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This is how I repaired ChrisJW's EVIC head where the 510 threads had completely worn out. Caution: It involves the use of power tools, which if used incorrectly, can cause really bad injuries.

First desolder and remove the top cap. This is quite hard as they have used superglue, so fit a robust old EGO threaded attachment a bit of wiggling and cursing is mandatory. Do not overdue it, or you will crack the plastic housing the circuit board. As an option, once you see a small gap between the top cap and the plastic housing, use acetone (nail polish remover) on a earbud and work it in the gap all the way around so that the superglue softens. Then it will come off easier than trying to crack dry superglue.

Then cut off the EVIC 510 thread portion with a dremel or tool of your choice. It's brass, so cuts easily. Keep the EGO threads as is. This will allow you to use both 510 and ego threaded devices after the repair is complete.



Using a circular motion on some 400-600 grit sandpaper laid on a flat table, grind it down so you have a reasonably flat surface. The drill it out with a 8.5mm drill bit all the way through. Drill straight down or your connector will end up wonky. The material is very soft, so you can use higher speeds but go slow on the feed or the drill bit will jam.



Now you need a 510 connector available from many vendors who sell mod parts.



Using a dead blow/plastic/rubber mallet tap the connector home. If you have drilled correctly, the knurled shoulder will not be able to go through and the connector will bottom out. This is what we need. You can also use boiling water to fit the connector, but just have the means to handle the top cap when it is very very hot.



Bottom view:



You may need to slightly raise the connector so that skirted 510 devices can fit and make contact. You can do that by slighty tapping the connector out from the bottom. One you are happy, leave it. You will have a good interference fit almost along the entire height of the connector.

Solder back the wires and test the head and if all is ok, remove the top cap and use some superglue to fix the top cap back on the housing.

Hope that is of help to some folks.

I have a couple brand new 18350 efests I don't intend to use. What 18650 batteries do you have?

I am interested if you have any unused Panny CGR18650CH.

Spot on far as I know..

Can't believe they are still doing the rounds..

Add:

Baba says could be made by just about anyone. Several companies making those.

www.alibaba.com/product-gs/1350835316/2013_hottest_product_wickless_clearomizer_wholesale.html

Mamu from ECF has a very good how to if you want to build from components:

www.howder.com/dena_howto.pdf

Try what is suggested in the final section of the guide Alvo posted by holding down the power button and connecting the USB lead whilst holding down the button and keep holding it for approx 2 seconds after connecting the USB.

Your UDT-L has been repaired by the way.

Many Vapers perceive that SS gives out a cleaner taste. It is also easier to clean and lasts a very long time. Those that are worried about silica fibres also use SS.

I use both SS, SS with silica core and plain silica wicks. I find tobacco juices taste better wiith SS and fruity and sweet flavours taste better with silica, but that is just me. If my SS wick is struggling to wick to keep up with my vaping, I use a combo wick to aid wicking.

I have found that the structure of the coil is more important and no one structure is correct. It all depends on the individual as tastes vary, so there is no correct answer.