a1laserboy
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Post by a1laserboy on Jan 10, 2014 18:20:41 GMT
Saved me getting a ohms tester, thanks digiw0rx. Came out at 0.7ohms, so he must of forgot! Did you find out what the battery is in the end boyofford ? Going by THIS calculator a .7 ohm load at 4.2v is about 6A (the battery won't stay at 4.2v for long). If the red battery is an AW IMR, then i'd say it's too risky to use with this coil, you'd probably be better off with a nice 18650 of a known make. Here are a couple of useful images I got from a Facebook group (drip atomizers only) - a bunch of loonies building mad low ohm stuff.
[edit] can't believe the image links worked first time [/edit]
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a1laserboy
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Post by a1laserboy on Jan 10, 2014 17:45:29 GMT
Nice one chaps
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a1laserboy
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Post by a1laserboy on Jan 10, 2014 16:22:39 GMT
There is one there that looks just like rip trippers
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a1laserboy
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Post by a1laserboy on Jan 10, 2014 15:18:01 GMT
That is your opinion, and you are perfectly entitled to it. Fortunately, I like it and couldn't care less what you think you know. Sorry, was having a bad day yesterday. We all have bad days mate, I was a bit off with you too, sorry for that. It is a bit slow at heating, but not so bad. I wound between 7 and 9 winds round a 2mm bit getting .9 ohms. Can't remember exactly how many as it was about 2 months ago now and my eyes are too bad to see it properly to count.
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a1laserboy
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Post by a1laserboy on Jan 10, 2014 1:26:52 GMT
Looks like a nice combo - good choice on the atty, I have the v1 and the v2 does look much better. I use .45mm for single micro coils By the way that's absolutely pointless. .45mm has to much heat up time to be viable. That is your opinion, and you are perfectly entitled to it. Fortunately, I like it and couldn't care less what you think you know.
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a1laserboy
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Post by a1laserboy on Jan 9, 2014 19:41:18 GMT
Very cool
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a1laserboy
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Post by a1laserboy on Jan 9, 2014 19:37:57 GMT
Looks like a nice combo - good choice on the atty, I have the v1 and the v2 does look much better. I use .45mm for single micro coils
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a1laserboy
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Post by a1laserboy on Jan 9, 2014 17:14:45 GMT
You could put kayfun 2.1 into the 'with the phrase' field, it just came up with 67 pages of results. Although it finds anything with kayfun, not only kayfun 2.1……..
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a1laserboy
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Post by a1laserboy on Jan 8, 2014 0:10:13 GMT
Chrissie Yes, you already said that in reply number 4. I will see if I can figure out how to allow ads here. After all, I was served up some choice porn ads previously by proboards, can't wait to get them again.
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a1laserboy
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Post by a1laserboy on Jan 6, 2014 23:03:15 GMT
Works fine for me most of the time wether i use the links at the top or bottom. Sometimes I do get it happen though. I am using adblock in Safari, not specifically to get rid of ads here but but to get rid of them in general everywhere. I feel that they encroach too much on my internet experience. TOS or not, I'll continue to use it
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a1laserboy
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Post by a1laserboy on Jan 6, 2014 20:59:32 GMT
You shouldn't put enough cotton in there to reach the juice channels, they must be completely clear.
[edit] also, I heard that the clones do have a tighter draw than the originals [\edit]
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a1laserboy
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Post by a1laserboy on Jan 6, 2014 20:06:49 GMT
7 amps is a lot of current to have in your hand Some 18650 batteries can output a maximum 30A continuous which is reachable by using a 0.14 ohm coil on a freshly charged battery at 4.2V. 7A would be a 0.6 ohm coil which is becoming a normal resistance for some.
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a1laserboy
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Post by a1laserboy on Jan 6, 2014 19:59:37 GMT
According to the documentation LINK the units are recommended for use in Lithium cells and battery packs, and rechargeable battery packs and chargers. From that I would say that heat within the unit won't be a problem. If wires could warm up from current draw through them, then the wires are not big enough to take the load. Also, if you are worried about hot wires generally because of the environment, you can get higher temperature rated wire then regular pvc insulated wire. Does the board need to have an external fuse? if not, then there is no need for it. If you want to be safe, then make sure you use wire that is big enough to take the maximum current the battery is able to output from the battery to the fuse. Does the board not have it's own over current protection onboard? The unit you have asked about has a fairly slow trip time - 1.7 seconds. Also, it is a 4A fuse, but saying that, they also state that the device may withstand higher interrupt current at lower voltages. The 6.9A bit is the maximum trip current that is safe, I assume that beyond that, the unit will be irreparably damaged.
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a1laserboy
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Post by a1laserboy on Jan 6, 2014 17:11:18 GMT
I always thought they only do it if your eye site is stable in its badness i.e. doesn't worsen over time. I am most probably completely wrong. You could always try a pair of these: link
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a1laserboy
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Post by a1laserboy on Jan 6, 2014 17:00:14 GMT
I'd say he's lucky that the insurance covers dropping it. From what I've heard, most phone insurances will only pay out if you get mugged at gunpoint and report it to the police, getting a crime number.
Does your household insurance cover it? you might find that you will get a better offer from them as they will likely give you a cash value similar to the original worth of the phone.
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