hijack
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Post by hijack on Jun 9, 2015 16:44:11 GMT
Mixing Porn. Yeh it was too good to bin, that one
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hijack
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Post by hijack on Jun 9, 2015 8:26:13 GMT
Hi. I'm looking into starting to mix my own liquids soon. I was wondering how much space the equipment needed for mixing would take up? Also which kits do people recommend? And what calculator to use on an android device as my phone/tablet are the only way I can get online! TIA Not too much space is needed. I cleared out a drawer to use and only half of it is full, and that was for every thing vape related that would look untidy if left on view. I have some small size plastic storage containers from 'Wilco's' that i use for vape bits, 1 is used for all the bits i need when rebuilding, kanthal spools and the little bits a pieces you use when coiling and wicking. A 2nd one is full of the 10ml concentrate bottles and syringes+needles, so they don't roll around everywhere. The 500ml bottles of PG,VG,NIC are the largest bottles i have to find a home for. Thats the whole of my mixing supplies(not including what has been mixed). The NIC ive had for around 9 months (bearly made an impression) PG got same time and 1/4 left, when VG bottle gets low, I pop into Boots and grab a couple of their 200ml(vegetable glycerin) bottles and refill the larger bottle.(keeping the 200ml glass bottles to mix up larger amounts of what i use most).
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hijack
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Post by hijack on Jun 9, 2015 6:55:37 GMT
The 15W MOD's will start to fall a little short at 1 Ohm, But not by so much that you will need something new. I vaped a 0.8 on a VTR and it worked OK.
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hijack
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Post by hijack on Jun 8, 2015 18:56:48 GMT
I'd love to be able to update my Rokchip (RK 3188) based TV box but no matter what I try I cannot get one of 3 PC's to recognise it when plugged into the USB, I keep getting "unknown device" I uninstall/install the drivers but still get the same. Usually pluging these things into a windows PC requires a set of drivers on your PC before you can go any further. My PC needed the installation of a driver set before it would recognize my MTK device. The RK chips are well supported over there as well, but if like me you hadn't done that sort of thing before(i not even had Android b4), you will need to do some reading so you are sure what you need to do before attempting. YouTube was good as well, once you find out what tools to use, you can bet that someone has done a clip showing the actual process, which helps a lot to see the flash-software etc, in use.
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hijack
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Post by hijack on Jun 8, 2015 10:06:47 GMT
Yeah had cotton balls on this KFL+ since last night decoyA lot better than jap cotton and easier to get to behave Thanks for everyone's help! i used the 1st method i posted for yonks and it worked well but still weeped a fair amount the pancake method is just so wrong and it shouldn't work without leaking but it do and you can run daft wattage without dry hits,you gotta try next time you rewick,but with cotton balls(my kayfun has had half a tank in it for a week and not a drop of juice has leaked/weeped That first video that decoy posted is what got me sorted with the KF. Have altered diameter of coil to 4mm as occasionally it misbehaved. Since doing that its been working well, and my build hasn't changed for last six months or more. As mentioned much earlier you can get an air pocket trapped in the channel between the pre-soaked wick and the bottom of channel. This can be shifted by placing a finger over air-hole and giving it a sharp toke and you we see an air bubble rise, indicating that at least some of that air pocket has been replaced with juice. only try this a couple of times, if you do it too much youll end up filling the whole thing to the top of deck and your back to flooding. This, I take, it is due to it burning? and may well indicate that trapped air pocket. You shouldn't need to change wick after flooding, a saturated wick is what you want. Flooding isn't caused from juice dripping off the wick into the air-hole. Its from the juice level rising to high inside the chamber, until it flows onto the top deck where the coil sits and into the air-hole. If its burning right up to the point it starts flooding, then that would indicate to me that my wick was strangled as it went through the coil. As decoy says at the bottom of that quote above, just use cotton balls from Boots(unscented,unbleached). People used cotton balls for a long time with no problem, if the setup doesn't work with cotton balls, then changing to cellulose, rayon or other wont fix it. As youll find the amount that use through the coil will change depending on the materials properties, and will just throw you off working out what works. EDIT: as an after-thought, not all clones are good copies of the original, there are some shockers out there that will leave a bad taste in your mouth. (forgive the double meaning there). Take good look at it and see if you can see anything that may be causing your problems, bearing in mind that it uses a vacuum principle to maintain the juice at a certain level and prevents all the juice you pour in from pouring back out through the airhole. When taking a draw, the pressure drop due to you sucking, causes the juice to rise up the channels to soak the bottom of the wick again. When you stop it pulls the juice back down and a little air that will enter the reservoir each time to replace the juice, maintaining that equilibrium. Sometimes a badly cut channel or an ill fitting sleeve or even too short a height of channel or from bottom of deck to top can be the reason one of these wont function properly.
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hijack
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Post by hijack on Jun 8, 2015 6:08:41 GMT
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Post by hijack on Jun 7, 2015 4:07:18 GMT
When I started mixing, I was still finding flavors, so would make a 30ml bottle and pretty much try it to see if the flavor was yuk or umm. Now that I'm more settled on a particular blend of flavors. I mix it in 200ml glass bottles (which you accumulate if you get your VG from Boots). I have 2 bottles and when one is empty I mix up 200ml more and start using the other bottle, which by now has been sitting on a shelf in my living room, for the last 8 weeks and has gone a nice dark orange shade. I don't really touch it after its been made. Only when checking the color and I have given I little shake and put it back on the shelf. When I make it I'll shake for 5 mins to get it well mixed. And that's about it.
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Post by hijack on Jun 7, 2015 3:07:14 GMT
That's a great resource hijack. I mod Samsungs for a local shop so I generally stick with xda. But now I can do some clones too (I won't be telling the shop owner, he'll start peddling fakes for more profit) thumb up Yeh they have quite a few clever people over there. XDA Is another of the forums i was looking at. It makes rooting and moding a breeze with you can cheery pick the mods you like from these forums. This was how well supported the Cube X9 was. The list is even bigger now so ill have to take a look and see if i can update any Mods. I got it rooted, flashed the 900supersport ROM, added TWRP , increased the app partition size from 2GB to 6GB (thats because MTK's only save apps to that partition and the rest is storage, although Android does allow you to store part of the apps files outside of the app partition), got a cool boot-up screen, and went to playstore for 'Vire Launcher' (free). Its a nice UI actually, give it a try, its easy to use and set up, has about 12 different styles of 'page transition' over half are 3D type, a load icon effects that impose themselves on most icon packs, a load of folder styles ect. Most of the the UI's that have 3D need paying for but someone recommended 'Vire' saying it had some cool features and they weren't wrong. Now I know you mod phones or tab's for a shop, i wonder i can make some extra cash down here doing something along those lines. Ill P.M. you when i get up tomorrow, I you don't mind?
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hijack
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Post by hijack on Jun 6, 2015 13:26:01 GMT
The data sheet describes the protection that is required in the battery pack for safe operation...The single cells are unprotected.
The ones i saw had a red wrapper maybe they do both
Yes i think intl-outdoor have re-wrapped the Sanyo so it has the circuit, as the original are a cell for use in a pack
I think all ICR that you can get in unprotected form are designed to be use in a pack with with the protection in the pack rather than the individual cells.
Thats why I didnt like the idea of 'pack' ICR's being broken up and used as cheap batteries for vaping, as even the manufacturers tell you they need protection.
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Post by hijack on Jun 6, 2015 13:10:11 GMT
EDIT: sry inappropriate comment to a lady back
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Post by hijack on Jun 6, 2015 12:26:48 GMT
Sorry to thread jack a little but I have some Sanyo UR18650FM cells. Are these any good? Safe, dangerous or lethal? These are the type of battery that I would try replace at some point with a safer chemistry battery, but VapingBad is right in saying in can be used in lower power electronic devices as these devices have built in protection, unlike that battery which should really be sold with its own protection circuit. Just be cautious with it, and if you see any damage to the wrapping, 'bin' it.
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Post by hijack on Jun 6, 2015 11:20:19 GMT
£180,!!!!!!!!!! i use there download free for 30 days then use Dazs Bootloader to unlock it...zilch free..... LoL you caught me moaning about something I didnt pay for. I download the Leaked O.E.M. and also daz to load the certificate at pre-start. andy01424 does that mean i can get an SP1 copy from ones of the MS resource bins and use daz on that as well? sry an edit turned into a double post.
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Post by hijack on Jun 6, 2015 11:15:14 GMT
£180,!!!!!!!!!! i use there download free for 30 days then use Dazs Bootloader to unlock it...zilch free..... LoL you caught me moaning about something I didnt pay for. I download the Leaked O.E.M. and also daz to load the certificate at pre-start.
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Post by hijack on Jun 6, 2015 10:15:29 GMT
Yeh i see the point. Its is dependent on the resistance of Mod, its switches, the batteries internal resistance as to what one would consider a safe working load.
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Post by hijack on Jun 6, 2015 9:59:28 GMT
EDIT: I think i can see what your saying Ripshod. The voltage will drop, and HEAT will be the effect. The battery will 'give out' when the heat becomes to much for it to bear? and that will occur if you continue if you continue placing too much stress on it? But the drop in voltage does reduce the impact but if you go to far overheating will be the result?
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