Get Off My Cloud
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Post by Get Off My Cloud on Feb 23, 2015 12:33:35 GMT
Where did you get your clone from? I've had 2 from 3fvape the temp sensing switched off on both just fine. The first one went skitzo in temp mode and i fried the chip i've had @windows replace it with an evolv chip. But in Kanthal regular mode it worked fine, only went nuts when i tried a Nickel build on it, the temp display would only show 110f and the temp control message wouldn't kick in no matter how many watts i pumped into it or for how long. Are you locking the device first before holding the up and down buttons together? I wouldn't trust the temp sensing on these clone chips but the regular mode works fine. Got a couple more on order from Cigabuy will see if they have the same chip. I dont suppose you have a pic of that board do you Get Off My Cloud? I have a cigabuy chip here @windows might still have the fried chip i didn't take any photos of it and it's kinda difficult to get a proper photo of the chip while still in the box, i only have a phone camera.
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Bobsbeer
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Post by Bobsbeer on Feb 23, 2015 12:34:33 GMT
I haven't tried locking it first Get Off My Cloud. Only tried it when unlocked. I'll try that way. Yes it worked. I can change temperature. Thanks for that.
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alanjana
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Post by alanjana on Feb 23, 2015 12:38:29 GMT
Just checked the angelfire mods facebook discusion on this and this is the latest post from them
Angelfiremods Ltd Yeah well we have two devices at the moment that run temp control on Kanthal, you probably need to experience it to see and it is obviously not using resistance to measure heat or it is using a different type of algorithm. It works by using the temperature protection function and will not allow the wattage to push the temp beyond the set temperature.. all I can tell you is it works and very well
Alan
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Bobsbeer
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Post by Bobsbeer on Feb 23, 2015 12:39:25 GMT
Forgot to add. I got it from Cigabuy. Something is happening. I set the temp to 200f and ramped up the watts to 19. The coil is .67 ohms, kanthal, and it very quickly locked out due to high temp. I reduced the watts to 7, (lowest it will go), and it fires up no problem. Although I can't see the temp reading, it shows volts now in the window. It only shows the volts during firing, and it only showed the temp in the previous mode while firing. Why can't these people write some decent instructions? Then we mightd understand what is going on.
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robby
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Post by robby on Feb 23, 2015 12:44:34 GMT
Forgot to add. I got it from Cigabuy. Something is happening. I set the temp to 200f and ramped up the watts to 19. The coil is .67 ohms, kanthal, and it very quickly locked out due to high temp. I reduced the watts to 7, (lowest it will go), and it fires up no problem. Although I can't see the temp reading, it shows volts now in the window. It only shows the volts during firing, and it only showed the temp in the previous mode while firing. Why can't these people write some decent instructions? Then we mightd understand what is going on. Really? must check out their site again
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Get Off My Cloud
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Post by Get Off My Cloud on Feb 23, 2015 12:44:51 GMT
Forgot to add. I got it from Cigabuy. Something is happening. I set the temp to 200f and ramped up the watts to 19. The coil is .67 ohms, kanthal, and it very quickly locked out due to high temp. I reduced the watts to 7, (lowest it will go), and it fires up no problem. Although I can't see the temp reading, it shows volts now in the window. It only shows the volts during firing, and it only showed the temp in the previous mode while firing. Why can't these people write some decent instructions? Then we mightd understand what is going on. It shouldn't be showing volts mate, if i were you i'd just turn off temp sensing and use a regular kanthal build. Like i said mine went all nutso in temp mode and i ended up with a burnt out chip. 0.67ohm is high for a nickel build are you using kanthal in temp mode? You should only use nickel somewhere between 0.1ohm and 0.2ohm builds.
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richo71
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Post by richo71 on Feb 23, 2015 12:45:42 GMT
Just done a quick show and tell guys, please tell me what y think you knowledgeable people,
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Bobsbeer
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Post by Bobsbeer on Feb 23, 2015 12:48:59 GMT
Forgot to add. I got it from Cigabuy. Something is happening. I set the temp to 200f and ramped up the watts to 19. The coil is .67 ohms, kanthal, and it very quickly locked out due to high temp. I reduced the watts to 7, (lowest it will go), and it fires up no problem. Although I can't see the temp reading, it shows volts now in the window. It only shows the volts during firing, and it only showed the temp in the previous mode while firing. Why can't these people write some decent instructions? Then we mightd understand what is going on. It shouldn't be showing volts mate, if i were you i'd just turn off temp sensing and use a regular kanthal build. Like i said mine went all nutso in temp mode and i ended up with a burnt out chip. 0.67ohm is high for a nickel build are you using kanthal in temp mode? You should only use nickel somewhere between 0.1ohm and 0.2ohm builds. It's a kanthal coil I made, (rather badly), as I don't have any nickel wire till the boat comes in. But now I have it in Temp mode how do I get back out of it again? When I lock the mod and press up/down it just asks me to change temp.
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richo71
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Post by richo71 on Feb 23, 2015 12:52:00 GMT
It shouldn't be showing volts mate, if i were you i'd just turn off temp sensing and use a regular kanthal build. Like i said mine went all nutso in temp mode and i ended up with a burnt out chip. 0.67ohm is high for a nickel build are you using kanthal in temp mode? You should only use nickel somewhere between 0.1ohm and 0.2ohm builds. It's a kanthal coil I made, (rather badly), as I don't have any nickel wire till the boat comes in. But now I have it in Temp mode how do I get back out of it again? When I lock the mod and press up/down it just asks me to change temp. You should be able to scroll past 600f to OFF to switch temp off like on the Vaporflask clone
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Bobsbeer
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Post by Bobsbeer on Feb 23, 2015 12:53:40 GMT
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Get Off My Cloud
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Post by Get Off My Cloud on Feb 23, 2015 12:54:58 GMT
It shouldn't be showing volts mate, if i were you i'd just turn off temp sensing and use a regular kanthal build. Like i said mine went all nutso in temp mode and i ended up with a burnt out chip. 0.67ohm is high for a nickel build are you using kanthal in temp mode? You should only use nickel somewhere between 0.1ohm and 0.2ohm builds. It's a kanthal coil I made, (rather badly), as I don't have any nickel wire till the boat comes in. But now I have it in Temp mode how do I get back out of it again? When I lock the mod and press up/down it just asks me to change temp. You can't use kanthal in temp mode. Lock the device. Hold the up and down button to go into temp settings. Take it up to 600 Press up once more to turn off. Hit the fire button once to enter back into normal mode.
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Bobsbeer
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Post by Bobsbeer on Feb 23, 2015 12:56:47 GMT
It must have been in temp mode all along. Now switched off and it's showing volts in the window.
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Get Off My Cloud
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Post by Get Off My Cloud on Feb 23, 2015 12:59:00 GMT
It must have been in temp mode all along. Now switched off and it's showing volts in the window. Yeah for some reason they come with temp sensing switched on by default from the factory.
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robby
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Post by robby on Feb 23, 2015 12:59:27 GMT
Just done a quick show and tell guys, please tell me what y think you knowledgeable people, I dont think you are getting anywhere near 80 watts on the last bit. I`b be surprised if that coil could give you that much. On the DNA40 vaporflask, the hit is immediate ish, because the coil resistance is low, which is as it should be. On the M80, it seems to be working in reverse, it seems to be controlling it before control is necessary
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richo71
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Post by richo71 on Feb 23, 2015 13:04:13 GMT
Just done a quick show and tell guys, please tell me what y think you knowledgeable people, I dont think you are getting anywhere near 80 watts on the last bit. I`b be surprised if that coil could give you that much. On the DNA40 vaporflask, the hit is immediate ish, because the coil resistance is low, which is as it should be. On the M80, it seems to be working in reverse, it seems to be controlling it before control is necessary I thought that too, weird
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