2risky
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Post by 2risky on Feb 28, 2012 17:29:36 GMT
Yuk. wires.co.uk looks good, four quid ish for 14 x 25 cm. I'll probably go for that unless there's a group buy going. No rush at the moment.
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2risky
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Post by 2risky on Feb 28, 2012 17:15:02 GMT
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2risky
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Post by 2risky on Feb 28, 2012 16:11:38 GMT
Thanks for the explain Gordy.
I'll have some if you get enough people. I'm trying to avoid spending like thirty quid on experimental wicks when the project is to save on money and wastage.
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2risky
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Post by 2risky on Feb 28, 2012 15:19:01 GMT
Thanks for the responses.
So how do I go about fashioning a ss wick, if I go for that? Roll it up? I suppose you need a certain gauge of mesh, but how much do you use per wick and how do you prepare it (I can do the oxidising bit I think)? Completely new to this stuff.
I only really want to shell out once for exactly the right stuff. Most of this seems to be sold in lifetime supply quantities.
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2risky
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Post by 2risky on Feb 28, 2012 14:57:40 GMT
Boges crackle and pop a bit, nothing to worry about. Kangers have coils at the bottom , so they're usually quieter.
If you fill them and then replace the condoms at both ends they keep very well, and there's some flavour benefit in letting them soak for a bit.
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2risky
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Post by 2risky on Feb 28, 2012 14:43:00 GMT
So I'm going to re-fit my Ego Vision Starwotsits (henceforth EVS, though I'm tempted to call them Alvins) at some point. I've got some decent wire (thanks Dee), but I'd like to know more about wick, so I'd appreciate any help.
The variables seem to be a) material and b) form factor
a) material The choices appear to be glass fibre and stainles steel, maybe kevlar fibre too.
I'm doubting if ss is suitable for the EVS because it seems to me that part of the function of its wick is to seal the inner chamber from the tank, and I fear that ss may not compress well enough to prevent juice leaks. Is that sensible?
Glass fibre seems to be standard, but if it gets too chopped up into dust it's quite nasty stuff I understand, and it's not that hardwearing. For a fumbler like myself this could be a problem.
Another possibility I've seen mentioned is kevlar. You can get this in clown shops for fire-eating wicks etc. What are its relative merits compared to glass fibre, anyone know? It looks cheap enough and it could also serve as body armour should I happen to enter a combat situation.
b) form factor I haven't measured the wick in my original EVS, but it looks to be somewhere between 1 and 2mm in diameter, also not sure if it's woven. My eyesight is imperfect. Is it the same as CE2 wick?
So if you could specify a perfect wick for Alvins, what would it be made of, what would it measure, and would it be woven or just strands? I'd appreciate any facts or opinions because I'm in the dark on this. Please be as techy as you like.
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2risky
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Post by 2risky on Feb 25, 2012 12:19:57 GMT
Des, I'm just off out on the lash for the next couple of days, a rare occurrence these days, but I'll have another go on Monday if necessary with diagrams.
Basically you can wiggle the bottom/outside metal collar off its shorter plastic underskirt (part of the main body hidden by the collar) by angling the collar just slightly wrt the underskirt and then moving round the circle to propagate and increase the gap, by small degrees. It won't just pull off, or mine wouldn't, because the ridges in the underskirt grip hard if you try to pull straight out.
I'm sure there are other ways to get it off, probably better ways. This is just what I stumbled into.
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2risky
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Post by 2risky on Feb 25, 2012 9:23:31 GMT
The only tricky bit is getting the metal collar off without too much forcing. The collar itself is quite robust so I was worried more about the plastic body.
I used pliers to lever the collar out very slightly on one side, pulling out and levering down, then turned the barrel 90 degrees and lever out again etc until there was a big enough gap all round to get the edge of a knife or similar between the top of the metal collar and the plastic lip it was originally flush with. Then just wiggled the knife edge around to open the gap all round.
Once the gap opens more than a couple of mm it pretty much slides off by hand and the gubbins comes out easily. Obviously at your own risk, but it worked for me. Sadly I'm too ugly to make videos.
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Post by 2risky on Feb 24, 2012 19:56:14 GMT
Because I'm a geek who's compelled to take things to bits, and I have a spare.
It needed a proper clean too, I was rinsing with voddy/water, and getting caramelised particles in the juice (in future I'll just rinse with water), so I wanted to do a dry burn and internal clean. I've been using it quite heavily and changing juices a lot.
I've just done a full clean and dry burn by the way (your method above) and it went back together OK, so thanks. It seems I will be able to use my wire after all, as long as it continues to hang together without leaking.
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2risky
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Post by 2risky on Feb 24, 2012 19:03:07 GMT
I got as far as removing the bottom collar on my first try at dismantling, by levering it off with pliers and then a knife blade, but then I lost my nerve.
Hope it does come apart somehow or I've wasted money buying resistance wire etc.
That's two products I've tried that were made less valuable by design (Ego C is the same thing pretty much). It's a conspiracy, I tell you..
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2risky
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Post by 2risky on Feb 24, 2012 10:51:22 GMT
Yep, good old built-in obsolescence. Disappointed actually, I think they shot themselves in the foot too - how many people are seriously going to re-fit them? For those who do, just sell 'official' wick and wire for a moderately extortionate price. Capitalists are so dumb sometimes.
Pretty sure there's nothing suitable in my tool box.
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2risky
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Post by 2risky on Feb 24, 2012 10:07:11 GMT
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2risky
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Post by 2risky on Feb 24, 2012 1:19:54 GMT
I wonder if it's possible to use pipe gauzes/screens, little circles of stainless steel mesh that cost about 10p each that you can get from headshops (so I won't link because NSFW). Not that I know anything about that sort of thing, just saying. Might be easier.
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2risky
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Post by 2risky on Feb 23, 2012 15:24:18 GMT
Yes, thanks Gordy. When I say "clean" I actually mean "swish a bit of water round" to clear excess juice. The choice is waiting for it to dry or refilling immediately and spending a minute puffing away to clear the wick. It's not really a major difficulty. One tip is to half fill with water/voddy, then put the mouthpiece back in before shaking it. This protects the inside bits from water. I do have a spare one, but I'm too tight to buy one clearo per flavour, I normally alternate three juices in a day. The spare is an alternate for when I have to replace the wick & coil on the other.
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Post by 2risky on Feb 22, 2012 22:48:12 GMT
I'm loving mine with Ego batt/3 ohm/20mg.
It really vapes well, dead easy to clean, easy to use and tidy to look at. All the other nonsense I've bought will be going into storage.
These could be recommended to noobs in place of cartos imho, they're better and easier. Much rather have one of these than a pack of boge/kanger. Only slight faff is changing flavours because once cleaned they take a while to get flavour coming through again.
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