raid2506
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Post by raid2506 on Jan 7, 2014 0:07:02 GMT
I haven't heard of it before but it looks nice enough.
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raid2506
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Post by raid2506 on Jan 6, 2014 23:05:42 GMT
Thanks for the tag charon. Hi scargill, lets see if we can't get this sorted. Please excuse me if anything sounds patronising or you have already tried it, just trying to get all the info. A couple of obvious things to start, you can't use protected batteries, please check yours is unprotected. Minimum coil resistance is 1.2 Ohms, please verify yours is above this. Are you using flat or button top batteries? The contact on flat top batts can become concave with use and fail to connect properly. Have you tried a different battery? Have you tried it in 18350 mode? Have your tried different atty/head/coils? When you look up inside the battery tube is the positive contact clean and free of swarf etc? Does the spring in the bottom cap have a full range of movement? Does it get used in humid environments, outdoors, bathroom, kitchen, etc?
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raid2506
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Diablo Rey
This is my Riva - There are many like it but this one is mine!
Joined:November 2012
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Post by raid2506 on Jan 6, 2014 18:07:11 GMT
It seems sound to me although I would be inclined to use a single 6A fuse.
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raid2506
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Diablo Rey
This is my Riva - There are many like it but this one is mine!
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Post by raid2506 on Jan 6, 2014 17:22:01 GMT
That's cool testdruif, so 7A min is the constant current of the battery not the input current of the circuit. Still, the rest of it is dangerous, you cannot make your own home made 2 cell Li-po and charge it from USB, that's called a time bomb.
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raid2506
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Post by raid2506 on Jan 6, 2014 16:55:04 GMT
In the end we're just trying not to make a pipe bomb so the maximum input of the dna20 board is 7amps, if you are going to use that amount of current I'm wondering if your atty will melt or not If I read it right the DNA20 needs 7A minimum, not max?
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raid2506
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Post by raid2506 on Jan 6, 2014 16:54:05 GMT
Just to add some more aggro to the mix....
Your fuse Amps rating has to be BELOW the maximum safe current of the circuit to protect it, e.g. 7A circuit 6A fuse. I have not been able to ascertain the safe maximum Amps for the DNA20? The fuse voltage needs to be ABOVE the maximum voltage of the circuit so 16v or 30v is ok
Two fuses in parallel do not give double the rating of an individual fuse, if you double the rating and deduct 15% you should be close. Based on the fact that the tutorial you are following shows Li-Po batteries wired in parallel and charged via USB I'm not convinced the author has done the proper Pre-arc or total current/time calculations.
The Evolve data sheet also specifies a single cell of above 7A but the tutorial seems to suggest multiple cells at 7A max and fused accordingly?
There seems to be much confusion as the whether the fuses are supposed to protect the Li-Po cell or the DNA20 circuit?
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raid2506
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Diablo Rey
This is my Riva - There are many like it but this one is mine!
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Post by raid2506 on Jan 6, 2014 15:16:19 GMT
My actual point about the fuses is that in the configuration shown they are both redundant.
If a fuse was used then it should be on the single leg of the 'Y'.
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raid2506
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Post by raid2506 on Jan 6, 2014 13:51:33 GMT
Super-Shiny, I hope for the future of vaping that somebody posted that pic as a joke?
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raid2506
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Post by raid2506 on Jan 6, 2014 13:45:18 GMT
This is the wiring guide i got aswell from another site, not the same battery holder though: LOL, you can't have too many fuses! A bridge at one end, a 'Y' at the other, 2 fuses and 4 inputs, you should follow that diagram!
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raid2506
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Post by raid2506 on Jan 6, 2014 13:42:13 GMT
Hello and welcome amygx. Vapers of Vapour like to Vape Vapourisers. Enjoy Vaping
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raid2506
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Post by raid2506 on Jan 6, 2014 13:28:10 GMT
Don't worry about it. I think it's fooked! Won't fire up at all so looks like its knackered. Will try and see If I can take it apart and fix if not oh dear, will have to buy a new one, lol It can be fixed unless the rotation has caused a short and fried it. The 510/eGo connector is a friction fit into the top plate and over time they can become loose. The wires will be tortured and the negative connection can make contact with the frame inside which carries the top board (also neg but if the hot wire has made contact too...). If yours has been rotating 360 then it's likely that one of the wires has given up and broken loose. It's not a major job to repair, T6 Torx bit for the screws and remove the top cover (careful with the button!), secure the connector (I recommend epoxy) and re solder the wire/s. If you don't fancy tackling the repair then I'm happy to do it if you cover the return postage.
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raid2506
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Post by raid2506 on Jan 6, 2014 13:15:42 GMT
Good find Super-Shiny and vindication for the argument. According to that table you can run 20 AWG throughout to no detriment, but if you already have both sizes then you can stick to the plan.
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raid2506
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Post by raid2506 on Jan 6, 2014 12:57:03 GMT
I would personally reach for the flux, solder and a nice fat wire. I just had another look at that pic and the Black wire is definitely soldered. Tin the wire, crimp it into the tab and then pile on the solder sounds like the way ahead. Yeah that is what i was thinking the more i looked at the wiring, the only reason i mentioned 20 AWG is because in the Milo build she uses 20 AWG connected to the DNA20 and then the other end too the Batteries, most of the other wiring for the rest of it she is using 24 AWG Cheers Raid I can't see an electrical reason for using the two different wire sizes here. If 20 AWG is optimal for the DNA20 then what is the benefit of changing to 24 AWG (a thinner wire with higher resistance) elsewhere in the circuit? The main considerations would be flexibility, space constraints and cost. As there is only 0.03 of a millimeter between them (core size) I don't see an advantage to cost or space saving. The flexibility of the wire will be very similar unless one is single core (solid) and the other multi-core (stranded). Although if that's the case then the stranded wire should be identified with 3 numbers, such as 24 7/32 (a 24 AWG wire made up of 7 strands of 32 AWG wire). If anybody out there knows any different please chime in.
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raid2506
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Post by raid2506 on Jan 6, 2014 12:16:35 GMT
Thanks raid2506 perfect, i take it i use 20 AWG wire for both + & - wiring? Also i notice with them CustomDuo battery cases the wiring looks like it does not use solder too connect, are the wires crimped to it or something? Hmm... Not sure on AWG or even SWG for that matter. I use thin wire for small stuff and fat wire for big stuff If your wire is fat enough you can crush the tab and pinch it in there but you will always run the risk of galvanic corrosion. I would personally reach for the flux, solder and a nice fat wire. I just had another look at that pic and the Black wire is definitely soldered. Tin the wire, crimp it into the tab and then pile on the solder sounds like the way ahead.
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raid2506
Mod Maker
Diablo Rey
This is my Riva - There are many like it but this one is mine!
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Post by raid2506 on Jan 6, 2014 11:51:53 GMT
If it's for your own personal use, be brave and buy the good stuff My personal favourite... CustomDuoI like that one, couldn't provide a diagram of how to wire it up could ya Excuse my drawing skills but this should do ya! If it doesn't help let me know.
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