Moon
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Post by Moon on Nov 19, 2012 21:59:11 GMT
If you're mixing your own, Health Cabin do a nice one.
If anyone knows another I'd be pleased to hear it as well.
If you're talking ready-mixed please ignore this post.
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Moon
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Post by Moon on Nov 19, 2012 21:53:36 GMT
Blimey, it's confusing, isn't it, resistance lessons were much easier to get my head round.
I will be vaping between 1.5 and 2 ohms.
I'm off to buy me a hot spring for my Bolt.
Do you know whether the one they sell for the silver bullet will fit the bill, or is there a better option?
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Moon
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Post by Moon on Nov 19, 2012 21:32:12 GMT
Cheers gents.
What would cause the batteries to blow up? I'm assuming it's a short circuit, but short circuit in what?
Macca, the Sirius has a copper spring and the vendor has said that he has tried shorting the mod and it collapsed, but I'll maybe get one for the Bolt just in case.
Ultimately, are you both telling me to buy some protected batteries?
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Moon
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Post by Moon on Nov 19, 2012 21:25:27 GMT
Length and diameter of wire. Thinner wire gives higher resistance, less length required to give the same resistance than thicker wire. That about sums it I was crap at physics at school as I found it dull as. If they'd done vaping classes, they could have taught me so much more...  |
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Moon
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Post by Moon on Nov 19, 2012 21:19:13 GMT
Length and diameter of wire.
Thinner wire gives higher resistance, less length required to give the same resistance as thicker wire.
The heads you have will all use the same wire, so there will be more coils on the higher resistance heads to give the longer length.
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Moon
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Post by Moon on Nov 19, 2012 21:08:45 GMT
Can any of the battery gurus tell me this please...
I've just ordered a Sirius mod after seeing Romastino's YT review, which has a mechanical switch.
The vendor is saying to use protected batteries, but wasn't sure whether IMR would be ok, as he doesn't know much about them.
I use IMR (Senybors) in my Bolt as they were recommended by Torchy when I told him what I was using them for, although I know that has a wired switch if that makes a difference.
That's the background, so my question is under what circumstances would protected batteries be required, rather than IMR, as I'm struggling to see the difference between using the IMRs in my Bolt and using them in the Sirius, unless it is the wired/mechanical switch difference.
Alternatively, the vendor might be just covering his arse, which is fair enough of course.
Can somebody please advise this simpleton, and I'll promise not to sue you should I happen to blow my hand or face off should you recommend that the IMRs will suffice.
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Moon
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Post by Moon on Nov 18, 2012 16:57:40 GMT
There are other trusted vendors here who 'make typos'.. There are forum members who do the same. Just seems mean to me to take the p-ss out of someone on the basis of their linguistic and writing skills. And maybe deters people from attempting to post if they have difficulties with reading and writing and spelling..Judging by their posts on UKV, I'd have said that being deterred from posting would have been to their advantage in this instance. |
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Moon
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Post by Moon on Nov 18, 2012 9:49:26 GMT
I've had a mess around with wire the last couple of days and having taken on board what people have said about more coils holding more liquid, I twisted .20 Kanthal together and have seven wraps of it with 1.8 ohms, and because the wire is a lower resistance I think there's less chance of the wire between the centre post and wick glowing. Is there anything fundamental that I've not taken into account here? Depends..There is always the fact that a higher resistance coil may need nore power to heat up the coils to the point of giving you a satisfactory vape..If your mod is capable of supplying it that's definitely the way to go if it is more flavour and vapour you are after.. That is a sound principle and the similar to silica hybrid wicks..It's also the reason why tighter wicks work better (reservoir) but using 325 inside 500 you save on the more expensive #500 mesh for rolling it tighter..Ideal for peeps who were in the co-op because of the free 325 that was supplied. But all of it works upto a point after which it becomes redundant. Also capillary action is not the only thing that is at work when you draw. Cheers for the reply, and at least I know I'm working on the correct assumptions. I wanted to keep the ohms <=2 and was happy enough with 1.8, but I had a further fiddle to see if I could get 8 coils but snapped the bloody wire, so have now done 6 coils, which come in at 1.6 and think I'll stick with that as it's vaping well. Finding a use for the 325 mesh was a bonus, as I had no idea what I was going to do with it otherwise. |
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Moon
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Post by Moon on Nov 17, 2012 9:49:48 GMT
I've had a mess around with wire the last couple of days and having taken on board what people have said about more coils holding more liquid, I twisted .20 Kanthal together and have seven wraps of it with 1.8 ohms, and because the wire is a lower resistance I think there's less chance of the wire between the centre post and wick glowing.
Is there anything fundamental that I've not taken into account here?
Just as an aside and a bit off topic, I've also used a bit of advice I read on another forum and rolled 4cm of the 325 mesh we got inside 4cm of 500 mesh.
Apparently the 325 works as the reservoir, holding more juice in its bigger holes, while the 500's capillary action ensures the juice gets to the top of the wick.
Like a pig in a blanket.
It seems to be working dandily.
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Moon
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Post by Moon on Nov 14, 2012 11:43:48 GMT
Bit bloody late now. lol Maybe one day I'll be good enough at it to coil resistances to a specific level to match a juice. Right now, the resistance is whatever it turns out to be, and I adjust the volts to match. I thought of a twist, but I've got 2250mAh 18650 batteries which last forever between charges; and if you don't have to buy batteries and charger the twist isn't much cheaper. I'm still in the "that'll be about right" ohm boat with you. I'd also have got the LT, but I got the impression you weren't sure about it from your earlier posts. I reckon you've made the right choice, I'd have got the LT as well. |
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Moon
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Post by Moon on Nov 13, 2012 13:27:47 GMT
If you're making your own heads, why not make lower resistance and not worry about vv? Alternatively, if you're not sure about the LT but definitely want vv, what about a Twist? Bit bloody late now. |
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Moon
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Post by Moon on Nov 12, 2012 21:17:07 GMT
As long as you enjoyed yourself, that's the main thing. |
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Moon
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Post by Moon on Nov 12, 2012 20:24:31 GMT
Yaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyyyy!!!!!!!!!
That's all.
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Moon
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Post by Moon on Nov 11, 2012 15:40:16 GMT
I've struggled with hotspots all weekend, and have put it down to my impatience with oxidising with a lighter, as I don't think I've been doing it fully. After another failed attempt this morning I went into town and picked up a chef's torch from Robert Dyas for £13, refillable with lighter butane cans. www.robertdyas.co.uk/P~153199~Kitchen-Craft-Cooks-Blow-TorchI could have got it cheaper online, but I wanted it NOW. So much quicker than a lighter, it's made a chore a lot more pleasurable, and coupled with this advice on rolling wicks ukvapers.org/Thread-How-to-roll-super-tight-wicks-read-this?highlight=Wick , which I was also struggling with making small enough, my wicks are now delightful. However, even after using the blowtorch I'm still getting hotspots, but on the positive side my crème brûlées have come out beautifully. |
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Moon
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Post by Moon on Nov 9, 2012 22:58:57 GMT
I mostly use a Bolt or a Lavatube and tend to hold them in a loose fist, pushing the button with the button with the inside of my index finger around the middle knuckle, or hold it a bit higher and use the tip of my middle finger.
More like squeezing the button than pushing it down on it, really, as I find it more comfortable and get less strain, especially when chaining in the evening.
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