toots
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Post by toots on Mar 2, 2014 15:11:57 GMT
If I was to buy some pre-made wires & wicks from fasttech for the kanger mini protank heads which ones would I need, there's loads of different ones to choose from My search brought up this page: www.fasttech.com/search?wick
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OneDay
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Post by OneDay on Mar 2, 2014 15:16:17 GMT
Personally I use the single strand wicks at 1.8 ohms in Protanks (10th ones down on your link page) These
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Clivia
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Post by Clivia on Mar 2, 2014 15:21:36 GMT
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sammy13
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Post by sammy13 on Mar 2, 2014 15:33:48 GMT
Personally I use the single strand wicks at 1.8 ohms in Protanks (10th ones down on your link page) TheseAt the risk of sound totally stupid , if you were to buy these, what then would you need to do with them to get your old coil head to work?
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toots
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Post by toots on Mar 2, 2014 15:36:45 GMT
Personally I use the single strand wicks at 1.8 ohms in Protanks (10th ones down on your link page) TheseCheers, just put them into my wishlist ready for my next order Now just got to buy some pliers so I can get the flippin things apart
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toots
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Post by toots on Mar 2, 2014 15:38:22 GMT
Thanks Clivia but I prefer an easier life so the pre-made ones are ideal for me, and still work out one hell of a lot cheaper than keep on buying the actual heads.
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toots
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Post by toots on Mar 2, 2014 15:40:44 GMT
Personally I use the single strand wicks at 1.8 ohms in Protanks (10th ones down on your link page) TheseAt the risk of sound totally stupid , if you were to buy these, what then would you need to do with them to get your old coil head to work? You pull the coil head apart, take out the gunged up wick and replace with a new one, then put the coil head back together again. I pulled one apart the other week for the first time to see how it all went together.
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griffon10
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Post by griffon10 on Mar 2, 2014 16:19:04 GMT
sammy as toots said. its fiddly but easy when you get the hang of it especially with pre made coils.
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sammy13
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Post by sammy13 on Mar 2, 2014 17:21:57 GMT
At the risk of sound totally stupid , if you were to buy these, what then would you need to do with them to get your old coil head to work? You pull the coil head apart, take out the gunged up wick and replace with a new one, then put the coil head back together again. I pulled one apart the other week for the first time to see how it all went together. Thankyou - so just to be clear lol, as I have never even taken one apart - I would be following this video starting from 15 mins 37 ?? No need to check ohms, volts, electrics nothing like that, just one out one in? It would help if I added the video -
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Post by Perpetua on Mar 2, 2014 17:28:35 GMT
Here's a Protank specific recoiling video sammy13, using separate wick/wire . . . but you can substitute a ready coil if you'd rather. It would be useful to have something to check your ohms with really, incase there's a short or some such.
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djs
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Post by djs on Mar 2, 2014 18:04:14 GMT
I could be tempted to buy pre-made wick and wire for Kanger clearos.
My problem isn't a lack of skill or luck, but simply the trouble I have seeing stuff. It's bad. I can't see anything with my glasses on (close up) and once they are off....there's no hope.
I have varifocal glasses too.
My Taifun takes ages to do. Glasses on, glasses off...on/off...on/off.
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sammy13
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Post by sammy13 on Mar 2, 2014 18:11:53 GMT
Looking at this picture - www.fasttech.com/products/0/10007181/1591806-pre-made-wires-and-wicks-for-atomizer-50-packI'm guessing the wire that you can see floating off to each end is the spare bit that you have to pull through the bottom. This seems to be the only tricky bit, --- notice I said seems to be lol. I don't have any way of testing ohms yet, but if they sell it as 1.8 , then it should be 1.8 - no?? Maybe get one somewhere around 2, and then if it is a bit lower or higher than it should be it will still be ok? I just tried to get one to bits the bottom bit came off, but the post wont come out at all, that's pliers on the shopping list, dragged the toolbox out and mine are huge
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Post by Perpetua on Mar 2, 2014 21:27:49 GMT
I don't have any way of testing ohms yet, but if they sell it as 1.8 , then it should be 1.8 - no?? Maybe get one somewhere around 2, and then if it is a bit lower or higher than it should be it will still be ok? I just tried to get one to bits the bottom bit came off, but the post wont come out at all, that's pliers on the shopping list, dragged the toolbox out and mine are huge Possibly, but not a guaranteed resistance Sammy . . . it really is worth having something to check with. Jewellery making pliers are what I use: www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=jewelry+making+pliers&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l3201&_nkw=jewelry+making+pliers&_sacat=0
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OneDay
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Post by OneDay on Mar 2, 2014 21:43:34 GMT
I don't have any way of testing ohms yet, but if they sell it as 1.8 , then it should be 1.8 - no? I've found the ready wires to be pretty close to the advertised spec
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OneDay
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Post by OneDay on Mar 2, 2014 21:49:51 GMT
I just tried to get one to bits the bottom bit came off, but the post wont come out at all, that's pliers on the shopping list, dragged the toolbox out and mine are huge If you leave the head screwed onto the base while you pull the post it will be easier, it gives you more leverage
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