £30. My two best performers are a all copper, JA clone, which was only $11 and bought with FT points. I didn't expect much due to the price, but it is a solid performer. The other was more expensive at £24, a Wototo Phantom, but it is probably my favourite performance wise. I see some mechs that go for hundreds of pounds, which is fine if you are into high end mechs, but for the most of us a much cheaper mod will still perform very well for us and keep us happy for much less. I think I will have to order myself one of these due to the price, thank you for sharing it No probs uk warrior, as I said I'm pretty new to the mechs and am a while away from putting and prebuilt coil on one as my regulated mod still shows my coils are a tiny bit off jumping from 0.9 ohms to 0.93 and back down to 0.9, I'm sure this is due to the amount of wraps I'm doing and the fiddly posts on my wraith squonker! I've also ordered a coppervape bf and a atty to go with it, but like I say some practise on the building of my reg mod until I get it spot on then I'll be moving on! As you are new to mechs, all I can say is stay safe, and enjoy them too! As long as you follow basic safety, you will be fine using one. Like @get Off My Cloud said, resistance increases as coils heat up. It is how TC works, and why Ni200 was first used-this has a pretty huge rise in resistance, and why Kanthal TC can not currently be done. Kanthal has an almost unnoticeable increase in resistance, at least so small it is too little for a mod to regulate temperature by reading resistance. What material is it your coils are made from? As that is still a pretty small increase in resistance. I tend to notice around 0.03 to 0.06 max increase with SS316L, are they SS by any chance? If so I would say that is a pretty normal increase and is not due to your RDA or building. You have some nice bits on the way, I hope you enjoy it and the new RDA when it arrives. Do show us all in the vapemail thread
|
|
ukwarrior
New Member
Joined:November 2016
Posts: 39
Location:
Likes: 31
Recent Posts
Last Online Jan 13, 2017 11:35:05 GMT
|
Post by ukwarrior on Dec 2, 2016 11:01:06 GMT
I quite like the look of that mod, and for the price, including an RDA, it is a bargain. I realised quite a while ago that for me at least, low cost mechs were ideal. I have a large regulated collection, and a fair few mechs, but each of these mechs have been under £30. My two best performers are a all copper, JA clone, which was only $11 and bought with FT points. I didn't expect much due to the price, but it is a solid performer. The other was more expensive at £24, a Wototo Phantom, but it is probably my favourite performance wise. I see some mechs that go for hundreds of pounds, which is fine if you are into high end mechs, but for the most of us a much cheaper mod will still perform very well for us and keep us happy for much less. I think I will have to order myself one of these due to the price, thank you for sharing it
|
|
ukwarrior
New Member
Joined:November 2016
Posts: 39
Location:
Likes: 31
Recent Posts
Last Online Jan 13, 2017 11:35:05 GMT
|
Post by ukwarrior on Dec 2, 2016 10:52:22 GMT
I work on the theory that if I was to walk from end to end down the main (non pedestrianised) shopping street in any town or city across the world, I would have breathed in much worse crap than I would ever get from any vaporiser, coil, wick or e-liquid known to man. If we were to act on every scare story in the press etc., we would eat Zero, drink Zero or participate in Zero activities. Everything has an element of risk. That is very true what you are saying, and I, and all of us probably do breathe in a lot worse in a urban area than from vaping. I didn't mean any harm from my post, I don't want anyone to think that, I just see vaping as harm reduction and my thinking was the less possible harm, the better. Although as I mentioned, I do use Ti and some people are a bit funny about using that as a material, but I don't give it a second thought, so really using a ceramic coil or wick wouldn't be the worst thing. The SX pure does actually interest me though, and has done since its release, it is just getting hard to justify more purchases now as the collection grows. Would you class the SX pure as a 'Must have' tank? I do have a IPV5 in the collection that is compatible with the SX pure tanks. I am yet to try one yet though, how do you find the Temp limiting/ control with the tank? And would you say 75J is around the lowest you would want to run one of these tanks? I only ask as I generally vape at around half of this, but if the vape is good enough it may be worth a go
|
|
ukwarrior
New Member
Joined:November 2016
Posts: 39
Location:
Likes: 31
Recent Posts
Last Online Jan 13, 2017 11:35:05 GMT
|
Post by ukwarrior on Dec 1, 2016 14:42:08 GMT
I was really interested in ceramic style coils, but after reading this I was put off of them- docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLScBOPx3YguI-AnhDG-KBruO681JMzcTmwF4Dn8g118X8gL4eQ/viewformNow, I have spoken to various people on other forums, and one persons response (A respected engineer) I found quite helpful. It seems dependant on the type of ceramic coil/wicks that is in use. Tanks like the IPV pure, or the Altus, that have long life, do not seem to suffer from this issue. I am not familiar with ceramic cotton though, do you have a link so I could read more into this material? I am not familiar with ceramic cotton, so it may not have these issues. As it does crumble though, I would be a bit apprehensive about using it VS standard cotton until knowing more about it. This isn't to be nasty in any way, I don't want you to think that, I just wouldn't want anyone to have any adverse effects in regards to ceramics and vaping. This article was neither the truth nor science in any way, shape or form. It appeared to me and to others that Uwell were attempting to rubbish their competitors efforts after they had received poor reviews of the Crown v2 coils, if I remember rightly. Somebody please correct this if I've misremembered. I am quite happy to use ceramic coils and cotton in different atties and setups, and enjoy the vape I get. Clean and very tasty in a nutshell.
If true, that is fair. I do know many people had complaints about Uwell coils in the Crown V2, so it could of well been that. I have not seen any evidence on the contrary though, so am unsure myself. Even the Toxicological information posted here does show it as a respiratory irritant. Although, I use Ti without worry, and people worry about using that as a coil material, and feel safe doing so. I use it much less than other materials, but still feel OK. I only mentioned in case it was not a known topic here. I was not sure if people here were aware or not, only reason I posted- no malice intended .
|
|
ukwarrior
New Member
Joined:November 2016
Posts: 39
Location:
Likes: 31
Recent Posts
Last Online Jan 13, 2017 11:35:05 GMT
|
Post by ukwarrior on Nov 30, 2016 12:23:46 GMT
Hello manonabus. First off, well done on taking the steps to kick the tobacco! I smoked for around 11 years myself, and am so glad I turned to vaping a few years ago. You have a pretty solid set up coming for you, so all is good there. I do advise if you get the chance to get a cheap back up mod though, just incase yours does break, so you have a way to vape still. I also started mixing very early on into vaping. I did start with tobacco flavours, but quickly moved on to other flavours as I realised they were nicer. If the tobacco flavours help you quit though, that is the main thing. I would get nicotine now while you can, as I imagine places will sell out soon due to the TPD being implemented and the 6 month period to sell off stocks of nicotine. I haven't been at this forum very long myself, but everyone seems very helpful and friendly. I wish you all the best in quitting
|
|
ukwarrior
New Member
Joined:November 2016
Posts: 39
Location:
Likes: 31
Recent Posts
Last Online Jan 13, 2017 11:35:05 GMT
|
Post by ukwarrior on Nov 30, 2016 12:18:47 GMT
First off, I am new here so don't yet know you, but I am very sorry to hear of your loss pipeman01. I wish you the best at this tough time. Secondly, I am glad you have had a good experience with a brick and mortar, and it helped you out on this occasion in an emergency . Unfortunately, where I live the B&M shops are pretty rubbish, and the staff are either clueless, or give terrible advice. One store in Basildon, I had the employee telling me how safe his 0.09 build was on his 'competition' mech. He took it apart, and said see anything different? I said no vent holes? He said yes. I asked if he was going to drill any in, as I probably would myself. His reply was "No, it is lined with silver and vent holes would lower its performance". I have no problem with people who like to push limits, but when they are announcing it as very safe, and there was a few new vapers with me, and also that vent holes will lower overall performance (remember how much surface area there would still be for conductivity), I don't feel it is too good. I do understand not everywhere is like Canvey and surrounding areas though, and there are nice places in England lol.
|
|
ukwarrior
New Member
Joined:November 2016
Posts: 39
Location:
Likes: 31
Recent Posts
Last Online Jan 13, 2017 11:35:05 GMT
|
Post by ukwarrior on Nov 30, 2016 12:09:22 GMT
I was really interested in ceramic style coils, but after reading this I was put off of them- docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLScBOPx3YguI-AnhDG-KBruO681JMzcTmwF4Dn8g118X8gL4eQ/viewformNow, I have spoken to various people on other forums, and one persons response (A respected engineer) I found quite helpful. It seems dependant on the type of ceramic coil/wicks that is in use. Tanks like the IPV pure, or the Altus, that have long life, do not seem to suffer from this issue. I am not familiar with ceramic cotton though, do you have a link so I could read more into this material? I am not familiar with ceramic cotton, so it may not have these issues. As it does crumble though, I would be a bit apprehensive about using it VS standard cotton until knowing more about it. This isn't to be nasty in any way, I don't want you to think that, I just wouldn't want anyone to have any adverse effects in regards to ceramics and vaping.
|
|
ukwarrior
New Member
Joined:November 2016
Posts: 39
Location:
Likes: 31
Recent Posts
Last Online Jan 13, 2017 11:35:05 GMT
|
Post by ukwarrior on Nov 29, 2016 13:14:27 GMT
Charge rates are different discharges rates, they relate to capacity by the C rate and always best to check the data sheet EG Samsung 25R 2500 mA CDR CDR 20 A, std charge 1.25 A (0.5 C), rapid charge (1.6 C) Panasonic NCR18650B 3400 mAh CDR 6.8 A, std charge 1.7 A (0.5 C), fast charge 3.4 A (1 C) (I can't find the data sheet now, but made a note years ago) These 2 batteries have similar fast charge rates, but very different CDR rates. Battery University says "The advised charge rate of an Energy Cell is between 0.5C and 1C" so if you can't find the data sheet stick to these figures. C Rate The theory about plating when charging slowly is not universally accepted, it was a bunch of tests where they charged for different amounts of time cut the cell open and looked at it under an electron microscope and IIRC only tested one model of cell, but tested it many times. Hi VapingBad . I realise Charge rates are different to discharge rates, and also C rating from back in my RC heli days when I used Li-Po packs. I never imagined I would be using similar packs in a smoking alternative in years to come. I can sometimes have an odd way of going about explaining things, I do have some damage up top after a period in hospital in 2014. I used to get confused very easily and forgetful on leaving hospital, although it isn't as bad as it once was now. My main battery of choice is the 25R and the LG HE4, and from both of their datasheets they are identical in specification in regards to their CDR, and also their charge rates. Also other tests are identical if I remember correctly. I don't own any Panasonic batteries myself. So going by battery university's advised charge rate, of 0.5-1C, that would be between 1.25A (Samsungs recommended rate) and 2.5A? That is good to know, and I will use 2A charging when I need a battery charging a bit faster. OK, even though it is not universally accepted, it is still good to know some tests have been performed and have shown this can occur. Thank you for your advice .
|
|
ukwarrior
New Member
Joined:November 2016
Posts: 39
Location:
Likes: 31
Recent Posts
Last Online Jan 13, 2017 11:35:05 GMT
|
Post by ukwarrior on Nov 28, 2016 12:39:41 GMT
Ahh, my mistake. I had seen a MTL RTA called the Pico, that I had heard good things about. Looking again though, it has 3 small airflow holes, not just the 1 that (I think) is on yours. Wow, the mod looks very small, which was why I mistakenly thought it was the nano. I like it in that finish a lot . the pico is a great little atty, mine gets a blast daily. Some of the clones aint that great tho so its pot luck when buyin em from china. Nice to hear you get on well with the Pico . If I get round to getting one, it would likely be a clone. I will check out reviews on FT before purchase to hopefully get one of the better ones, as I know with clones quality can vary greatly. I have had clones in the past that I have compared to the genuine article I owned, and wished I had just got the clone, while others the difference was vastly obvious.
|
|
ukwarrior
New Member
Joined:November 2016
Posts: 39
Location:
Likes: 31
Recent Posts
Last Online Jan 13, 2017 11:35:05 GMT
|
Post by ukwarrior on Nov 28, 2016 11:29:58 GMT
Is that the Pico RTA? I was interested in adding one of those to the collection, but have heard mixed opinions on it. I also love the look of the mod, did you make it bare yourself, or is the VT nano available in that finish? I was thinking of one for use where I don't want to be blowing out very noticeable clouds, how do you find the flavour produced by it? I also notice it is running at 12W, which would be ideal for me to use without drawing attention to myself. The atty is an atmistique eviva-t, a MTL. The mod is a HCigar VT75, bought that way Forgot to add, the atty has a jojo nano kit on Ahh, my mistake. I had seen a MTL RTA called the Pico, that I had heard good things about. Looking again though, it has 3 small airflow holes, not just the 1 that (I think) is on yours. Wow, the mod looks very small, which was why I mistakenly thought it was the nano. I like it in that finish a lot .
|
|
ukwarrior
New Member
Joined:November 2016
Posts: 39
Location:
Likes: 31
Recent Posts
Last Online Jan 13, 2017 11:35:05 GMT
|
Post by ukwarrior on Nov 27, 2016 12:22:48 GMT
@broadblaster , that is a very good point.
I had completely forgotten about the massive gas terminal on the Island, I do know many years ago it was actually targeted by the IRA. From what I read though, which seems to go against what you would expect, due to the container being full it somehow did not explode. If it was only partially full, it would of went up with a pretty big bang.
This could of course just be rumour spread as fact though. I imagine if those containers ever did go up, it would take out quite a large portion of the island.
We still have the black occidental jetty, you may remember this? It was for the petro chem industry, but never was completely finished. People now fish off of it, and I have taken my bike right out to the end of the jetty. It extends quite far into the thames and is quite nice, got some nice photos while I was up there.
Did Prouts problems cause you any issues in regards to work, or was you OK with other potential clients?
|
|