SteveF
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Post by SteveF on Nov 6, 2015 22:41:19 GMT
I think rule of thumb is the higher the ohm reading of the coil, the lower wattage setting you need to go on your mod. With a 1ohm coil at 75watts you might need a new set of lungs I've occasionally swapped atties and forgot to change the wattage......... quite often going from atlantis tanks to nautilus, and a 1.8ohm nautilus coil at 30+watts is no laughing matter....... not for me anyway lol I'm so pleased that I'm not the only one that does that, my usual was taking a dripper off and putting a subtank on in the morning. The 70w intended for a dual clapton is not appreciated when it fires the tiny coil in an RBA. Much more carefull now as I've pretty much gone over to TC and only have kanthal coils in drippers, really don't fancy a hit of hot nickel or titanium.
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SteveF
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Last Online Apr 16, 2023 14:41:34 GMT
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Post by SteveF on Nov 6, 2015 22:01:10 GMT
The Scream is a month old and I've opened the first steeped 30ml bottle. Absolutely bloomin' luscious thanks for sharing
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SteveF
Super Member
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Last Online Apr 16, 2023 14:41:34 GMT
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Post by SteveF on Nov 6, 2015 21:52:00 GMT
The resistance should be etched on the coil head. www.joyetech.com/product/cl-ni-head-for-mouth-inhale0.25 is for mouth to lung, 0.20 is for direct lung inhale higher resistace coil will take more power to heat. 70w time will be limited by what your 18650 battery can supply Thankyou so much for that. Tbh I tried 75w and it just tasted burnt unless I turned the temp down.. Mouth to lung? no thank you, Ill stick to my 0.2 haha, they do sell some CL 1.0 ohm coils that say they are for higher power, would that be better for 75w? its weird, before I upgraded the firmware, 20-30w seemed to produce hardly any vapour, but now at 20-30 it seems as if it is on 60w on the previous firmware Thank again And I thought that (About the 0.5 difference) funny though, obviously does make a difference x the firmware upgrade seems to be an all round update, my evic mini is working a little better with the v2.0, the titanium setting is still not 100%, but i'm keeping to Ni200 with it for now. the max recommended wattage is 60 for both joyetech Ni coils, temperature settings are different though.
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SteveF
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Last Online Apr 16, 2023 14:41:34 GMT
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Post by SteveF on Nov 6, 2015 21:27:02 GMT
The resistance should be etched on the coil head. www.joyetech.com/product/cl-ni-head-for-mouth-inhale0.25 is for mouth to lung, 0.20 is for direct lung inhale higher resistace coil will take more power to heat. 70w time will be limited by what your 18650 battery can supply I wouldn't have thought 0.05ohm of a difference would be all that noticeable when vaped. you need to scroll down the Joyetech linky page, the 0.25 has a narrow coil
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SteveF
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Post by SteveF on Nov 6, 2015 21:14:11 GMT
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SteveF
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Post by SteveF on Nov 6, 2015 21:07:19 GMT
The resistance should be etched on the coil head. www.joyetech.com/product/cl-ni-head-for-mouth-inhale0.25 is for mouth to lung, 0.20 is for direct lung inhale higher resistace coil will take more power to heat. 70w time will be limited by what your 18650 battery can supply
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SteveF
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Post by SteveF on Nov 6, 2015 20:51:11 GMT
whoops......
4) which coil?
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SteveF
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Post by SteveF on Nov 6, 2015 20:22:30 GMT
hi and welcome. Subtank... subtank.... subtank.....don't ya just love em? Bane of my life from time to time. few things to check 1) juice VG not too high? over 70% can cause some slow wicking problems. If you are hitting your new vape a little on the heavy side it can end up drying out. I have experienced this from time to time 2) wick/coil primed and left for at least 5 minutes? Wicking cure is the 'jab with pointy stick' method use a needle to fluff up the wick that you can see in the holes on the side of the coil. 3) sweet juice, we all love it but it can be a coil gunker, combine that with high VG, the notorious poor wicking and 5) the RBA is very easy to use, coils can be purchased ready made or you could buy some 0.45mm kanthal and make your own. Wicking is as with all rebuildables paramount but its a little more forgiving than many and once mastered saves some of your sanity as well as cash.
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SteveF
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Post by SteveF on Nov 6, 2015 0:11:35 GMT
250ml nicotine SDNA200 EVIC mini UD Bellus Billow V2 nano
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SteveF
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Post by SteveF on Nov 6, 2015 0:05:27 GMT
I have a Zencote P3 in gunmetal, kind of fell by the wayside but I think it will still be operating normally long after my other mods die. Issues, minor but niggly
the P3 connection is an utter pain if you use the 510 adapter. the centre thread sticks and comes away with the attached to the atty and it's best to turn the beauty ring over to stop that from sticking too.
Dirt, the tube threads are crud magnets and it can knock 10% off the battery and 10 to 20% off the IQ meter it's own efficiency and connection quality reader. But once spotlessly clean it can be a swine to get undone. A normal sized stainless atty makes it top heavy, stand it up... it falls over again and again. the best tank I have put on it is a Goblin mini, it makes it manageable even at full length with 18650s.
the menu is a bit naff as is the single button, adjusting settings is a slow process.
If I were to go for another Provari the radius would be at the top of my list. extra buttons, fewer connections and a those extra watts.
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SteveF
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Post by SteveF on Nov 5, 2015 21:49:53 GMT
updated to V2.0, 0.2 coil now reads 0.18 which is bloomin close to the SteamEngines wire wizards 0.181 for 7.5 turns time to try the subtank again......
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SteveF
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Post by SteveF on Nov 5, 2015 21:17:54 GMT
ok, 2 infuriating hours later......... it still wont read accurately in Ti-TC mode with a kanger subtank mini, 2 rbas, 3 coils, 3 wicks. it reads and locks a subtank rba with a 0.08 ni200 coil and a 0.12 ni200 coil......in Ti-mode Goblin mini chucks clouds at 14w with a single 8 turn 0.5mm x 2mm Ti coil @ 0.20 ohms......I'll settle for that! yes its an eastern purchase, $35 with another in the post
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SteveF
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Post by SteveF on Nov 5, 2015 18:51:02 GMT
Does it really matter what the mod reads as the base resistance as long as it reads the subsequent rise in the resistance and thereby limits temperature? sorry for the late reply the predictive text on my phone was being a pain. yes it does matter. titanium coil is 0.159 >0.168 dependant on room temperature, reads this on IPV D2 in Ni and Ti, Sigelei 150tc in Ni mode, reads 0.16 on ohm meter and reads 0.16 on Evic mini in Ni. Once in ti mode the Evic reads 0.23 > 0.25 and will only lock at this, it asks if it is same or new coil, select new and it still reads 0.23 > 0.25. When I fire the coil, a 0.16 ohm coil at a base setting of 0.25.....TC cuts in instantly because it essentially it registers a dry wick. Then when I allow it to return to room temperature, remove the tank, remove the resistance lock, refit the tank and it asks if its the same or a new coil, I select new coil, base comes in at 0.23 again. Now the Evil evic moment.......it goes silly in ti mode, TC doesnt cut in and it throws a mech moment, no step down like a D2 in power mode . Set at 17w with the temp at 190c it gave the dry hit of the century, the cotton singed almost instantly. Turned down to 10w and 100c it still vaped like a big coiled dripper. I'm genuinely pleased that others are getting Ti mode to work but for me its definitely not.
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SteveF
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Post by SteveF on Nov 5, 2015 10:54:30 GMT
thanks for the replies, don't know whats going on, like I said the subtanks work with Ni200 down to 0.06 but the evic just won't play ball with titanium, even the dripper I'm using right now is reading 0.25 when my other mods read 0.207/0.209. convenience really as time is so much easier to use.
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SteveF
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Last Online Apr 16, 2023 14:41:34 GMT
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Post by SteveF on Nov 5, 2015 6:40:43 GMT
yep upgraded the firmware and it must be a ti-mode bug as it reads the coils correctly in ni200 and power. Damn I was just starting to like it.
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