2risky
Senior Member
Joined:December 2011
Posts: 268
Location:
Likes: 3
Recent Posts
Last Online Jan 20, 2013 20:04:24 GMT
|
Post by 2risky on Feb 13, 2014 22:21:37 GMT
|
|
2risky
Senior Member
Joined:December 2011
Posts: 268
Location:
Likes: 3
Recent Posts
Last Online Jan 20, 2013 20:04:24 GMT
|
Post by 2risky on Feb 13, 2014 14:48:59 GMT
|
|
2risky
Senior Member
Joined:December 2011
Posts: 268
Location:
Likes: 3
Recent Posts
Last Online Jan 20, 2013 20:04:24 GMT
|
Post by 2risky on Feb 12, 2014 23:02:52 GMT
I like Vamos, mine is in constant use. I'd get another. Got a V2 SS originally from Vaporbreak. I recently replaced the top cap with a V5 top cap, an improved design, easier to clean too. I use it with a SS Ody clone. That's how cheap I am.
Problems. 1) Vamo threads are chromed brass so using them with a stainless steel threaded atomizer setup can destroy the threads and make the Vamo useless. I use a tank airflow controller as mentioned above, it costs £3 to replace if the threads go and you can screw the SS threads into it rather than constantly screwing and unscrewing the Vamo threads.. 2) On the V2, if you push/screw your centre pin down too far it compresses the o-ring under the pin and shorts against the body, giving 0.0 ohms. You can try to lift the pin back over the inside ring, but if it goes once it tends to go again. This ring can be replaced with a more rubust one and a bit of fiddling with a screwdriver, it's on youtube. The airflow controller helps here too, so long as you don't ever over-tighten it. It looks like the V5 head doesn't have this problem, new design.
Advice 1) Be careful to preserve Vamo putty threads, use a tank airflow controller to prevent wear. 2) Be careful not to overtighten anything ever on a V2 head. 3) Only buy the SS versions, the plated ones quickly start to look tatty, while the SS bodies are tough and good looking like me. 4) Only use it in RMS mode.
I considered a full V5, but it doesn't do anything new over the V2 and costs more.
|
|
2risky
Senior Member
Joined:December 2011
Posts: 268
Location:
Likes: 3
Recent Posts
Last Online Jan 20, 2013 20:04:24 GMT
|
Post by 2risky on Feb 7, 2014 19:03:53 GMT
It's working now with the new cap. It's easy enough to get the centre pin soldered as long as it isn't inside the cap. Grateful for your advice.
|
|
2risky
Senior Member
Joined:December 2011
Posts: 268
Location:
Likes: 3
Recent Posts
Last Online Jan 20, 2013 20:04:24 GMT
|
Post by 2risky on Feb 7, 2014 18:21:27 GMT
Thanks very much for those. I did some web searching, but i haven't found anyone with this specific problem. Lots of stuff about how to get the old cap off, which isn't a problem. The only thing I need to know is how to join the white wire to the centre pin. For that, it would be useful to know whether the centre pin is supposed to come out of the body or remain fixed. It doesn't shift with strong finger pressure which is why I suspect it's not meant to be removed, but then I can't get a solder joint. Catch 22.
The alternative is that I will keep getting more and more violent with the centre pin until either something breaks or it pops out.
edit: it came out when I pushed it hard with a screwdriver. panic over.
|
|
2risky
Senior Member
Joined:December 2011
Posts: 268
Location:
Likes: 3
Recent Posts
Last Online Jan 20, 2013 20:04:24 GMT
|
Post by 2risky on Feb 7, 2014 17:23:58 GMT
I'm trying to replace my duff Vamo V2 top cap with a V5 top cap like this here www.stealthvape.co.uk/vamo-top-cap?filter_name=vamo%20top%20capIt looks like it will fit OK. Unfortunately the vendor (Rob) is ill and his wife isn't techy. The problem I am having is soldering the wire onto the centre pin. With a V2 cap it's a matter of pulling the pin out of the body so the pin can get hot enough to take the solder joint. With this new cap design I have tried gently pushing the pin out, it doesn't want to budge, but I don't want to get rough with it until I know it's meant to come out. I can't solder it with the pin in place inside the cap because the heat drains away too fast and even high lead solder won't stick. I have used lashings of flux to no avail. Anyone know if the V5 pin comes out? If so, how? Am I just being pathetic? I don't want to break anything. Assume please that I am capable of basic soldering. Should this be in tips tricks etc, sorry if so.
|
|
2risky
Senior Member
Joined:December 2011
Posts: 268
Location:
Likes: 3
Recent Posts
Last Online Jan 20, 2013 20:04:24 GMT
|
Post by 2risky on Aug 18, 2013 15:52:37 GMT
V2 design is a lot better imo. Less mucking about trying to get a connection. I'll grab a couple of ceramics, thanks Perps. Is there a UK source for them do you know (shopping guru )? The postage from Germany is a bit steep for small, cheap items.
|
|
2risky
Senior Member
Joined:December 2011
Posts: 268
Location:
Likes: 3
Recent Posts
Last Online Jan 20, 2013 20:04:24 GMT
|
Post by 2risky on Aug 18, 2013 6:51:44 GMT
Hey guys, So can I gather that THIS is a safe bet that works well? How does it compare to THIS? I'm sorry if this has already been answered but I've only skim read the thread as most of it went over my head To the first question, I know the short Nautilus V2, bought from the same place, is a good solid bit of kit, so I suppose the longer version will be too; it's identical except for a longer mouthpiece and tank. Idk the Hercules. They can be a bit fiddly. Wick + 2 kinds of wire needed. If that part goes over your head I respectfully suggest you don't buy one just yet. Plenty of how-to videos about though.
|
|
2risky
Senior Member
Joined:December 2011
Posts: 268
Location:
Likes: 3
Recent Posts
Last Online Jan 20, 2013 20:04:24 GMT
|
Post by 2risky on Aug 17, 2013 9:13:58 GMT
Arise, thread, and do my bidding. Marharharharharhar.
Just wanted to throw in a few comments about the differences between the cheapo (£20 delivered) V1 clones and the Nautilus V2 proper clones (forty quid). I got both, starting with the cheapo one.
Cheapo clone + several pre-made wick/wire inserts supplied + spare orings of all sizes + well made cardboard presentation box + awesome vaping flavour at times + looks spiffy on a Vamo - juice flow function doesn't work well, the unit I have usually leaks enough to supply the wick with juice however. You can open the valve to re-wet the wick (with a few structural adjustments, see below), but don't ever suck while the valve is open because all the juice floods out. - as supplied, two o-rings inside the tank (threaded over the mouthpiece and pushed down before fitting the tank cap) prevent the operation of the flow valve by preventing rotation of the mouthpiece. I found it useful to remove these. - no instructions, which I regard as impolite - a lot of gurgling and flooding went on until i worked out exactly how to manage the juice flow valve - mouthpiece appears to have some chrome finish in places, I guess partly brass underneath, but only SS is visible when assembled.
7/10
Probably my fault, but the steel threading and weight of the mod also deformed and killed the soft brass 510 connector on my Vamo V2. I bought a £3 tank airflow valve from Jason which now protects my faithful old Lavatube, and I'll probably use the same valve to repair the Vamo somehow, it's roughly the correct size.
I also cracked the clear tank, probably by overtightening, so instead of replacing the tank cylinder I bought a Nautilus v2.
Nautilus V2 + Loads better quality machining and fit + juice flow valve works properly, can be left open while vaping + V2 design, easier to connect the ground wire + no gurgles or flooding yet - no instructions, no box, no spare rings, no wick assemblies
9/10. I lurve it. Need a clear tank part for the V2 though, easier to judge refills.
|
|
2risky
Senior Member
Joined:December 2011
Posts: 268
Location:
Likes: 3
Recent Posts
Last Online Jan 20, 2013 20:04:24 GMT
|
Post by 2risky on Jan 20, 2013 20:02:01 GMT
Cheers Jason. On the positive side, I have rediscovered choc orange, it's a lot nicer than I remembered, or possibly it improved with age as many of us do.
|
|
2risky
Senior Member
Joined:December 2011
Posts: 268
Location:
Likes: 3
Recent Posts
Last Online Jan 20, 2013 20:04:24 GMT
|
Post by 2risky on Jan 20, 2013 16:11:09 GMT
Any solid updates yet on the strawberry ic, please? My emergency stocks are taking a hammering, and might soon expire. Trying to decide what to do about it. *shakes fist at HMRC*
|
|
2risky
Senior Member
Joined:December 2011
Posts: 268
Location:
Likes: 3
Recent Posts
Last Online Jan 20, 2013 20:04:24 GMT
|
Post by 2risky on Jan 18, 2013 0:23:27 GMT
These ones do, they're pretty good, just a bit too long. And karma, I did say I wouldn't remove the end. I'll prolly just bash the end a bit flatter with a hammer. That was a joke. Thanks for your concern though.
|
|
2risky
Senior Member
Joined:December 2011
Posts: 268
Location:
Likes: 3
Recent Posts
Last Online Jan 20, 2013 20:04:24 GMT
|
Post by 2risky on Jan 17, 2013 22:35:45 GMT
Perhaps a slightly different model. If i was brave I might remove the raised nipple/connector on the top, only I'm not sure what's beneath and I don't want to ruin the battery. Still, it works, so it's fine.
|
|
2risky
Senior Member
Joined:December 2011
Posts: 268
Location:
Likes: 3
Recent Posts
Last Online Jan 20, 2013 20:04:24 GMT
|
Post by 2risky on Jan 17, 2013 13:54:27 GMT
|
|
2risky
Senior Member
Joined:December 2011
Posts: 268
Location:
Likes: 3
Recent Posts
Last Online Jan 20, 2013 20:04:24 GMT
|
Post by 2risky on Jan 10, 2013 23:23:18 GMT
Great info, thanks everyone. For me short circuit protection is most important, even if the mod has it fitted already. I have been known to inadvertently launch a pint of tea across the occasional room, so if there's a battery lying around.. cheapest battery is the AW... it will save you money in the long run I'm sure that's right Gordy, but the only money I ever seem to have is the short run kind.
|
|