clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jun 8, 2011 7:08:40 GMT
I do the same as grizwald - push the centre pin out, solder the wire, then put the pin back.
Use an good iron with a fine tip, preferably a temperature-controlled solder station. Clean and tin the parts before joining them.
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clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jun 4, 2011 22:24:04 GMT
Thanks for clearing that up.
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clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jun 4, 2011 22:21:14 GMT
Thanks guys
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clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jun 4, 2011 18:17:37 GMT
Anyone know a UK supplier that carries 510 battery extenders? I need one that's between 10 and 20mm long, and has an air passage all the way through it. I'm planning to fit the extender into a tank end cap, sealing a carto to the extender using an o-ring inside the tank.
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clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jun 4, 2011 11:24:40 GMT
Thanks Chrissie.
Been lurking for a few weeks, and finally got round to registering.
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clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jun 3, 2011 20:36:05 GMT
Just to confirm:
You've removed the mouthpiece cap and o-ring from the top of the clearo, then removed the tube and the silicon cap that goes around the atomiser coil. You then remove the top cap from the tank, and feed the atomiser in from the bottom, pulling the wicks through inside the tank. Push the connector up inside the tank - it should go in fairly easily until you get as far as the knurled section. Put the battery connector onto the tabletop, and press down on the top of the tank. The connector should snap firmly into the tank end cap.
Refit the silicon cap to the atomiser end, making sure that the wires fit inside the small grooves. Fit the top cap, fill the tank through the tiny holes, and refit the silicon o-ring.
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clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jun 3, 2011 20:27:32 GMT
Thanks for the info.
I'll give it a go if I can make a tool to cut the o-ring groove inside the end caps.
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clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jun 3, 2011 19:30:21 GMT
The ones I got were about 15mm too short. Tank and clearos came from 2 different places, so it's basically my fault! Hopefully you got the right ones, but it seems to be a real minefield. I've been told that you need to use CE2 XL clearos, and that they need to be the latest version that has a white or translucent o-ring at the bottom. Ones with a black o-ring leak.
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clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jun 3, 2011 19:23:43 GMT
Thanks. One at each end between the carto tube and the cap, and another at each end to seal the cap to the tank tube?
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clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jun 3, 2011 19:17:48 GMT
I tried to use my new (to me) Arry tank for the first time today without any luck - I've got the wrong clearos! The bottom, threaded, part will push into the tank OK, but they are way too short - didn't realise that there were two different lengths.
The small clear o-ring at the base slides in OK, and the metal part goes in with a firm push. How far do you get with yours? I take it you are pushing the top part into the bottom cap, and feeding the whole lot through.
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clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jun 3, 2011 19:03:48 GMT
I've got a secondhand Arry clearo tank and a box of clearos. Unfortunately they are the wrong ones - too short!
I'm in two minds whether to order another box of the correct clearos, or modify the tank to fit cartos (I've got a lathe).
Can anyone tell me - does the carto tank use o-rings to seal the end caps to the carto tube, or does it just rely on the tube being a tight fit?
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