Which ones for the mini protank???

[toots]

If I was to buy some pre-made wires & wicks from fasttech for the kanger mini protank heads which ones would I need, there's loads of different ones to choose from 

My search brought up this page: www.fasttech.com/search?wick

[OneDay]

Personally I use the single strand wicks at 1.8 ohms in Protanks (10th ones down on your link page)

These

[Clivia]

toots - I was recommended this
32 kanthal is the wire 0.2 metric size and silica wick 3mm from here www.vape-atomizer-mesh.com/index.html

this is the wire www.vape-atomizer-mesh.com/products/kanthal-A1-heat-resistance-wire-020mm-20metre-2374.html

and this is the wick
www.vape-atomizer-mesh.com/products/3mm--3000-Micron-or-8.5-AWG--Silica-Wire---High-Temperature-Glass-Fibre---1-Metre-2412.html

[sammy13]

Mar 2, 2014 15:16:17 GMT OneDay said:

Personally I use the single strand wicks at 1.8 ohms in Protanks (10th ones down on your link page)

These

At the risk of sound totally stupid , if you were to buy these, what then would you need to do with them to get your old coil head to work?

[toots]

Mar 2, 2014 15:16:17 GMT OneDay said:

Personally I use the single strand wicks at 1.8 ohms in Protanks (10th ones down on your link page)

These

Cheers, just put them into my wishlist ready for my next order

Now just got to buy some pliers so I can get the flippin things apart

[toots]

Mar 2, 2014 15:21:36 GMT Clivia said:

toots - I was recommended this
32 kanthal is the wire 0.2 metric size and silica wick 3mm from here www.vape-atomizer-mesh.com/index.html

this is the wire www.vape-atomizer-mesh.com/products/kanthal-A1-heat-resistance-wire-020mm-20metre-2374.html

and this is the wick
www.vape-atomizer-mesh.com/products/3mm--3000-Micron-or-8.5-AWG--Silica-Wire---High-Temperature-Glass-Fibre---1-Metre-2412.html

Thanks Clivia but I prefer an easier life so the pre-made ones are ideal for me, and still work out one hell of a lot cheaper than keep on buying the actual heads.

[toots]

Mar 2, 2014 15:33:48 GMT sammy13 said:

Mar 2, 2014 15:16:17 GMT OneDay said:

Personally I use the single strand wicks at 1.8 ohms in Protanks (10th ones down on your link page)

These

At the risk of sound totally stupid , if you were to buy these, what then would you need to do with them to get your old coil head to work?

You pull the coil head apart, take out the gunged up wick and replace with a new one, then put the coil head back together again. I pulled one apart the other week for the first time to see how it all went together.

[griffon10]

sammy as toots said. its fiddly but easy when you get the hang of it especially with pre made coils.

[sammy13]

Mar 2, 2014 15:40:44 GMT toots said:

Mar 2, 2014 15:33:48 GMT sammy13 said:

At the risk of sound totally stupid , if you were to buy these, what then would you need to do with them to get your old coil head to work?

You pull the coil head apart, take out the gunged up wick and replace with a new one, then put the coil head back together again. I pulled one apart the other week for the first time to see how it all went together.

Thankyou - so just to be clear lol, as I have never even taken one apart -

I would be following this video starting from 15 mins 37 ??
No need to check ohms, volts, electrics nothing like that, just one out one in?

It would help if I added the video -

[Perpetua]

Here's a Protank specific recoiling video sammy13, using separate wick/wire . . . but you can substitute a ready coil if you'd rather.

It would be useful to have something to check your ohms with really, incase there's a short or some such.

[djs]

I could be tempted to buy pre-made wick and wire for Kanger clearos.

My problem isn't a lack of skill or luck, but simply the trouble I have seeing stuff. It's bad. I can't see anything with my glasses on (close up) and once they are off....there's no hope.

I have varifocal glasses too.

My Taifun takes ages to do. Glasses on, glasses off...on/off...on/off.

[sammy13]

Looking at this picture -
www.fasttech.com/products/0/10007181/1591806-pre-made-wires-and-wicks-for-atomizer-50-pack
I'm guessing the wire that you can see floating off to each end is the spare bit that you have to pull through the bottom.
This seems to be the only tricky bit, --- notice I said seems to be lol.

I don't have any way of testing ohms yet, but if they sell it as 1.8 , then it should be 1.8 - no??
Maybe get one somewhere around 2, and then if it is a bit lower or higher than it should be it will still be ok?
I just tried to get one to bits the bottom bit came off, but the post wont come out at all, that's pliers on the shopping list, dragged the toolbox out and mine are huge

[Perpetua]

Mar 2, 2014 18:11:53 GMT sammy13 said:

I don't have any way of testing ohms yet, but if they sell it as 1.8 , then it should be 1.8 - no??
Maybe get one somewhere around 2, and then if it is a bit lower or higher than it should be it will still be ok?
I just tried to get one to bits the bottom bit came off, but the post wont come out at all, that's pliers on the shopping list, dragged the toolbox out and mine are huge

Possibly, but not a guaranteed resistance Sammy . . . it really is worth having something to check with.

Jewellery making pliers are what I use:

www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=jewelry+making+pliers&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l3201&_nkw=jewelry+making+pliers&_sacat=0 

[OneDay]

Mar 2, 2014 18:11:53 GMT sammy13 said:

I don't have any way of testing ohms yet, but if they sell it as 1.8 , then it should be 1.8 - no?

I've found the ready wires to be pretty close to the advertised spec

[OneDay]

Mar 2, 2014 18:11:53 GMT sammy13 said:

I just tried to get one to bits the bottom bit came off, but the post wont come out at all, that's pliers on the shopping list, dragged the toolbox out and mine are huge

If you leave the head screwed onto the base while you pull the post it will be easier, it gives you more leverage