monty
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Post by monty on Jul 28, 2013 14:09:35 GMT
I'd go with Jimmy's suggestion the better battery charger is the clincher. If you don't already have one then get an iGo while you're ordering from fasttech.
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monty
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Post by monty on Jul 26, 2013 15:01:18 GMT
2 years is the official shelf life for nic. People (including myself) are guessing longer if you keep it in the freezer. Fridge is almost as good as the freezer since it won't freeze andthere is only a few degrees difference. So if you overshop and need the freezer space popping in the back of the fridge for a bit won't hurt. Overtime the nic oxidizes (turning brown as it does) so it is important to fill your bottles absolutely full. Unknown whether it will react with plastic over time but glass would avoid the risk.
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monty
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Post by monty on Jul 25, 2013 15:25:54 GMT
Thanks for your good work.
As a vaper I don't want the pharmaceutical companies having anything to do with my ecigs. It is important that my vaping products are produced by people I trust. I don't trust bigP and here is why.
They have a track record of producing quack remedies and falsifying the data to show them as effective medicines. They have a track record of not publishing (sometimes fatal) side effects of their products. I fully expect their strategy for ecigs will include patenting additives and making false claims about them.
An example of a quack product, related to smoking cessation, is the nicotine patch. Here they have made false claims when the reality is that their effectiveness is on a par with placebos. Their mark up from the cost of the drug (nicotine) to the finished product (nicotine patch) has been astronomical.
They have not been fined over their false claims and misrepresentation of the data nor made to pay back the money money they charged for their bogus NRT. So clearly they will not have learned that this is not unacceptable. Instead they know it is profitable and will continue to do the same again.
Before any company is licensed to produce eliquid they should be required to produce, for the licensing authority, any literature sent by them, in the past, to doctors, hospitals, health authorities and pharmacists regarding smoking cessation products. Where they have made false claims about ecigarettes they should not be granted a license to produce eliquid. Where their literature has included false claims about ecigarettes which has led doctors, pharacists or health workers to warn patients against ecigarettes, they should be charged with corporate manslaughter.
I'm just one vaper but I don't want the pharmaceutical industry having anything to do with my ecigarettes because I don't trust them.
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monty
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Post by monty on Jul 24, 2013 20:23:35 GMT
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monty
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Post by monty on Jul 22, 2013 21:17:29 GMT
If you build your coil round a drill bit or tooth pick and then put the wick in then you can make the wick so that it is as wide as possible but still removable. Then you can take it out and clean it every day or two. That way your wick and coil can last a couple of months. I think 200 mesh is better with thick juice. You can try adding a very little vodka or distilled water when it gets thick or ditch the dregs... easier said than done. 28Vapeslater sell quite a thick syringe needle which can probably suck the dregs out.
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monty
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Post by monty on Jul 20, 2013 11:02:04 GMT
I have the AGA T+. I found the big chamber cooled things down too much but I've found a setup that overcomes this and works for me. It is still a work in progress so there is room for anyone to change it a bit and maybe improve. My starting point was Macafan's thread allaboute-cigarettes.proboards.com/thread/14719/aga-silica-wick?page=1&scrollTo=288251I reckoned I needed more Watts, I use silica for fruit eliquids and I prefer to vape them at low Watts. So the answer looked like dual wicks. I used the hole next to the negative post as the filler hole and the two holes on the other side for the wicks. First I took a piece of 3mm silica folded in two. I made it long enough to leave a loop above where the coil would go. I wrapped a small bit of mesh round the ends (that's a single piece of mesh round both ends) and inserted it in the hole which was slightly nearer the negative post. It went in very (surprisingly) easily with a push from a paperclip. I used .25mm Kanthal and bent back and twisted one end - just enough so that the twisted part runs from the negative terminal to the wick. This is to lower the resistance for that part so that it doesn't get too hot ( you might try tripling it up and then twisting it or using no resistance wire) The Kanthal then is attached to the negative post as normal and runs to the top of the wick. Well not quite the op as I left a loop so about level with the top of the centre post. I now coiled it down to the bottom using a pin as in the link above - as I have it now it's 4 turns in the coil. Next I made a second wick and put it in the hole next to the first wick. I coiled this from bottom to top . And that's about it. The juice I had in it is one I normally vape at about 6 or 6 1/2 Watts. I find it vapes best in this setup at around 9 or 10 Watts so about 50% more power I used 3mm silica because I only had 1mm and 3mm but the tight fit may restrict juice flow and 2mm might be best. The resistance is 4.2Ohms so 0.2mm Kanthal would give too high a resistance but thicker Kanthal would be fine, maybe better. Anyway it is not a difficult build. If you try a variation on this, post your findings. ps the amount of wick going through the hole is proportional to the square of the diameter so if you try with 2mm perhaps best to make triple thick:- 3 2 = 9 doubled up is 18 2 2 = 4 trebled up is 12 This may wick better as the silica won't be squeezed so much going through the hole. |
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monty
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Post by monty on Jul 16, 2013 5:31:43 GMT
8pm File on 4. Might give some insight although the program is often facile and hopelessly unbalanced.
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monty
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Post by monty on Jul 14, 2013 19:16:25 GMT
Nice one.
Good idea for us all, when we upgrade to clean and rewick our old stuff ready to pass on when somebody shows an interest.
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monty
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Post by monty on Jul 14, 2013 13:28:51 GMT
Best wishes Lisa.
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monty
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Post by monty on Jul 13, 2013 16:46:30 GMT
Many thanks, your a star Mags.
And thanks for the offer Giles.
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monty
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Post by monty on Jul 10, 2013 12:23:44 GMT
I am making a mod and I want the circuity that regulates the voltage in an eGo style battery. The battery should be one that has died of old age, not broken. It has to be a genuine Joyetech please and a twist would be best. I'm happy to pay the postage. The whole battery is fine, I can take it apart.
Thanks
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monty
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Post by monty on Jul 9, 2013 12:13:56 GMT
Good spot. Our best hope is that all the dirt comes out. Can feel big P's thieving little hand reaching into my wallet.
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monty
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Post by monty on Jun 27, 2013 17:35:59 GMT
If you want reliable make sure the twist is genuine Vision... eg from Cloud9vaping or JoyetechUK. If you want to save money by buying a knock off or generic may as well get it from Fasttech.
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monty
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Post by monty on Jun 26, 2013 8:24:05 GMT
Maybe we would have a better chance of beating bigP if we took the lead in regulations. Here's some things to consider.
1) Informationn about SS mesh. I tested some with a magnet, some was attracted, some wasn't. Shouldn't be difficult for vendors to state the grade of steel used and the other elements in the steel.
2) SS wire likewise.
3) Replace polycarbonate with pyrex. A bit more expensive but longer lasting. Also it would mean bigger devices or smaller capacity tanks.But polycarbonate gives the vape a bit of a plasticy taste which means some of the plastic is chemically reacting with the juice and we are inhaling it.
4) Quality control for silica wick - a minimum particle size.
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monty
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Post by monty on Jun 26, 2013 8:07:20 GMT
Anyone used both of these attys with silica and can tell me the difference in the vape?
I use the T+ but don't get the best vape. The chamber seems too big and the vapour cools. Currently I am trying with a second coil with no wick just to heat the chamber, which is better but not perfect.
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