was thinking of getting one if these but which 1

[igual]

Kayfun v4
www.gearbest.com/electronic-cigarettes/pp_127081.html
www.gearbest.com/electronic-cigarettes/pp_142026.html

Have got kayfun v2 and like them are these worth a punt anyone?

[Brambles]

The cheaper one appears to have a copper screw for the 510 centre connection. The other is ... ermm.. plated/ stainless steel/ silvery!!!
Are the Chinese into tricks like listing the same product twice, one with a higher price just because they can and some buyers will pay more thinking it must be better?
It looks like they have used the same generic set of pictures or pictures of same item for both listings so the pictures do not help.
Reading answers to questions bottom of the listed items, it appears the more expensive one is an authorised manufacturer and the cheaper on is from an unknown factory..gearbest wont say who, so have to assume it is a poorer quality clone rather than quality clone.

Buy both and then you can do a review on which one is better!!!! Sods law is the cheaper one is better, but I would go for the more expensive one.
I am of no help what so ever, am I!

[monty]

I have the Infinite clone. The flavour is excellent but that's the only good thing.
Shortcomings:-

• It relies on a spring to carry the current and the contact is not 100%. The result is the Ohms reading fluctuates sometimes. eg a 1.2 Ohm coil is read as 1.9 Ohms when you press the fire button, your mod sets the voltage to give your desired Wattage and the wick gets burnt. Happens on mine at least once a tankful. I am trying VV mode, so far OK
• removing the tank to get at the deck can require Herculean strength
• the juice flow should go from fully closed to fully open. I can still vape with mine fully closed and consequentially it leaks when filling. Even with the original people are saying the juice control is either open or closed... not adjustable.
• I use mainly gennies and so I'm used to tight draws but I have the air control fully open all the time. So basically I have no choice when it comes to either juice or air control
• Faffage rating:- between Neptune and Pluto although wicking and coiling is easy all the screwing and unscrewing is pretty awful

From what I have read these are design faults and even the original suffers from them. I am still persevering with mine because the flavour is so good and for that reason I wouldn't say don't get one.

[lisburnvapes]

I have both the Kfl+ and the V4, tbh I prefer the kfl, too much ballsing about with the V4, and have to agree with the fact that the liquid control is very awkward , there's very little grip to get a good turn at it, I resort to using a jewellers screw driver in one of the air holes to get some torc , I'd either stick to what you have or get a lemo or subtank

[arron]

i also have the v4 and never use it, way too much faffing around...much prefer the older gen kayfuns

[robby]

Some of the K4s have a shorter 510 connection, no idea why, but mine wont fire on everything I have.

[Mrsmac]

Sorry, I have to agree with the previous posters, I got mine from ft and on paper it seemed like a good idea but mine is now in the back of my vape box due to too much faff and leakage causing oring detective work!

Much prefer my kfl+v1 and v2, no you can't get to the build deck without emptying but that's a trade off I'm prepared to sacrifice for a faff free vape...o ring deterioration aside lol

[letsavit]

Agree too....used my Kayfun 4 once, where as the 2 is one of my favourite tanks.

[igual]

Cheers peeps will wait and go for lemo 2 or anouther kfl

[tomj777]

Well, I'm going against the grain here...
I really like the two clones I have (I'd love the real thing but price at the moment is a no).

Juice control is binary - there was hope during the pre release speculation that it was variable but...
Removing the tank part is either easy-ish or very very very break it if you're unlucky hard - from memory juice control has to be closed to remove the tank (although it is possible with, as monty says, with herculean strength). Not sure why you're not able to close it completely, unless when you reassembled it after the initial de-oil, you didn't tighten the UC Counterscrew (#9) enough (or it's drifted loose ) - mind you, I'm not sure if that would explain the juice control not closing fully so strike that up to a `just a thought generated without thinking it through`

That spring... ugh... agreed. It's not quite up to the job... Either pick one of the new ones up from C9V (haven't had the courage to do that given I don't have the real thing) or get a scrap of (R6?) coax, strip it and make your own... (this is on my too do list)

I also just stumbled across this video whilst looking for a `make a copper spring` video which purports to elimnate the need for a spring using standard KF4 parts.... Haven't watched it yet.

The other thing to check out with the jumpy resistance deal (other than the Steam Tuners fix) is to keep checking that there's not condensation (or to a lesser extent) juice ingress into the chamber where the spring resides.

I believe that replacing o'ring #16 with a 1.5mm one (not sure if it should be 15mm or 16mm ID) helps with leaks. I haven't tried this yet.

But, it's got so many parts making up the four modules that I get why folks find it overly complicated. Mine have become pretty much my every day tanks.

[letsavit]

That's kinda the point, you need to read an essay to set it up then it vapes just like a Kayfun lite...

[tomj777]

Apr 14, 2015 17:00:24 GMT letsavit said:

That's kinda the point, you need to read an essay to set it up then it vapes just like a Kayfun lite...

One of the few instances where form trumps function for me (you can tell I'm still not so into aesthetics)... So I guess I agree, sort of... More like a KFL plus added geek appeal or summat.

[*-SARIN-*]

Lemo V2 or the Youde Goblin (just over £12 delivered using the code: goblin)

[monty]

Thanks for your input Tom, some things for me to try. I never managed to unscrew counter screw 9 (it was touch and go that I would be able to put it back together properly as it was). I have an idea for the spring :- find a way to hold it in place and melt some silver wire to provide a better contact. the silver shouldn't solder to the SS. And then do the same at the other end of the spring. A jet lighter is hot enough to melt silver.

[tomj777]

Silver wire is a great idea.
The counternut will come undone... I found I didn't have a screw driver to hand that would span the nut and not have an anvil shaped side of the head but using a flat headed screw driver (largest of my cheap precision set used for coiling against one side of the slot I could turn it (same to do it up). Took me an age to work that out and is kind of infuriating to put back on (and then just goes in just fine). The derlin cup water didn't come out of its own accord for me but a gentle prod from the back is easy enough.