denis9t9
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Post by denis9t9 on Apr 22, 2013 9:04:54 GMT
I thought it may be just the SS version they had done it on because they wouldn`t be able to solder SS, but it goes all the way back to the early ones as well, took my first one to bits lol. denis9t9Thanks robby, At least the device is a reasonably simple one to strip down for a good workhorse, with pic's from your self with Monamach's help we all can get a better insite as to what & how to fix any potential problems we may come across. Keep up the good work. lol. As ever this forum comes up trumps due to its knowledgeable members.
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robby
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Post by robby on Apr 22, 2013 9:05:23 GMT
Thanks robby, At least the device is a reasonably simple one to strip down for a good workhorse, with pic's from your self with Monamach's help we all can get a better insite as to what & how to fix any potential problems we may come across. Keep up the good work. lol. As ever this forum comes up trumps due to its knowledgeable members. Thanks denis9t9, yes, it is a good learner device, doesnt cost the earth either
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robby
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Post by robby on Apr 22, 2013 9:06:27 GMT
Good to see your engineering skills have not gone to waste, cannot understand why they would solder the wire on top of the screw & not use a spade end soldered to the wire with a grip washer like you say. Cost I sent robby a video while we 'playing' the other day, it shows how to do a simple test for continuity through the unit. I'll re-do it with better lighting today for the non-techy guys. Post the link here as well mate Moggy
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Moggy
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Post by Moggy on Apr 22, 2013 9:07:16 GMT
Just edited my post with it in
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robby
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Post by robby on Apr 22, 2013 9:20:23 GMT
A good test for resistance through all of the tube joints is to put your meter on ohms, lowest range (usually 200) and see what you get from the very bottom of the Vamo (battery cap) and the top cap. If you short out the leads first and note the reading you get (which will be about .5 of an ohm). Then test the vamo as described. It is difficult to get a consistent reading, but persevere. There should be very little difference. My leads read .5 ohms shorted out and on the Vamo it reads betwwen .5 and .6 of an ohm. So that is a test for the tube. Unfortunately, it doesnt test the final connection between the tube and the vamo control board. The only way to test that is to get the top cap off the Vamo.
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Brambles
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Post by Brambles on Apr 22, 2013 10:02:07 GMT
If the vamo is working, you could set to RMS volts, then measure the volts between connector center pin and top cap. Subtract measured value from Vamo rms volts setting and you have the approximate volt drop between cap and board.
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robby
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Post by robby on Apr 22, 2013 10:07:32 GMT
If the vamo is working, you could set to RMS volts, then measure the volts between connector center pin and top cap. Subtract measured value from Vamo rms volts setting and you have the approximate volt drop between cap and board. My head hurts
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Brambles
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Post by Brambles on Apr 22, 2013 10:34:05 GMT
If the vamo is working, you could set to RMS volts, then measure the volts between connector center pin and top cap. Subtract measured value from Vamo rms volts setting and you have the approximate volt drop between cap and board. My head hurts Try lowering your Nic levels.
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Jockyspants
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Post by Jockyspants on Apr 22, 2013 20:34:21 GMT
If the vamo is working, you could set to RMS volts, then measure the volts between connector center pin and top cap. Subtract measured value from Vamo rms volts setting and you have the approximate volt drop between cap and board. My head hurts Why not try some online retail therapy Robby? I've heard great things about that
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robby
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Post by robby on Apr 22, 2013 21:59:43 GMT
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Jockyspants
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Post by Jockyspants on Apr 22, 2013 22:21:59 GMT
OOOOOH, that looks nice Robby, traditional with contemporary lines and lovely golden colour. Where do you put the baccy? Does this just take carto's do you think or would you be able to fit a vivi nova in there without the need for duct tape. Quite fancy a pipe to go with ma sporran
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robby
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Post by robby on Apr 22, 2013 22:26:08 GMT
There`s a tank it it mate, and a spare by the look of it
Jockyspants
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womble
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Post by womble on Apr 22, 2013 22:39:53 GMT
A good test for resistance through all of the tube joints is to put your meter on ohms, lowest range (usually 200) and see what you get from the very bottom of the Vamo (battery cap) and the top cap. If you short out the leads first and note the reading you get (which will be about .5 of an ohm). Then test the vamo as described. It is difficult to get a consistent reading, but persevere. There should be very little difference. My leads read .5 ohms shorted out and on the Vamo it reads betwwen .5 and .6 of an ohm. So that is a test for the tube. Unfortunately, it doesnt test the final connection between the tube and the vamo control board. The only way to test that is to get the top cap off the Vamo. I was shocked the other day to meet a vaper at a meet and I think he had 2 mods, one was a Vamo and I forget the other, but both got really warm/hot and he thought it was normal! I explained it wasn't, but didn't understand at the time, it was probably the glue fixing the bits together that was the problem. Next time I know, so thanks Robby.
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robby
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Post by robby on Apr 22, 2013 22:49:20 GMT
A good test for resistance through all of the tube joints is to put your meter on ohms, lowest range (usually 200) and see what you get from the very bottom of the Vamo (battery cap) and the top cap. If you short out the leads first and note the reading you get (which will be about .5 of an ohm). Then test the vamo as described. It is difficult to get a consistent reading, but persevere. There should be very little difference. My leads read .5 ohms shorted out and on the Vamo it reads betwwen .5 and .6 of an ohm. So that is a test for the tube. Unfortunately, it doesnt test the final connection between the tube and the vamo control board. The only way to test that is to get the top cap off the Vamo. I was shocked the other day to meet a vaper at a meet and I think he had 2 mods, one was a Vamo and I forget the other, but both got really warm/hot and he thought it was normal! I explained it wasn't, but didn't understand at the time, it was probably the glue fixing the bits together that was the problem. Next time I know, so thanks Robby. The current path for the negative side of the battery has so many hurdles to jump even without that strange soldered connection inside. It was fun finding out though, thanks womble
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Brambles
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Post by Brambles on Apr 23, 2013 0:54:10 GMT
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