2risky
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Post by 2risky on Jun 22, 2014 15:26:28 GMT
For flavour, Kayfun 3.1 ES and change the wick (and thus probably coil) regularly. Some VW mod or other will do the job, electrons all taste exactly the same to me.
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2risky
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Post by 2risky on May 17, 2014 13:35:12 GMT
I prefer ekowool to standard silica wick mainly because it is woven rather than just twisted. That makes it a lot easier to work with, since I find twisted silica quickly unravels into a mess while I am trying to wrangle it into something useful.
The problem I had with cotton wool (in a Kayfun) was that, while it wicked really well and had a good taste (after a quick soak in hot water to remove perfumes etc), it did not hold its shape for long, causing leaks and blockages, wasting a load of juice.
So I use ekowool for both Kayfun (3mm) and Ody (2mm), because it's easier to work with and doesn't fall to bits as soon as you touch it, cut it or try to wrap a wire around it.
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2risky
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Post by 2risky on Apr 13, 2014 15:30:54 GMT
the nitecore wouldve been a pita having to charge batts in pairs so no good for me I may not have explained that the Nitecore i4 charges single batteries perfectly well. It is recommended somewhere in the smallprint that AAAs are charged in pairs simply because they can't always be trusted to withstand such a fast charge rate, but modern vaping strength batteries are fine for charging individually. Anyhow I hope your choice works out well for you. |
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2risky
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Post by 2risky on Apr 12, 2014 16:40:15 GMT
Intellicharger/Nitecore i4 gets my vote.
Mine came from Aliexpress.
They go for under £11 currently, you prob have to wait about 2 weeks for free delivery.
Four charging bays, and importantly you can recharge 2 batteries simultaneously at 750mA, or 4 at half speed, so it's roughly twice as fast as the tr001 depending on the bays you use.
The fast charging is the big advantage over the tr001, even many of the expensive chargers aren't that fast, but it adapts the charging to the state of the battery so it's also likely to be safer than the cranky old tr001.
Also recharges AA and AAA very quickly if that's useful.
Silent operation.
Simple to use, three LEDs per bay tell you the progress of charging in a totally obvious way. If all 3 flash, turn the battery round, you've put it in the wrong way. When all 3 are lit solid, the battery is charged.
Very pleased with mine.
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2risky
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Post by 2risky on Apr 10, 2014 21:40:19 GMT
The ultrasonic won't harm the o rings. If you've had any strong juice in it like pluid, it won't take the taste or smell out of them though. Ta very much. |
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2risky
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Post by 2risky on Apr 10, 2014 20:28:31 GMT
Don't want to hijack, but does anyone know how well rubber o-rings stand up to ultrasonic cleaning?
I've got a kayfun with internal rubber seals on the filling inlet, I was wondering if I should just rinse it out, or whether throwing it in the cleaner would ruin it.
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2risky
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Post by 2risky on Apr 10, 2014 1:27:51 GMT
I got my kayfun-ish in the post today, must be the same batch.
Slightly mental person, but this is a good video guide to a simple chimney coil (he does a standard coil first), luckily I already had some wire lying about. Good that you can use ordinary cotton wool for wicking.
So far it has a bit more of a kick to it than I'm used to. I like the big juice capacity, but it's a PITA to fill. Worth what little I paid for it, though it took forever to come back in stock and forever to arrive in the post.
It's actually an easy RBA to recoil, just use something like the smooth end of a drill bit to wrap the wire, screw it down, see if the vamo will light the coil up (if it doesn't just make a longer coil with more turns), then bung some cotton wool in roughly the right places. For a change I didn't spend hours messing about with a rewick, literally took about 10 min and I haven't even seen a kayfun before. Give it a go is my advice.
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2risky
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Post by 2risky on Feb 28, 2014 23:16:21 GMT
Sorry it didn't clear the problem up. Make sure you put plenty through all the button holes since it can't do much harm. Assuming it's the same design as a V2, the button is a lump of metal, it pushes down on a smaller button fixed onto the circuit board which contains the return springy thing. At this point I'd be tempted to either open it up and see what's going on and/or just buy a new one. If you're a bit strapped for cash like me you can get V2s for about £25-£30 by the way, which makes the idea of spending days repairing it a bit redundant unless you're into taking things to bits. There's some tech details here for disassembly, and you should be able to get an idea of the inside gubbins. allaboute-cigarettes.proboards.com/thread/23046/vamo-top-replace-guide-needed?page=1&scrollTo=428153Lately they've been glueing the circuit boards in quite strongly as well. Good luck whatever you decide. |
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2risky
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Post by 2risky on Feb 21, 2014 16:45:22 GMT
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2risky
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Post by 2risky on Feb 20, 2014 23:20:17 GMT
Nope, but the first thing I'd try is squirting a load of electrical contact cleaner into the button openings. That's if you have any to squirt.
Most handyman types will have a can in their shed somewhere.
If nothing else it will eliminate the theory that your buttons are sticking, shorting or firing randomly because they're gunked up somehow.
Anything more serious may require disassembly or just buying a new one.
Is it relatively new? If so try contacting the supplier.
Has it suffered any accidents or duckings in liquid recently?
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2risky
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Post by 2risky on Feb 19, 2014 19:26:31 GMT
Er, yep. However, satire is probably just as effective as picking out the factual errors of publications that don't really care about facts.  |
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2risky
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Coils
Feb 19, 2014 15:41:27 GMT
Post by 2risky on Feb 19, 2014 15:41:27 GMT
Here is some science, for which I apologize in advance.
Resistance in a wire is proportional to its length and inversely proportional to the cross sectional area of the wire. It also depends on the material the wire is made from.
Assuming the same material, to increase resistance you would need to make the wire longer and/or decrease its cross section (ie use a thinner wire).
Specifically
R = (r x L)/A
where R is resistance,
L is length,
A is cross-sectional area
r is known as the resistivity of the material, often denoted by the greek letter rho, but not in this case due to the difficulty of finding it on a qwerty keyboard.
So extra coils = higher resistance.
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2risky
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Post by 2risky on Feb 19, 2014 15:22:43 GMT
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2risky
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Post by 2risky on Feb 14, 2014 0:37:27 GMT
Cool. but remember the longer tank will shorten the length of the mouthpiece, so bear it in mind when you choose what length to get if you like a longer mouthpiece.
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2risky
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Post by 2risky on Feb 13, 2014 22:42:12 GMT
Fair enough. When I looked for the same things they were like hen's teeth. The suppliers of standard parts were all out of stock and roughly the same price or more than the KF with post included. I suppose he has no stock. Shame, the 30mm windows are good. You could try the customer service messaging on the contacts page if you're struggling to get one. You can get steel tank parts also to tide you over, but they aren't as good.
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