clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jul 5, 2011 16:47:04 GMT
Thanks, and I'll add you to the list.
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clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jul 5, 2011 16:36:17 GMT
It's a co-op design, so not for profit. I'll be making a few, just charging for time and materials. It'll probably come as a kit of parts, rather than assembled and ready to go. I'll include the custom-made parts, leaving the buyer to source a couple of common parts, and put it together.
I've just posted one to the co-designer (Christophe) for testing. If he's happy, I'll make a couple more, and figure out pricing. One thing I need to do is find another source for the terminals - seems I bought the supplier's entire stock! They are sold as RC plane parts - quick links for connecting pushrods to servos on small foamies.
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clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jul 5, 2011 15:16:06 GMT
Maybe not simple, but just a little bit of maths needed.
All the atomising devices that I've tried seem to work best at around 8 watts. Watts is voltage squared divided by resistance.
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clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jul 5, 2011 15:10:14 GMT
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clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jul 5, 2011 14:59:42 GMT
I wonder if you damaged the filler inside the carto? The wadding should prevent leakage, but only if it's completely filling the space between the metal tube and the central air tube/coil. If you snagged it with the drill, it'll leak. It's also possible that the swarf (metal chips from drilling) is bridging the gap inside, making it leak. Best to cut your losses and start again with a fresh carto.
I use cartos inside my own Arry-style tanks, and never have any leakage. This style of tank should work just as well, although it's harder to fill. I struggled to make the holes using a small nail - the nail just bent! What I do now is punch the tube with an automatic centre punch (spring-loaded device that doesn't need hitting with a hammer), then drill the hole with a 1mm tungsten carbide drill bit. TC bits make light work of the stainless tube, but they are very brittle. Not a problem as the broken stub drills just as well, and won't go too far into the wadding.
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clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jun 22, 2011 15:00:57 GMT
In all of this, though, I maintain that if 90% of e-cig users are aiming to quit (and, by the way, the official definition of "quit" means off nicotine altogether - the check is by continine level test), then the rest of us have to go with that. However, it's my belief that 90% of users do not want to get off the nicotine - they want to avoid inhaling smoke with all its dangers, but they don't want to quit nicotine. You must mix with a different type of person to me, as I feel that the opposite is true of the general public - 90% see e-cigs as a quitting device. In fact, every single person that I've spoken to about e-cigs congratulated me on giving up, and asked when I felt I'd be able to stop vaping. I had to explain that I had no intention of stopping, I enjoyed it more than ciggies, but I didn't want to die a painful and early death. I then had to explain that nicotine wasn't the evil drug that they think it is, and that it isn't the nicotine in cigarettes that gives people chest and lung problems. Totally different, percentage-wise, on e-cig forums, though. Not sure where I stand on the regulation debate. Classification as a tobacco product makes it easy for the State to tax the juice and hardware, while pharmaceutical classification means masses of red tape and endless delays for new products. However, it's easy to get prescription drugs through the back door, with or without a script. I don't think that the hardware would be affected at all - are syringes and ointment applicators subject to regulation? Pharma classification may be bad for "off the shelf" starter products, and many vendors would lose out on juice sales, but it probably wouldn't affect the hardened vaper, who already buys mail order. They would just have to go direct to China for their nicotine base. I don't feel that the government will do anything, until tax revenues from tobacco drop at a faster rate than they save money on health care. In fact, financially, the state would be better off if everyone smoked - save a fortune on pensions and geriatric care if we all died early! I don't suppose the tobacco companies are that bothered, either - they have huge markets to tap in the "third world"for traditional products. Nothing stopping them switching their marketing and sales efforts from ciggies to juice in developed markets. Don't they already supply the raw nicotine?
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clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jun 20, 2011 19:43:22 GMT
I got some HC caramel and RY4 a few weeks ago. Not pleasant, and very weak. Not had any problems with F'Arts and TPA flavours.
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clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jun 20, 2011 4:56:52 GMT
I filled the tank on Saturday evening, them left it sitting until Sunday afternoon - no leaks. I've been using if since then. Works fine. This particular carto works best for me at 4.25v. It's the first one I've used from a different supplier. The previous batch were best at 4.1v.
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clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jun 19, 2011 4:56:14 GMT
I've been wondering for a while what a 5v battery actually was, as there isn't a "5v per cell" battery chemistry. Looking at the pics in the first link, it appears to be 4 stacked 1.2v NiMH cells - neat. Something to be aware of - NiMH cells peak at just over 1.5v, so these packs are actually capable of supplying just over 6v. The peak voltage you get out depends on the what the charger puts in, though.
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clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jun 18, 2011 18:56:37 GMT
I'll be fitting a foil switch to my next VV mod - the foil arrived too late for this one. I like your idea of using the membrane from a remote control - it'll give some tactile feedback, useful for vaping in low light conditions.
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clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jun 18, 2011 11:10:04 GMT
Thanks - just hope it actually vapes OK!
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clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jun 18, 2011 9:28:27 GMT
Here's what I built in the end (thanks to Lee for giving me the idea of using this case - he said "Nothing in Maplins to fit your specs?" - I took his comment literally!): Plastic spectacle case, with internal home-made carto tank and custom mouthpiece. The various case fittings and bulkheads are made from 2mm styrene sheet, "glued" in place with Plastic Weld solvent. The tank lifts out for carto replacement, but can be filled in situ via the small screw. Two 800mAH 2-cell LiPos in parallel, voltage regulator, LiPo low-voltage warning LEDs and voltmeter. It all works, but I need to charge the battery and fill the tank. Should get time to try it later. I've got some balance/charge connectors on their way from China, which will let me tidy up the power wiring, and make charging a lot easier. I've also got a mini rocker switch, which I'll add at the same time, as well as a pico fuse. If I get on with this mod, I'll build another. I'll use a nicer case colour next time, and fix the parts permanently, rather than use hot glue.
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Post by clockworks on Jun 17, 2011 11:06:09 GMT
Why not just fit a tank to the cartos? - best of both worlds for the carto fan (myself included).
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Post by clockworks on Jun 17, 2011 8:18:21 GMT
Yes, total length between the connectors, so you add a bit more to go inside the connectors.
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Post by clockworks on Jun 15, 2011 23:44:43 GMT
Just to clarify (or confuse further!):
The resistance is set by the effective length of the wire, and the cross-sectional area of the wire. I say effective length, because tightly packed coils will short out. If two coils are touching, the effective length is reduced by one coil.
0.20 Kanthal wire has a resistance of 43.8ohms per metre. To get a 1.5ohm coil, you need to use a 34.25mm length of wire (1000/43.8 x 1.5). Note that this is the length of exposed wire between the terminals. The wire clamped inside the terminal is shorted by the terminal itself, and doesn't count.
How you wind the wire doesn't affect the resistance, as long as it doesn't short back to itself. A straight piece of wire 34.25mm long will have the same resistance as a 34.25mm length with two big coils, or 3 medium coils, or 4 small coils, or five tiny coils.
The layout of the coils around the wick affects how the heat is transferred to the juice, and thus the amount and quality of vapour produced. This is where experimentation comes into play. I'd guess that a longer, looser, coiled section would work better than a short,tight, coiled section with longer ends. That's only a guess, mind.
Thinner wire has a higher resistance. In theory resistance is inversely proportional to the cross-sectional area, or the square of the radius of the cross-section. 0.13 wire has more than twice the resistance of 0.20 wire. I say in theory, because the figures don't work out exactly, but are pretty close. I guess maybe skin effect plays a part? Whatever, the quoted ohms per metre lets you work out how much wire to use to get the required resistance - 1.5ohms needs:
34.25mm of 0.20 wire 22.5mm of 0.16 wire 15mm of .013 wire
So, 3 different ways of getting the same 1.5ohm resistance. I guess the 0.13 wire would be too short to turn into a coil, so your choice is between 0.16 and 0.20.
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