CLTv2+ first (non-flaming) build, lol ... spitting v hot

[kittyvape]

Jul 7, 2015 22:04:29 GMT xs2man said:

I don't know about the Dremel, I stick a L-shaped Allen key in the drill chuck to hook the loops round, pinching the other end with pliers, and full speed it.

And to be honest, the only reason I did that quad twisted build was because I had the 0.23mm kicking about. The only reason I had that kicking about is because I bought it when I first started out, and didn't realise how high a resistance it would give me. I would never buy it usually, and the only way it's usable is in builds such as this, unless you want 2+ ohm coils.

That sounds a good way to twist, xs2man. Would never have thought of the allen key; perfect. Great you found a use for the wire. With all the new tanks and mods coming out, every scrap of wire's going to get used up at some point. I'm finding with all the different tanks now, rather than just one or two at the start, I've needed to get a notebook today, lol, to keep track of what wire/build etc per tank. 

[xs2man]

Ha ha. Good plan. I just bang whatever I'm building in whatever is in front of me at the time. I rarely set-off with a plan.

The only reason I did these claptons recently is because I was watching some videos of fused claptons, and thought I might five one of them a try. Usually I just do a simple twisted set-up, or a standard microcoil, depending on how I'm feeling.

But the other night I was bored, so twisted up a load of wire, just for the craic.

[hijack]

Think a Dremel may be a bit too fast for wire twisting, better off with a drill that has speed control of a screwdriver/drill speeds.#
Good first efforts kittyvape you may find this tip handy.

You know when you unwind the wire off the spool and it sits on table all wrapped around and around in a mess and cant really be straighten with fingers?

Take one end and grip it in the center of the 'chuck' on the drill and grip the other end with pliers, hold taught'ish and fire up the drill slowly and build a little more speed keeping the wire taught and stop after about 5-6 seconds on a 4ft piece of wire.

When you release the tension you will have big piece of wire that is as straight as a train-track.
Helps get all wire same length and neat and evenly tensioned and parallel  before twisting together.

What you need to avoid is indicated in pic below

The Offending twist is caused by the 3 wires looking like the lines I have draw in. every time the wire does this, you get that.
More noticeable as it gets a tighter twist but there regardless of how tight the twist is and will cause a hot or cold spot.
Keep it up Kitty.


One from the TETLEY collection

[kittyvape]

Jul 8, 2015 21:34:41 GMT xs2man said:

Ha ha. Good plan. I just bang whatever I'm building in whatever is in front of me at the time. I rarely set-off with a plan.

The only reason I did these claptons recently is because I was watching some videos of fused claptons, and thought I might five one of them a try. Usually I just do a simple twisted set-up, or a standard microcoil, depending on how I'm feeling.

But the other night I was bored, so twisted up a load of wire, just for the craic.

lol haha, and that's how great inventions were made! Fun to just try stuff. I find I'm settling to standard microcoil or twisted 28. Good to have core devices/tanks/builds in order first. Can be quite intense, working on a new tank, fixing an issue, learning a build, lol ... feel great when achieve it. 

[kittyvape]

Jul 9, 2015 0:14:56 GMT hijack said:

Think a Dremel may be a bit too fast for wire twisting, better off with a drill that has speed control of a screwdriver/drill speeds.#
Good first efforts kittyvape you may find this tip handy.

You know when you unwind the wire off the spool and it sits on table all wrapped around and around in a mess and cant really be straighten with fingers?

Take one end and grip it in the center of the 'chuck' on the drill and grip the other end with pliers, hold taught'ish and fire up the drill slowly and build a little more speed keeping the wire taught and stop after about 5-6 seconds on a 4ft piece of wire.

When you release the tension you will have big piece of wire that is as straight as a train-track.
Helps get all wire same length and neat and evenly tensioned and parallel  before twisting together.

What you need to avoid is indicated in pic below

The Offending twist is caused by the 3 wires looking like the lines I have draw in. every time the wire does this, you get that.
More noticeable as it gets a tighter twist but there regardless of how tight the twist is and will cause a hot or cold spot.
Keep it up Kitty.


One from the TETLEY collection

Thanks hijack   Holding back about any drill purchase at the moment, to be sure of the right one. Appreciate advice. Definitely needs to be variable speed, or I'd have a catastrophe I think, lol. Great way of straightening wire, for sure. Don't want any of that bumpy stuff. Your photos are brilliant; so clear and easy to understand, plus the coil in the last one is a work of art. Really nice. Inspiring! 

[hijack]

They are kinda expensive kittyvape for a decent cordless. If all you need it for is doing wire and possibly if you want too zip a few screws into wood or small holes in walls for screws then something under £30 will be fine. With drill bit used for metal you can re-drill air-holes if too small and you can also use grinding bits to clean burr's even though it is clumsier then a dremel for this. Also you can use polishing wheel bits in them for getting a mirror finish or with a bit of 800-1200 pre-soaked wet-n-dry you can refinish atty's that you consider a bit rough, by spinning the atty on the drill(attach in chuck by using cheap 510 extension so you dont knacker the atty threads.
But i know you can get those cheap dremel type sets with about 150 pieces for about £15, with a 35,000 rpm max setting just dont think the min rpm will be suitable for doing the wire thing.

This looks pretty good on sale at screwfix High rated by people who use a trade outlet so cant be rubbish. To me it good quality and the reviews(31) cant praise it enough with 100% recomened score).
I would rather have the one above over this thing which is the best of the cheapy's on Ebay 
You know I think I am Giong to get that titan as my MacAllister is 6 years old has 1 knackered battery and 1 that will only work well for 1 hour, and that titan looks the biz for my needs.

The Ni-Cd batteries with that are pretty good for power tools and give a consistent amount of voltage and power at high amps during the whole discharge time.(not just at start like Li-ion)
Can suffer Memory effect but only if constantly recharged before full discharge has occurred, so just use battery until it runs out.

NiCad batteries are the only battery chemistry that benefit from completely discharging before recharging. - See more at: www.batterystuff.com/kb/articles/battery-articles/what-the-heck-is-a-nicd-battery.html#sthash.koiIsxrU.dpuf

We are now talking power tools not Mods to anyone who thinks I am recommending Ni-Cd for Mods

[kittyvape]

Jul 9, 2015 16:29:34 GMT hijack said:

They are kinda expensive kittyvape for a decent cordless. If all you need it for is doing wire and possibly if you want too zip a few screws into wood or small holes in walls for screws then something under £30 will be fine. With drill bit used for metal you can re-drill air-holes if too small and you can also use grinding bits to clean burr's even though it is clumsier then a dremel for this. Also you can use polishing wheel bits in them for getting a mirror finish or with a bit of 800-1200 pre-soaked wet-n-dry you can refinish atty's that you consider a bit rough, by spinning the atty on the drill(attach in chuck by using cheap 510 extension so you dont knacker the atty threads.
But i know you can get those cheap dremel type sets with about 150 pieces for about £15, with a 35,000 rpm max setting just dont think the min rpm will be suitable for doing the wire thing.

This looks pretty good on sale at screwfix High rated by people who use a trade outlet so cant be rubbish. To me it good quality and the reviews(31) cant praise it enough with 100% recomened score).
I would rather have the one above over this thing which is the best of the cheapy's on Ebay 
You know I think I am Giong to get that titan as my MacAllister is 6 years old has 1 knackered battery and 1 that will only work well for 1 hour, and that titan looks the biz for my needs.

The Ni-Cd batteries with that are pretty good for power tools and give a consistent amount of voltage and power at high amps during the whole discharge time.(not just at start like Li-ion)
Can suffer Memory effect but only if constantly recharged before full discharge has occurred, so just use battery until it runs out.

NiCad batteries are the only battery chemistry that benefit from completely discharging before recharging. - See more at: www.batterystuff.com/kb/articles/battery-articles/what-the-heck-is-a-nicd-battery.html#sthash.koiIsxrU.dpuf

We are now talking power tools not Mods to anyone who thinks I am recommending Ni-Cd for Mods

Thanks hijack   Appreciate advice and links. You linked to a great drill, but I just daren't use any drill without variable speed for twisting wire etc. Found this: link which gets a lot of good reviews. Also, I find my hands are getting too sore sometimes when I'm sorting out tanks/wire, so I'm realising a smaller drill will help with that too. I already have a small cordless for occasional odd jobs, link but it hasn't got variable speed and is still quite heavy. Been a godsend though, lol. 

Hadn't thought about polishing tanks; cool, and great idea about getting yourself one of the Titans. Sounds like you're due a new drill, for sure! Thanks for explaining about Ni-Cd's too; I hadn't realised the battery in the little Argos drill is that. Great to know more about them, and, more by accident than design, lol, to know letting the battery entirely run out was best. Couldn't have fixed the K4 back together without using a screwdriver tip with the drill, and this vid: link. 

[hijack]

kittyvape The link to the dremel type tool does say variable speed 10,000 rpm-35,000 rpm, so its going to start at 10,000rmp way way too fast for most things execpt cutting, grinding, and polishing.
You need something that is 0-xxx my drill is 0-600 The titan is 2 speed vairiable and as it is a driver/drill should start from 0 speed as you cant use as a driver if it kick off at even 100 rpm. I wouldn't get a drill that didnt start from 0 myself that Titan ticks all the boxes.
I would think again...really.
Someone asked if it can be used as a screwdriver, and the answer was yes so it must be a 0-xxx speed

Dont want to sound like I am pushing something on to you, as I am not, but the dremel is not going to do what you want it to do.

Dont be caught out think variable speed means it will start at 0 rpm and gradually increase as you squeeze. For the dremel is a cutter and you will get 10,000 rmp 20,000rpm and 35,000 rpm to choose from and that will be it.

Tagged again as I have edited the above kittyvape

[kittyvape]

Jul 10, 2015 8:12:38 GMT hijack said:

kittyvape The link to the dremel type tool does say variable speed 10,000 rpm-35,000 rpm, so its going to start at 10,000rmp way way too fast for most things execpt cutting, grinding, and polishing.
You need something that is 0-xxx my drill is 0-600 The titan is 2 speed vairiable and as it is a driver/drill should start from 0 speed as you cant use as a driver if it kick off at even 100 rpm. I wouldn't get a drill that didnt start from 0 myself that Titan ticks all the boxes.
I would think again...really.
Someone asked if it can be used as a screwdriver, and the answer was yes so it must be a 0-xxx speed

Dont want to sound like I am pushing something on to you, as I am not, but the dremel is not going to do what you want it to do.

Dont be caught out think variable speed means it will start at 0 rpm and gradually increase as you squeeze. For the dremel is a cutter and you will get 10,000 rmp 20,000rpm and 35,000 rpm to choose from and that will be it.

Tagged again as I have edited the above kittyvape

Thanks for your advice; I'd not have known at all that 10,000 was still too fast and am really glad, as you've saved me from making a purchase that wouldn't have worked.  I'd presumed smaller cheaper drill = slower too, and, yes, that variable meant starting at 0. Sorry I hadn't seen the variable speed details; should never shop when sleepy, lol. Will definitely give it some further thought. Just a bit concerned about any heaviness; hands get a bit sore, plus would like to work on a smaller scale. It's a shame the little 12v Argos drill didn't have the 0-600 function, as, when I'm looking up drills based on starting at 0, the first one that came up was 12v! But have learnt what torque is, lol, which is cool. 

[kittyvape]

Managed to find this one: Terratek 18 Volt Cordless Power DIY Combi Drill Driver with 120pcs Accessory Kit which does 0-550 rpm. Would need extra accessories to sand etc though.  Down to money really, as this drill makes twisting wire easier, but the little rotary tools are great for everything else!

[hijack]

Looks Ideal kittyvape and youll get the extra's.
Like I have been doing, you will be able to use it for pretty much everything except cutting mine being 0-600.
I already have ordered the one from screwfix to replace mine. As long they are driver/drill they will start at 0 and work up.

[kittyvape]

Jul 10, 2015 10:36:22 GMT hijack said:

Looks Ideal kittyvape and youll get the extra's.
Like I have been doing, you will be able to use it for pretty much everything except cutting mine being 0-600.
I already have ordered the one from screwfix to replace mine. As long they are driver/drill they will start at 0 and work up.

Great it's an ideal one, and great you've ordered yours!  Wouldn't be without the present little 12v one; makes necessary jobs easy, so now it's down to good budgeting, if I'm to invest in both this and the rotary tool, lol. 

[hijack]

Jul 10, 2015 10:49:55 GMT kittyvape said:

Its a pitty the one you already have is not driver/drill, but having the driver will mean odd jobs around the house will be even easier as well, not having to use a screwdriver which is tiring on the hands at best. 
I too was thinking about one of those cheap dremel kits, but decided the driver feature that you get with the right drill, was more important to me than a high speed cutter.

[kittyvape]

Jul 10, 2015 11:01:47 GMT hijack said:

Jul 10, 2015 10:49:55 GMT kittyvape said:

Its a pitty the one you already have is not driver/drill, but having the driver will mean odd jobs around the house will be even easier as well, not having to use a screwdriver which is tiring on the hands at best. 
I too was thinking about one of those cheap dremel kits, but decided the driver feature that you get with the right drill, was more important to me than a high speed cutter.

Yes, if only I'd known back then, but absolutely it's been amazing, and is. I just used it this morning to screw the K4 base back together; was too tough by hand, so, for a few £'s way back, was worth having. Yes, about the kits, depends if you really need one. I need to sand the goliath clone's juice control area down, as it's too stiff to move easily, plus am interested in adapting rba bases/bigger juice holes. Plus polishing the tanks will be a bonus too! You use the large drill for bigger juice holes etc?

[hijack]

Well not large, but bigger yes. I drilled out the airhole on one of my KFL v2's and center post hole. Made it a better draw. Also gave it an almost mirror finish using the 510-510 adapters in pic below and use the polishing/buffing bit to clean and polish up copper/brass/stainless steel etc.
Drill bits for metal, 2mm 2,5mm 3mm are the most useful to have (wilko's cheapies 2 pack for about £1.50 a pack)
A few of those cone shaped grinding bits would take care of any burr you find or grind out the channels bigger.
polishing disks or cloth like the one below some wet-n-dry and fine cutting compound will give whatever finish you like(with a little practice).



actually the finish on the KFL above was just done by using wet-n-dry that has been soaked in water for 10mins before use. Start with 800 grit and end up with 1200 grit. Just attach the atty on the drill with the 510-510's and its like using a lathe(one handed mind).
If you want shinier then its on to using cutting compound on a buffing wheel.
will take an hour or so to do and youll end with black hands by the end of it.